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My new, or new to me, 2000 CR250

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IMO,  Hondas quality cant be beat , but the $$ for OEM parts adds up quick and gets expensive. But if money is no object  then Honda OEM is the way to go for 99% of parts. 


I agree. Honda’s quality is second to none, but unfortunately for me, I’m a stay at home dad with a small budget. I wish I could buy Honda parts for everything I need, but the reality is, I can’t afford it! I just started fixing and reselling bikes for a little hobby, but this is by far the most in depth I’ve gone. I love it! My problem is I fix the broke bikes then never want to sell any of them!
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3 minutes ago, 2smokinCR said:

 


I agree. Honda’s quality is second to none, but unfortunately for me, I’m a stay at home dad with a small budget. I wish I could buy Honda parts for everything I need, but the reality is, I can’t afford it! I just started fixing and reselling bikes for a little hobby, but this is by far the most in depth I’ve gone. I love it! My problem is I fix the broke bikes then never want to sell any of them!

 

Yes I'm a collector also, I buy and  never sell :facepalm:

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The cardboard case with the bolts sticking out of it was great. I did that before also. Nice touch

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The cardboard case with the bolts sticking out of it was great. I did that before also. Nice touch


Just trying to stay organized. All the videos I’ve seen the guys just toss everything into one bowl and it gave me anxiety just watching them haha. I have to be more organized then that!!

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Engine almost back together. Waiting on new clutch kit. Everything else went back fairly easy. Had a little issue with the shifter drum, but figured it out. Starting to look like an engine again!IMG_4657.JPGIMG_4658.JPGIMG_4662.JPGIMG_4663.JPGIMG_4661.JPG

Every bearing and seal has been replaced and everything else gone through. Pretty stoked to start getting her back together.

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Congrats on diving right in there...that's quite an accomplishment.

From your pics, those finger marks indented into the inner clutch hub (not the basket), at 3 o'clock position;

IMG_4662.JPG

will eventually cause your clutch metal plates to stick.

There's  grooves on the back flange of the hub (that mates to the 1st clutch friction disc). That surface should be very flat, mirror like. At some point, this clutch hub will need replacing.

IMG_4663.JPG

 

while you're at it, check the condition of your clutch cushions.

Get a penny or a dime, wedge it between the basket's gear and the idler gear meshing it. then try to rotate the clutch basket.

If it moves, like video below, the clutch cushions (rubber pads hidden in the back side between the gear and the basket) are shot. You can leave it like that, but it's real hard to find neutral, and shifting is notchy and stiff, and when you stick bike in gear, it'll lurch forward. If you're going to keep the bike, plan on replacing clutch basket down the road. They're about $250 new, not cheap. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by jeddclampette

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They  dont look to bad to me at all, i have seem mine way worse and brought them back with some File till they are smooth. You can file them until they are not in spec. Anymore,, check you service manual for specs. Just watch the angle of the fingers on the basket and keep the file at that angle, and if you look at the very end of the fingers they have a different angle to follow. :thumbsup:

I have filed mine down a few times and still working fine for me on my 1994 and my 2001 CR250's.

I hammer my clutch, and I'm good at fingering it , at least that's what my girl says  :eek:  :banana:

Edited by Orange Crush 500

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File it down smooth, till it not in spec. Anymore, check you service manual for specs.
I have filed mine down a few times and still working fine for me on my 1994 and my 2001 CR250's


Just file the flat engraved until smooth? I’ll check the specs first.

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Congrats on diving right in there...that's quite an accomplishment.
From your pics, those finger marks indented into the inner clutch hub (not the basket), at 3 o'clock position;
IMG_4662.thumb.JPG.7ced8ceb0838033b97012f7bb5128e16.JPG
will eventually cause your clutch metal plates to stick.
There's  grooves on the back flange of the hub (that mates to the 1st clutch friction disc). That surface should be very flat, mirror like. At some point, this clutch hub will need replacing.
IMG_4663.thumb.JPG.850ddd5de370fc91dc5dee7ed7d37238.JPG
 
while you're at it, check the condition of your clutch cushions.
Get a penny or a dime, wedge it between the basket's gear and the idler gear meshing it. then try to rotate the clutch basket.
If it moves, like video below, the clutch cushions (rubber pads hidden in the back side between the gear and the basket) are shot. You can leave it like that, but it's real hard to find neutral, and shifting is notchy and stiff, and when you stick bike in gear, it'll lurch forward. If you're going to keep the bike, plan on replacing clutch basket down the road. They're about $250 new, not cheap. 
 
 
 
 
 
 


Thanks for the help man. I’ll take any and all advice. I’ll look at the outer clutch basket play and see if I can file the inner flat service down smooth again. And if not, I’ll get another basket. I’m getting new plates and springs as well anyway so it might not hurt.

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Just for future reference, be very careful when u put the cylinder back on that u dont misalign the powervalve crow foot. Its easy to do, trust me, i know from learning the hard way

Sent from my VS835 using ThumperTalk mobile app

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Go to this first link below, then scroll down to 93 CR250. This is Dogger 315's precise rebuilt for these types engines. Honda has very specific measurements for the installation of the crank seals. Each link will show the next step in engine assembly. Use these links with your Honda manual and everything should go well. I know OEM is outside your budget but it is superior to aftermarket. 

I just did a build my 94 CR 250 Wide Ratio last year. From 92 to 2001 these motors are almost identical. Generally, 92 to 96 cylinders require running the dome piston and 97 to 2001 require a flat top piston. So, for whatever year cylinder you select, select the piston for that year as well. However on 1997 forward, the head stay mount on the head is different so 96 or prior head will not work on the 97 to 2001s. 

http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/f-235/dirt-bike-restoration-index-53651/

 

See this thread on 1997-2001 flat top pistons and powervalve, especially post #5.

http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/f-31/cr250-powervalve-swap-99-into-2001-a-63255/

 

Here is a link to my 94 CR 250 Wide Ratio Build.  I hope this helps you out good luck!

http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22310&page=12

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Go to this first link below, then scroll down to 93 CR250. This is Dogger 315's precise rebuilt for these types engines. Honda has very specific measurements for the installation of the crank seals. Each link will show the next step in engine assembly. Use these links with your Honda manual and everything should go well. I know OEM is outside your budget but it is superior to aftermarket. 
I just did a build my 94 CR 250 Wide Ratio last year. From 92 to 2001 these motors are almost identical. Generally, 92 to 96 cylinders require running the dome piston and 97 to 2001 require a flat top piston. So, for whatever year cylinder you select, select the piston for that year as well. However on 1997 forward, the head stay mount on the head is different so 96 or prior head will not work on the 97 to 2001s. 
http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/f-235/dirt-bike-restoration-index-53651/
 
See this thread on 1997-2001 flat top pistons and powervalve, especially post #5.
http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/f-31/cr250-powervalve-swap-99-into-2001-a-63255/
 
Here is a link to my 94 CR 250 Wide Ratio Build.  I hope this helps you out good luck!
http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22310&page=12


Cool thanks man. Yeah I bought the manual and have gotten the deals pretty close to what they call for. I bought a micrometer so I can take the measurements. And I found a cylinder from a 2000 (my year) on eBay that had the power valves included already. It seems to fit good she I tested it, but I haven’t finished with the bottom so it’s not installed yet. I’m glad this website is here because I never would be known about the inner clutch basket being worn. Thanks y’all.

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The inside edges of the metal fingers on the clutch basket get grooved. And this will cause your fiber clutch plates to snag on the clutch basket fingers.  This is were the tabs on the clutch fiber plate slide along the fingers of the clutch basket as you engage and disengage the clutch. These fingers  need to be smooth. Here is a pic of a clutch basket, the fingers are the metal tabs sticking out. 

https://goo.gl/images/fauMpZ

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Go to this first link below, then scroll down to 93 CR250. This is Dogger 315's precise rebuilt for these types engines. Honda has very specific measurements for the installation of the crank seals. Each link will show the next step in engine assembly. Use these links with your Honda manual and everything should go well. I know OEM is outside your budget but it is superior to aftermarket. 
I just did a build my 94 CR 250 Wide Ratio last year. From 92 to 2001 these motors are almost identical. Generally, 92 to 96 cylinders require running the dome piston and 97 to 2001 require a flat top piston. So, for whatever year cylinder you select, select the piston for that year as well. However on 1997 forward, the head stay mount on the head is different so 96 or prior head will not work on the 97 to 2001s. 
http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/f-235/dirt-bike-restoration-index-53651/
 
See this thread on 1997-2001 flat top pistons and powervalve, especially post #5.
http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/f-31/cr250-powervalve-swap-99-into-2001-a-63255/
 
Here is a link to my 94 CR 250 Wide Ratio Build.  I hope this helps you out good luck!
http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22310&page=12


Should the pressure plate have almost a mirror finish on the underneath as well? Mine has a pretty decent groove in it.

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Just got the new inner clutch basket and pressure cap. Decided to get new since I’m spending all this time and effort, I’d rather do it right. Pictures don’t do the grooves justice. The second pic is the pressure cap. That one groove one it is deeeeep. Got a new clutch pack and springs as well. Hopefully get some time to get this engine buttoned up. IMG_4720.JPGIMG_4721.JPG

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Very nice. I installed a Radius x Auto Clutch with the Torque Drive Plate System and a Rekluse Basket on my 94 CR250 Wide Ratio. Included in the kit were steel basket sleeves to protect the clutch basket. You might give rekluse a call and price out a set and use them on your old basket. Look closely and you can see the U shaped sleeves on the basket. These sleeves would smooth up your clutch feel and cut the wear down on your basket.  

 

GjVvNM3m.jpg

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Very nice. I installed a Radius x Auto Clutch with the Torque Drive Plate System and a Rekluse Basket on my 94 CR250 Wide Ratio. Included in the kit were steel basket sleeves to protect the clutch basket. You might give rekluse a call and price out a set and use them on your old basket. Look closely and you can see the U shaped sleeves on the basket. These sleeves would smooth up your clutch feel and cut the wear down on your basket.  
 
GjVvNM3m.jpg


Nice man. I will definitely look into getting some sleeves. Looks like a great alternative to buying a new basket until necessary.

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Little more progress. I had forgotten one of the clutch pressure plate bolts was missing so one is on order. But the new clutch pack is in and clutch side cover back on with no issue. IMG_4739.JPGIMG_4740.JPG

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Bam! Got the new piston, cylinder, and cap on this morning. Stator and flywheel installed as well. Still waiting on the one clutch plate bolt then the engine will be done...I think. IMG_4744.JPGIMG_4746.JPGIMG_4747.JPG

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