Initial xtrainer maintenance

[MixinGasKickinAss]

Hi guys.

I just bought a new xtrainer and am going to go over it today with a fine tooth comb looking for specific points to hit. 

I’ve read to tighten and Loctite bolts and fasteners. Is there anything specific or should I hit literally every bolt and fastener, motor, plastics etc?

Greasing: i understand I’ll have to basically re grease all of the bearings.  The bike is going back to the shop for some quick warranty work and I’m wondering if the shop would just grease all of these points for me since it’s a known issue?

safety wire throttle cable: I’m not exactly sure what I’m supposed to do here. Safety wire the throttle cable to what and why?

changing oil: do I have to remove the skid plate to access the drain plug? Seems like the brake pedal is in the way from getting directly at it on the side. Any tricks to getting at it without removing the skid plate?

ive already put dielectric in all of the electrical connectors. 

Is there anything else?

[Chas_M]

You don't have to remove the skid plate to change oil but it will be very messy otherwise.  The stock skid plate is very easy to remove and replace, at least it is on 300RR's.  

Use only medium strength Loctite.  Do not use Locktite on plastics or on anything associated with plastic like shroud fasteners on gas tank for example.  

Zip tie the ends of the rubber connector between the muffler and head pipe to prevent oil dripping out.  I use hose clamps here rather than zip ties.

Edited May 28, 2018 by Chas_M

[Danceswithtrees]

I use anti-seize much more than lock tite, especially for steel bolts going into aluminum threads, or shroud bolts going into brass inserts in the tank, you don't want those to seize.  I don't think there's a need to strip the whole bike down and do every bolt, that's a little excessive imo, just add some when you dissemble something like pulling the plastic for whatever reason. 

Doesn't hurt to grease your linkage bearings, but I wouldn't say it's a known issue.  I've had 3 Betas and they've all came dripping grease from the factory.  I just greased my 390 at 60 something hours and all the bearings were still wet with grease, and I did my buddies 250re at 138 hours and his were good too, but I'd make sure to hit those before 50 hours, mainly the lower shock bearing is the one that is the smallest and takes the most abuse. 

[bikesandcars]

Get some rubber fuel hose the same OD as the thread I'd, 12mm? I forget what size as I used a scrap piece. lay the bike over and remove the drain plug, screw in the hose, and you can drain the oil with no mess.

 

Flush radiator and change the coolant.

 

Loctite critical bolts like shift lever.

 

Wait till end of season to grease, there's enough in there unless you do frequent deep water, but do it by 50 hrs.

 

Take plastics off, put in box, buy new plastics. You will trash the stock ones, they don't hold up, and new ones with graphics are $$

 

 

[FORMA MOTO]

To reinterate, don't use Loctite type products on un-like metals.  Use anti seize.

EG: swingarm adjuster bolts, all fasteners going into the tank, carb fasteners, clutch/throttle/cluster/handguards/barclamps, etc. 

If you find a fastener combo that needs assistance from vibrating out, use Plumbers tape instead. That or high-temp silicone.

Basically, locktite only on frame and motor fasteners. 

Saftey wire the carb cable to the top of the carb

Saftey wire the grips in place

 

[MikeHassett]

2 hours ago, bikesandcars said:

Get some rubber fuel hose the same OD as the thread I'd, 12mm? I forget what size as I used a scrap piece. lay the bike over and remove the drain plug, screw in the hose, and you can drain the oil with no mess.

 

Flush radiator and change the coolant.

 

Loctite critical bolts like shift lever.

 

Wait till end of season to grease, there's enough in there unless you do frequent deep water, but do it by 50 hrs.

 

Take plastics off, put in box, buy new plastics. You will trash the stock ones, they don't hold up, and new ones with graphics are $$

 

 

why do you say to flush the radiator and drain the coolant?  Just curious since I havent seen this mentioned anywhere before

[hawaiidirtrider]

13 hours ago, MixinGasEatinAss said:

Hi guys.

I just bought a new xtrainer and am going to go over it today with a fine tooth comb looking for specific points to hit. 

I’ve read to tighten and Loctite bolts and fasteners. Is there anything specific or should I hit literally every bolt and fastener, motor, plastics etc?

Greasing: i understand I’ll have to basically re grease all of the bearings.  The bike is going back to the shop for some quick warranty work and I’m wondering if the shop would just grease all of these points for me since it’s a known issue?

safety wire throttle cable: I’m not exactly sure what I’m supposed to do here. Safety wire the throttle cable to what and why?

changing oil: do I have to remove the skid plate to access the drain plug? Seems like the brake pedal is in the way from getting directly at it on the side. Any tricks to getting at it without removing the skid plate?

ive already put dielectric in all of the electrical connectors. 

Is there anything else?

Get one of these. It’s clear and simple and to the point. It’s a great reference too. Try and see if your library has it then it’s free to read. 

https://www.amazon.com/Motocross-Off-Road-Motorcycle-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760335966

https://www.amazon.com/Motocross-Off-Road-Motorcycle-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760335966

[hawaiidirtrider]

https://m.barnesandnoble.com/p/motocross-off-road-performance-handbook-eric-gorr/1106752853/2678914560668?st=PLA&sid=BNB_DRS_New+Marketplace+Shopping+Books_00000000&2sid=Google_&sourceId=PLGoP164949&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0a7YBRDnARIsAJgsF3MsKXWCU-QyIXskOe3IAl9WlsKpXuCt7H3WOJCO2KIvjflvmHoA25YaAtg2EALw_wcB

read and keep this book and it answers just about all your questions... best bang for your buck

https://pollabooks.com/products/motocross-off-road-performance-handbook-motorbooks-workshop

I have a simple library that I have on the right hand side of my desk with this and other great resources

 

 

 

[bikesandcars]

why do you say to flush the radiator and drain the coolant?  Just curious since I havent seen this mentioned anywhere before

It's likely the cause of many of the minor coolant leak issues that folks have experienced. For example my thermostat housing weeped. Not all betas do it.

[Danceswithtrees]

8 hours ago, MikeHassett said:

why do you say to flush the radiator and drain the coolant?  Just curious since I havent seen this mentioned anywhere before

Many new Betas will hold pressure in the cooling system for days after they cool down.  The general recommendation here has been to change the head o-rings, but the real reason is that the radiator supplier has not thoroughly cleaned the radiators after manufacturing which is leaving a chemical flux inside that reacts with the Motul coolant and off gasses and produces the pressure we're seeing.  I've witnesses this myself on several bikes, including 4 strokes, and a simple flush and refill has solved the issue. 

[shrubitup]

11 hours ago, THE KRAN said:

Saftey wire the grips in place

Solved by odi lock on grips. Reduces vibration too if you get the rouge mx pattern.

[ToolmanJohn]

I concur with anti-seize on bolts removed. Maybe once a year during off season "winter" check every accessible fastener during the big cleaning and PM.

I rest my Xtrainer against a support post in the garage so it is leaning right, removed the drain plug and it is very little mess to wipe with a rag. Almost all the oil goes into my catch pan and only have to do a little wipe on my aluminum skid plate after replacing the drain bolt. Measure the oil back in (850ml I think??) . It takes what seems like forever because the clutch basket and plates block the free oil flow when refilling. A real patience testing PITA. Go to fast and you have a mess to wipe up.

I added grease to the linkage bearings when adding my Kouba link (recently took it off for testing purposes), and the bearings had plenty. Smothered them again anyway and reinstalled the linkage.

Check your chain slack after the first ride!! You might need to readjust (I had to).