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2009 KTM 690 Enduro R – Stalling Issues etc.: The Ongoing Saga of Happiness, Torment and Punishment

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Greetings boys and girls, I recently became the proud owner of my very own KTM! A 2009 690 Enduro R (sitting just under 10k miles). I have lusted after this bike for many years and finally had the extra cash to pick one up. However, it hasn’t all been good. In the very short period of time I’ve owned it, it has left me stranded 3 times!

I have been playing catch up on all the previous owners maintenance that he had “deferred” and in the process, trying to accomplish the mods needed to make this rig more reliable. I’ve got to say that when it is running, it is probably the most fun thing on two wheels. It eases the sting a bit for when it breaks down. Anyways, I digress… lets get down to the current issue at hand.

Current Problem: Click here to see a video of what it does

Once the bike is fully warm, usually after I have been riding around for 1-2 hours, the bike will all of a sudden start to sputter (as if it is suffering from a fuel cut) and eventually after a few moments it will die altogether. The problem can be more quickly brought on if I am riding around town in stop and go traffic in the hotter part of the day. The bike will start right back up again but will generally sputter and die again within 10-30 seconds if you continue to ride around. Or if you start it after it initially dying and let it idle, it can idle for up to a minute before it dies on its own. The main thing to take away from this is that it only does this when it is really hot. (usually 4 bars on the gauge, that’s as hot as it ever gets with the fan switch mod) I should also mention that there is no blinking FI light.

Secondary problem: Sometimes when you start the bike the dash will flash the wheel size measurement on and off: “LENGTH 1870” and a couple other symbols for a few seconds to half a minute before it displays the speed and all the regular information. I don’t think this is related to the issues but I thought I’d make mention of it.

Current mods and notable part replacements:

*Akro Slip on

*K&N drop-in air filter

*Power Commander V with tune for pipe and intake (from Rottweiler)

*CA Cycle works Fuel pump (less than 200 miles on it… the OEM one died a couple days after I bought the bike)

*New in tank fuel filter (bike does not have an inline filter)

*New KTM injector (less than 100 miles on it… old one dribbled fuel causing hard starting after sitting)

*RR Manual Cam Chain Tensioner

*New NGK spark plug

*KTM Twins Low temp fan switch

*-15 Exhaust Rocker

*Valves recently lashed and are in perfect spec

*All the emission components are removed

What I’ve done so far:

*Completely disconnected the Power commander from the bike and ran the bike in stock ecu config- the problem still occurs

*Checked all electrical connections and took apart the bike and went over the entire wire loom - no defects noted

*Checked the battery with a multi meter with the bike off and running, battery appears perfectly healthy both static and running

*Swapped back to the old leaking injector – problem still occurs

*Disconnected the tip over sensor – this causes an FI light, the problem still occurs

*Disabled the kickstand sensor with a dongle – the problem still occurs

*Replaced the voltage regulator with a nice mosfet unit, didnt fix the problem but the regulator runs so cool now!

*Put a meter on the ignition coil and spark plug connector, both of these values read almost dead nuts in the middle of the specified range

*Put a meter on the stator connector, the manual says the resistance should be less than or equal to 1 ohm at 68 degrees F. Both my measurements read 2.1 ohms, but its also about 80-85 degrees in my garage... so I'm not sure if this is acceptable or not?

Possible ideas:

*Throttle Body Sensors/ blade gears - This is something I'm hesitant to get into since if I mess with it and take it to the dealer I wouldn't want them to blame me for messing with it. I only say this because my dealer told me that KTM has warrantied complete throttle bodies for 690's before- even on older bikes like mine.

*Fuel pump – God forbid this would be the issue since I just replaced this… but it seems like the bike is suffering a fuel cut and I know that they tend to have issues when they get hot… but every time this problem has occurred I’ve had at least 2 gallons of gas in the tank… I also triple checked my hose routing when I installed the new fuel pump/ filter and made sure it didn’t kink as it went in.

*ECU failure - just grabbing at strands here... maybe its fudgin up when it gets hot for some reason.
_________________________________________________

Sorry for making yet another 690 thread… Thanks for reading this, ANY input is appreciated. I will try to keep this organized as I remember to add things so it is somewhat easier to read over. THANK YOU

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I have read a lot of threads over the years and can't recall a fix for you stalling with the heat relationship. Typical stalls at a stop then you just restart and go are often caused by air box mods.  I would get TuneECU and see if there are any fault codes. But I would guess if there are faults the FI light would indicate it.

Speedo problems are a know issue on the 690. There is a big thread on ADVrider. Some have taken them apart and fixed the fault others just replace it. 

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OK, stalls when hot but only after a "soaking heat", after running reliably for some long time. That is a tough one...

You've replaced a lot of parts. What was the source of the new fuel pump? KTM, or aftermarket? Used pump, or new? I think we know these pumps tend to fail when they get hot. I think it is the ECU that decides the pump should cycle off-to-on-to-off, dependent on fuel pressure. So, if the fuel pressure switch / sensor is broken, perhaps the pump is on, full time? You would not know it, but the pump would get hot.

New parts also have "infant mortality", it's not uncommon. Just 'cause the fuel pump is new, does not mean its gonna work out long term. My money is problem is somewhere in the fuel system, and these two causes are leaders.

Insure no blockage / kinks in the gas tank air vent outlet (dirt clogging vent inlet?). That could cause a very slow, long time interval, vapor lock.

Air mass sensor, in the airbox? Air temperature sensor? Failure of either of these would indicate an incorrect air mass setting for the fuel delivery? There is a common failure of the wire loom for these two sensors. The wrap that holds them to the frame eventually cuts the wires from the vibration.

The stator ohm reading would be a "red flag" for a battery condition. Have you put a voltmeter across the battery? What is the voltage? (Mine reads 14.1 - 14.3 VDC reliably, even at idle). EDIT: This could be a red flag anyway. I have seen stators fail when they get hot (hot oil bath "cooling", remember), and appear to be OK when at room temp. However, if the battery voltage is "good" at *all* times (when just starting out, and also when cycle stalls), then this becomes less of a flag.

That's enough for now, I think. Post back further when you have more.

 

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My 690 recently stopped letting my start it if I just push the button. If I take the seat off  and push on the starter relay with a bit of pressure, then hit the start button it forces right up. And suggestions on what may be causing this. The starter relay is brand new, as I thought maybe the existing one was bad.

 

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Posted (edited)

@fdme, did you managed to resolve the stalling issue? I'm asking because i have the exact same problem with my 2008 690 enduro - it stalls at idle only when engine is hot, in stop and go trafic. Compared to what you did to your bike, my fuel pump and fuel filter are not changed since i own this bike (fuel filter replacement is next thing to do), but i'm wondering if this problem is fuel pump related, because after engine stalls it starts right up, when i press starter button.
 I also changed stock rectifier with an mosfet unit but i am confused about the charging voltage values. Arent't mosfet units suppose to supply a steady charging voltage from idle up to 4-5000 rpm, lights on, fan on? My readings are inconsistent starting form ~14.3V at idle or at 5000rpm (engine warm but not at operating temperature) to 13.6V at idle and 13.9V at 5000rpm when engine is hot and fan is running. I've checked the stator according to service manual and readings are ok.

Edited by dan_m

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On 8/8/2019 at 12:15 AM, dan_m said:

@fdme, did you managed to resolve the stalling issue? I'm asking because i have the exact same problem with my 2008 690 enduro - it stalls at idle only when engine is hot, in stop and go trafic. Compared to what you did to your bike, my fuel pump and fuel filter are not changed since i own this bike (fuel filter replacement is next thing to do), but i'm wondering if this problem is fuel pump related, because after engine stalls it starts right up, when i press starter button.
 I also changed stock rectifier with an mosfet unit but i am confused about the charging voltage values. Arent't mosfet units suppose to supply a steady charging voltage from idle up to 4-5000 rpm, lights on, fan on? My readings are inconsistent starting form ~14.3V at idle or at 5000rpm (engine warm but not at operating temperature) to 13.6V at idle and 13.9V at 5000rpm when engine is hot and fan is running. I've checked the stator according to service manual and readings are ok.

With my 2010 I found that if the bike was hesitating at idle there was a clogged filter or clogged injector.  if it does that at idle and and also bogs at high rpm rising when the bike is hot and starts hesitating or sputtering and possibly dies, then will restart in 20 mins and run fine it’s likely time for a new pump. The you also do filters and probably an injector.

 

If it’s not bogging when hot at high rpm then it’s probably not your pump, yet, but can soon be if you don’t change clogged filters as that can kill your pump.  You can try to get the injector cleaned properly at a race shop. You should open up your bike and swap the filters out at the minimum  if your bike takes that Mahle filter you can find them fairly easily as they’re in some domestic car like a mustang or something if I remember and you can find those Oteker sp? High pressure fuel line clamps from McMaster Carr  

 

When the fuel systems all clean again it will run great. These bikes get clogged up fairly easily and if you don’t swap out filters fairly often then can start to run finicky. There’s an Aussie company that makes a filter sock that you can put your whole pump into or that cleanable Golan filter. The sock protects your pump from the dreaded KTM black tank coating that gradually  breaks down in gas and starts clogging things up. 

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