AZRoadRunner

DR650S or DRZ400S -- which do you suggest?

30 posts in this topic

If it over heats too much, just wrap some copper tube around the head and the cylinder so that it sits in the valleys between cooling fins.  Then pump cold water through that copper coil whenever the temps get too high.  If its good enough for moonshiners, its good enough for dirt bikers! 

If all else fails, get one of these and attach it on top of the engine with the trigger sitting inside of the valve cover.  Orient the bottle so that the exhaust lobe on the camshaft presses the spray bottle's handle every time it rotates.  Thats actually what I do.  I fill the bottle half way up with water and half ice before I hit the desert.

 

  

breezie-bladeless-handheld-misting-fan-xl.jpg

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OK . . .   I think the shark has just been jumped. 

Thanks for the replies.  I will update this thread no matter what bike I buy (or don't buy).  I'm going to try to buy used (Craigslist) so it might be a month or two before a decent one shows up within a reasonable driving distance.

 

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OK . . .   I think the shark has just been jumped. 
Thanks for the replies.  I will update this thread no matter what bike I buy (or don't buy).  I'm going to try to buy used (Craigslist) so it might be a month or two before a decent one shows up within a reasonable driving distance.
 
If you end up with a DR650 don't go to the ProCycle website, they have so much chit for that bike you'll go completely broke.
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17 hours ago, HeavyRotation said:

If you end up with a DR650 don't go to the ProCycle website, they have so much chit for that bike you'll go completely broke.

I bookmarked this.  Thanks.

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I'm going to look at a 2015 DR650 tomorrow morning.  It has 165 miles on it.   From what I've seen in service manuals it looks like the valves are "inspected and adjusted if necessary" at the 600 mile service.  Is this really done by a dealer?  If I purchase this bike I was just hoping to change the oil and filter and adjust/lube the chain -- and that's about it

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You can do it yourself in about half an hour. The tools from Procycle make it a lot easier but aren't absolutely required. You do want to check it then though, by then the valve seats will be fully seated in the head. You probably won't have to do them again for 20,000 miles though it's good insurance to check them occasionally.

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6 hours ago, nobade said:

You can do it yourself in about half an hour. The tools from Procycle make it a lot easier but aren't absolutely required. You do want to check it then though, by then the valve seats will be fully seated in the head. You probably won't have to do them again for 20,000 miles though it's good insurance to check them occasionally.

Thanks for the tip.  I looked in the service manual and watched a YouTube video and it doesn't seem too awful.  Worst part is having to remove the side panels, the seat, and the gas tank.

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That's the easy part. Just a few screws to remove. A couple of tips - either get the purpose made feeler gauges from Procycle or buy some long feeler gauge stock in the right sizes that you can put a bend in. And be real careful taking the inspection plugs out of the sidecover. Don't tighten them hardly at all when you put them back in or you'll be buying new ones the next time you try to remove them.

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3 minutes ago, nobade said:

That's the easy part. Just a few screws to remove. A couple of tips - either get the purpose made feeler gauges from Procycle or buy some long feeler gauge stock in the right sizes that you can put a bend in. And be real careful taking the inspection plugs out of the sidecover. Don't tighten them hardly at all when you put them back in or you'll be buying new ones the next time you try to remove them.

Well, this deal fell thru.  But thanks again for the tips.

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