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My new, or new to me, 2000 CR250

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Or just cut them at an angle. Did you put a fresh plug in AFTER it died and would not start? Either that or remove and clean the other one. BR8ES  Did you remember to take the choke off after it ran a while? These bikes are not designed to just sit there and idle too long. Blip the throttle but do not over-rev it.

Edited by Piney Woods

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Or just cut them at an angle. Did you put a fresh plug in AFTER it died and would not start? Either that or remove and clean the other one. BR8ES  Did you remember to take the choke off after it ran a while? These bikes are not designed to just sit there and idle too long. Blip the throttle but do not over-rev it.


I replaced the plug after it did run and it looked brand new still, but still replaced. I had forgotten to take the choke off when it was running, but I took it off after it died and it still didn’t start. I burped the throttle a few times. It I didn’t really have a chance to mess with the screws or anything to get it to idle correctly. I’m going to give her another go tomorrow and see what happens. I’ll keep y’all posted. Thanks again.

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Found my jetting specs. 6BEH1-75 needle 3rd clip, 32.5 PJ, #7 nozzle, #5 slide and 410-420 main depending on temps. Never a fouled plug in 17 years and only change main when it gets cold, nothing else. Current plug has been in over six years.

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Found my jetting specs. 6BEH1-75 needle 3rd clip, 32.5 PJ, #7 nozzle, #5 slide and 410-420 main depending on temps. Never a fouled plug in 17 years and only change main when it gets cold, nothing else. Current plug has been in over six years.

Awesome info. Thanks piney. I’m not sure the first plug fouled though. I think something might’ve gotten stuck in the carb. It’s getting fuel, spark, and tons of compression so I’ll just have to go step by step and diagnose it. It ran well for a minute then just wouldn’t crank back over. Frustrating as all heck.

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OK. Have you installed a decent inline filter, for me that is a must. Your petcock filter may not be doing its job. Good luck.

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Hell yeah boys I got her started today and she ran like a dream. I wasn’t sure about a break in method because everything I read was different, so she kicked over in 2 kicks with tons of compression with the choke on. I immediately turned the choke off (its 90degrees) and let it run blipping it 1/4 throttle a few times for about 10 minutes. Turned it off and let it cool till I could touch the pipe barehanded, and then started it backup (in 2 kicks) and did the same thing. Only have to put the front brake on and number plate. Still waiting on seals for the front brake calipers.
IMG_5720.JPGIMG_5721.JPGI’ve never ridden a 250 2 stroke or actually anything over an 85 2 stroke so the power this thing has is insane. I didn’t ride it today except around the backyard in first gear a few laps but it’s very intimidating. So much power and I was only on 1st barely touching the throttle. Crazy. I’m excited to get better.
But what I’m really happy about is that I rebuilt the bike from the frame up including taking the engine completely apart and replacing basically everything. This is my first time mechanically doing anything this in depth and she purrs.
Thanks for all of the advice and input from you guys. Definitely would not have been able to do it without y’all. Thanks. Wish I could put a video up somehow.

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Good job dude, Congrats..

Respect the power!!!

It will very easily throw you on your ass, but wen you get used to it  and more experienced. Thers nothing like it.. you just gota have throttle control. 

At break in, you wana do heat cycles, getting the  cylinder warm to the touch, and then  let cylinder cool completely to the touch, then repeat this 2 or 3 or even 4 times. No full throttle, no sand or mud riding as this will put to much of a load on the motor. NO full throttle, Vary your throttle openings during break in,  low to 1/2 throttle.   then next cycle and low to 3/4 throttle. Then next cycle low to full throttle, but only hit  full throttle for brief periods.  not one  sustained throttle opening for long periods. Then recheck your cylinder and cylinder head torque values, just to make sure nothing loosened.. this should be a sufficient break im period, and will help your bike to have a long lasting piston and cylinder life.. I believe there is a motor breakin discription in the front of the Honda owners manuals. Being patient with the breaking in of your motor/trans, will let your motor/trans last longer then a short breakin period. But some guys will tell you they didnt do any of this and there motor runs fine and last a long time.. i feel comfortable with this method for myself and my friends, and have been riding and racing with this method for 30 years with not 1 problem. 

Make sure everytime you start your bike up  that you warm the bike up before you take off, and wait for the cylinder to be warm to the touch,  before u ride the bike,  dont rev the bike to high while its in neutral, if its cold..  or you could have a cold seizure. Cold seizure is caused when the piston expands faster than the cylinder and the clearance between the piston and cylinder is reduced, and the piston seizs..meaning it stops, and you will be replacing your top end again.

If the bike is already warm, u can start it up and ride rite away, or rev the bike high with no worries.

 They recommend changing your oil after 1 hour of break in time  or you can do it sooner, as your new parts will be breaking in, and wearing,  and small metal shavings will get into your oil. It doesnt cost much to change your oil and keep it fresh, all the time, not just wen parts are new. 

Good luck

Edited by Orange Crush 500
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Good job dude, Congrats..
Respect the power!!!
It will very easily throw you on your ass, but wen you get used to it  and more experienced. Thers nothing like it.. you just gota have throttle control. 
At break in, you wana do heat cycles, getting the  cylinder warm, and then  let cylinder cool completely, then repeat this. No full throttle, no sand or mud riding as this will put to much of a load on the motor. Vary your throttle openings, no sustained throttle opening for long periods. I believe there is a motor break in discription in the front of the Honda owners manuals. 
Make sure everytime you start your bike up  that you warm the bike up before you take off, and wait for the cylinder to be warm to the touch,  before u ride the bike,  dont rev bike to high while its in neutral, if its cold..  or you could have a cold seizure. Cold seizure is caused when the piston expands faster than the cylinder and the clearance between the piston and cylinder is reduced, and the piston seizs..meaning it stops, and you will be replacing your top end again.
If the bike is already warm, u can start it up and ride rite away, or rev the bike high with no worries.
 They recommend changing your oil after 1 hour of break in time  or you can do it sooner, as your new parts will be breaking in, and wearing,  and small metal shavings will get into your oil. It doesnt cost much to change your oil and keep it fresh, all the time, not just wen parts are new. 
Good luck

Thanks man I appreciate it. I’ll make sure and change the oil before I do more heat cycles tomorrow. I bought a couple gallons of it.

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1 hour ago, Orange Crush 500 said:

Good job dude, Congrats..

Respect the power!!!

It will very easily throw you on your ass, but wen you get used to it  and more experienced. Thers nothing like it.. you just gota have throttle control. 

At break in, you wana do heat cycles, getting the  cylinder warm to the touch, and then  let cylinder cool completely to the touch, then repeat this 2 or 3 or even 4 times. No full throttle, no sand or mud riding as this will put to much of a load on the motor. NO full throttle, Vary your throttle openings during break in,  low to 1/2 throttle.   then next cycle and low to 3/4 throttle. Then next cycle low to full throttle, but only hit  full throttle for brief periods.  not one  sustained throttle opening for long periods. Then recheck your cylinder and cylinder head torque values, just to make sure nothing loosened.. this should be a sufficient break im period, and will help your bike to have a long lasting piston and cylinder life.. I believe there is a motor breakin discription in the front of the Honda owners manuals. Being patient with the breaking in of your motor/trans, will let your motor/trans last longer then a short breakin period. But some guys will tell you they didnt do any of this and there motor runs fine and last a long time.. i feel comfortable with this method for myself and my friends, and have been riding and racing with this method for 30 years with not 1 problem. 

Make sure everytime you start your bike up  that you warm the bike up before you take off, and wait for the cylinder to be warm to the touch,  before u ride the bike,  dont rev the bike to high while its in neutral, if its cold..  or you could have a cold seizure. Cold seizure is caused when the piston expands faster than the cylinder and the clearance between the piston and cylinder is reduced, and the piston seizs..meaning it stops, and you will be replacing your top end again.

If the bike is already warm, u can start it up and ride rite away, or rev the bike high with no worries.

 They recommend changing your oil after 1 hour of break in time  or you can do it sooner, as your new parts will be breaking in, and wearing,  and small metal shavings will get into your oil. It doesnt cost much to change your oil and keep it fresh, all the time, not just wen parts are new. 

Good luck

Lots of good advice and that warm up advice is totally correct. I always wait till the cyl is too hot to hold a bare finger on before I take off. Orig crank, cyl, fourth piston in my 01.  

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:thumbsup: Really good job. Krylon has a rattle can plastic paint that you can get at Walmart. You could have painted those fork protectors glossy white to complete the look, it comes in many other colors also. Clean the plastic well and it works excellent.

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