Jump to content
USWE SPORTS ACTION HYDRO PACKS GIVEAWAYS!!! Read more... ×

Motul Transoil 10W-40, worth it for the transmission, my reasons why.

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Since new, I had run the Motul Transoil in the gearbox.  Then, dumb me, ignoring all the good advice for what is the best for the x-mission, goes and tries Mobil 1 10W-40, and then a 0W-40 Mystic snowmobile/motorcycle gear oil and both of them made the x-mission notchy and really hard to find neutral at any time as well as clunking when dropping into first. 

With the Motul, before I had changed oils for the first time, had me almost easily getting neutral, down from second gear, even at a stop.  As soon as I switched, there was just no way to find neutral, even coasting to a stop.  

 

I changed the oil back to the Motul back at the very end of March and then again a few days ago and the great shifting, or should I say better shifting is back.  No slam into first gear and finding neutral is a LOT easier and I expect it to get better after the next oil change.  

 

For what the oil costs, which is maybe $2-3 more per quart, I will now only use the stuff for the transmission, even in the winter as using the 0W-40 oil did nothing to help the clutch plates sticking in the extreme cold.  The only thing that helped that was to allow the motor to get to at least 150-F  and holding and exercising the clutch lever to unstick the clutch plates from the frozen oil in the gearbox.  

 

I will, though, use any full syn 10W-40 in the motor side and the Mystic 0W-40 for the winter.  

Edited by Ben500RR-S
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 minutes ago, Ben500RR-S said:

Since new, I had run the Motul Transoil in the gearbox.  Then, dumb me, ignoring all the good advice for what is the best for the x-mission, goes and tries Mobil 1 10W-40, and then a 0W-40 Mystic snowmobile/motorcycle gear oil and both of them made the x-mission notchy and really hard to find neutral at any time as well as clunking when dropping into first. 

With the Motul, before I had changed oils for the first time, had me almost easily getting neutral, down from second gear, even at a stop.  As soon as I switched, there was just no way to find neutral, even coasting to a stop.  

 

I changed the oil back to the Motul back at the very end of March and then again a few days ago and the great shifting, or should I say better shifting is back.  No slam into first gear and finding neutral is a LOT easier and I expect it to get better after the next oil change.  

 

For what the oil costs, which is maybe $2-3 per quart, I will now only use the stuff for the transmission, even in the winter as using the 0W-40 oil did nothing to help the clutch plates sticking in the extreme cold.  The only thing that helped that was to allow the motor to get to at least 150-F  and holding and exercising the clutch lever to unstick the clutch plates from the frozen oil in the gearbox.  

 

I will, though, use any full syn 10W-40 in the motor side and the Mystic 0W-40 for the winter.  

I’ve been running Allison Transynd in my gearbox for last year.  Been pretty happy with it. I can buy it at right price, clutch works great & gears feel same as the Motul oil.

It is made by Castrol, synthetic and made to deal with clutches & gear shear loads in HD Allison commercial transmissions & PTO gearboxes.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, BetaDale said:

I’ve been running Allison Transynd in my gearbox for last year.  Been pretty happy with it. I can buy it at right price, clutch works great & gears feel same as the Motul oil.

It is made by Castrol, synthetic and made to deal with clutches & gear shear loads in HD Allison commercial transmissions & PTO gearboxes.

Where are you buying that stuff from?  

 

 

I'm now finished with the gearbox oil testing phase for my 2017 Beta.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I tried them all too, and am back to Pro Honda HP trans oil. The old stand by oil since 2002.

The worst oils for 'shift feel' were the most expensive full synthetics.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Since new, I had run the Motul Transoil in the gearbox.  Then, dumb me, ignoring all the good advice for what is the best for the x-mission, goes and tries Mobil 1 10W-40, and then a 0W-40 Mystic snowmobile/motorcycle gear oil and both of them made the x-mission notchy and really hard to find neutral at any time as well as clunking when dropping into first. 
With the Motul, before I had changed oils for the first time, had me almost easily getting neutral, down from second gear, even at a stop.  As soon as I switched, there was just no way to find neutral, even coasting to a stop.  
 
I changed the oil back to the Motul back at the very end of March and then again a few days ago and the great shifting, or should I say better shifting is back.  No slam into first gear and finding neutral is a LOT easier and I expect it to get better after the next oil change.  
 
For what the oil costs, which is maybe $2-3 per quart, I will now only use the stuff for the transmission, even in the winter as using the 0W-40 oil did nothing to help the clutch plates sticking in the extreme cold.  The only thing that helped that was to allow the motor to get to at least 150-F  and holding and exercising the clutch lever to unstick the clutch plates from the frozen oil in the gearbox.  
 
I will, though, use any full syn 10W-40 in the motor side and the Mystic 0W-40 for the winter.  

I would love a link to 2-3$ motul. That’s way better than what I can find it for.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
4 minutes ago, Hoosier-Daddy said:


I would love a link to 2-3$ motul. That’s way better than what I can find it for.

I added the "$2-3 MORE, per quart . . . "  

After trying others, I'll now be happy paying whatever it costs as in the big scheme of things, I can swing it.  The price of one gallon of regular gas=no problem-o.  Whatever Motul is adding to that Transoil Expert, is working.  The transmission still drags but that is just Beta and I only really notice it on the street where the friction on the pavement is so very low, or when it is really cold outside and nothing in the motor really heats up unlike now in the spring and 70-80 degree F temps.  

Edited by Ben500RR-S

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I also use Motul Transoil, not because I know anything much about oils but because Beta recommend it and I have to use something so it might as well be that!

My beef is with the neutral finding and clutch drag you get on most of these enduro bikes, regardless of the oil you use.  I've ridden and raced countless sports bikes, and rarely do you ever find such clunky gearboxes.  Suzuki in particular has a reputation for lovely smooth GSXR gearchanges, and there is simply no issue with finding neutral or being able to free-wheel the bike switched off but in gear.  This isn't something you often really need/want to do with a road bike but it is a common situation off-road.  My mates have KTM EXCs, WRFs, Huskies and Betas like mine.  We all suffer the same crap to some degree or another.  My 2012 Beta 450RR used to be terrible, jumping forward on engaging first, taking forever to find neutral with the bike running etc etc, but now it has got a lot better after i tried many of the fixes suggested on here.

But why is it beyond the manufacturers of enduro singles to come up with a slick, smooth gearbox/clutch that works as well as the road bikes some of them also make?  You don't get this crap on a KTM RC8, or a Yamaha R1.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Ben500RR-S said:

Where are you buying that stuff from?  

 

 

I'm now finished with the gearbox oil testing phase for my 2017 Beta.  

I happen to work at Allison transmission distributor, but if you go on Allison’s website, they have a look up for dealers all around the world.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I dont realy ever miss shifts with my beta 500 rr-s.

but I do sometimes hit a flase nuetral when going down from 2nd to 1st.

I also never can find nuetral, so I gave up long ago and just turn the bike off.

I dont under stand what clutch drag and transmision drag are. Is this when I put the bike in gear and it feels like pulling forward when its in gear? Because my bike does this. My old honda was silky smooth compared to my beta and I always thought the beta had a sticky transmision like an old rm250. lol

But are you guys telling me that the motul transx is the best, because thats what ive been using, but kran has me wanting to go back and try the honda stuff again.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 minutes ago, daveuprite said:

I also use Motul Transoil, not because I know anything much about oils but because Beta recommend it and I have to use something so it might as well be that!

My beef is with the neutral finding and clutch drag you get on most of these enduro bikes, regardless of the oil you use.  I've ridden and raced countless sports bikes, and rarely do you ever find such clunky gearboxes.  Suzuki in particular has a reputation for lovely smooth GSXR gearchanges, and there is simply no issue with finding neutral or being able to free-wheel the bike switched off but in gear.  This isn't something you often really need/want to do with a road bike but it is a common situation off-road.  My mates have KTM EXCs, WRFs, Huskies and Betas like mine.  We all suffer the same crap to some degree or another.  My 2012 Beta 450RR used to be terrible, jumping forward on engaging first, taking forever to find neutral with the bike running etc etc, but now it has got a lot better after i tried many of the fixes suggested on here.

But why is it beyond the manufacturers of enduro singles to come up with a slick, smooth gearbox/clutch that works as well as the road bikes some of them also make?  You don't get this crap on a KTM RC8, or a Yamaha R1.

 

I agree with this.  Beta has said that for 2018 they have improved the clutch, but not the transmission and that elusive neutral.  

Every other Japanese bike, whether dirt or street has had a smooth, easy to find gearbox, but not this Beta.  Underway, it is good and solid, it is just that neutral and I'll say, in traffic or at stop/streetlights, it is a PITA.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, when we take a rest I tend to just kill the bike in gear and then find neutral with the bike turned off.  I'm not making out that it's a huge inconvenience, but why should I have to do that?  I treat the bike to oil changes that are FAR too frequent, using the recommended (and none too cheap) Motul oils - 300V and Transoil - and I pay attention to chain tension, wheel alignment, bleeding the hydraulic clutch every three rides etc.  I've also fitted a new clutch basket, a new set of clutch plates and springs every 100 hours or so, etc etc.  This is not a neglected bike.  But still, to one degree or another, the bike refuses to behave like one of my thrashed to &%$#@! ZX10R track bikes which find neutral straight off in all circumstances.

OK, moaning over.  I still bloody love my Beta and look forward to every time I take it out...

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 minutes ago, surfer-dude said:

I dont realy ever miss shifts with my beta 500 rr-s.

but I do sometimes hit a flase nuetral when going down from 2nd to 1st.

I also never can find nuetral, so I gave up long ago and just turn the bike off.

I dont under stand what clutch drag and transmision drag are. Is this when I put the bike in gear and it feels like pulling forward when its in gear? Because my bike does this. My old honda was silky smooth compared to my beta and I always thought the beta had a sticky transmision like an old rm250. lol

But are you guys telling me that the motul transx is the best, because thats what ive been using, but kran has me wanting to go back and try the honda stuff again.

 

I don't miss shifts in the 17 500 RR-S either and don't remember ever missing any in any of the other bikes I have had in the past as well.  

 

I also have to resort to shutting down anytime I need neutral.  

 

The drag is when the bike is running in gear and the bike wants to go/move forward.  I thought that after 2,400 miles and 135 hours it might get better but somehow, the stuff spinning still causes the bike to want to move, no matter what.  

 

I will stick with the Motul Transoil Expert.  If I run out, I might try Kran's suggestion with the Honda HP but I have like 4 or 5 quarts to go and will get more Motul next chance I'm somewhere that sells it as I'm pretty much done trying out stuff only to find out it sucks and to try and save $2-4 dollars per quart.  It is just not worth it as I have found that shift quality is important to me and that the oil makes a big difference.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, daveuprite said:

Yeah, when we take a rest I tend to just kill the bike in gear and then find neutral with the bike turned off.  I'm not making out that it's a huge inconvenience, but why should I have to do that?  I treat the bike to oil changes that are FAR too frequent, using the recommended (and none too cheap) Motul oils - 300V and Transoil - and I pay attention to chain tension, wheel alignment, bleeding the hydraulic clutch every three rides etc.  I've also fitted a new clutch basket, a new set of clutch plates and springs every 100 hours or so, etc etc.  This is not a neglected bike.  But still, to one degree or another, the bike refuses to behave like one of my thrashed to &%$#@! ZX10R track bikes which find neutral straight off in all circumstances.

OK, moaning over.  I still bloody love my Beta and look forward to every time I take it out...

 

I agree, nothing is perfect but I do love my Beta, even with the creep and the impossible to find neutral at at stop with the engine running.  I can live with it.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
53 minutes ago, daveuprite said:

I also use Motul Transoil, not because I know anything much about oils but because Beta recommend it and I have to use something so it might as well be that!

My beef is with the neutral finding and clutch drag you get on most of these enduro bikes, regardless of the oil you use.  I've ridden and raced countless sports bikes, and rarely do you ever find such clunky gearboxes.  Suzuki in particular has a reputation for lovely smooth GSXR gearchanges, and there is simply no issue with finding neutral or being able to free-wheel the bike switched off but in gear.  This isn't something you often really need/want to do with a road bike but it is a common situation off-road.  My mates have KTM EXCs, WRFs, Huskies and Betas like mine.  We all suffer the same crap to some degree or another.  My 2012 Beta 450RR used to be terrible, jumping forward on engaging first, taking forever to find neutral with the bike running etc etc, but now it has got a lot better after i tried many of the fixes suggested on here.

But why is it beyond the manufacturers of enduro singles to come up with a slick, smooth gearbox/clutch that works as well as the road bikes some of them also make?  You don't get this crap on a KTM RC8, or a Yamaha R1.

 

When was the last time you used the clutch 300 times in 8 minutes while modulating 50% of the time, using constant on/off/on throttle.....on a tarmac bike?

No logical comparison here....

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't like Motul gear box oil , it doesn't work with my RR 300 , stock recommended Liquimoly is perfect to me 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 minutes ago, THE KRAN said:

When was the last time you used the clutch 300 times in 8 minutes while modulating 50% of the time, using constant on/off/on throttle.....on a tarmac bike?

No logical comparison here....

 

OK, fair point.  Yes the dirt bike clutches get far more of a beating, I agree.  But it doesn't explain why so many of them do it even from brand new, or when blueprinted back to new spec.  And it's not as if the bike makers don't know perfectly well that the bikes are going to be used exactly like that.

I just think it shouldn't be beyond highly skilled experienced manufacturers to have designed out these problems by now.

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, daveuprite said:

OK, fair point.  Yes the dirt bike clutches get far more of a beating, I agree.  But it doesn't explain why so many of them do it even from brand new, or when blueprinted back to new spec.  And it's not as if the bike makers don't know perfectly well that the bikes are going to be used exactly like that.

I just think it shouldn't be beyond highly skilled experienced manufacturers to have designed out these problems by now.

 

 

 

I just don't think you get it......that is the issue.

If you want a $1200 clutch added to the pricetag of your dirtrbike, then all you have to do it this :  https://rekluse.com/product/core-manual-torq-drive-clutch/

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
40 minutes ago, ged93 said:

I don't like Motul gear box oil , it doesn't work with my RR 300 , stock recommended Liquimoly is perfect to me 

I have no issues in my 300RR with finding neutral. I use 10W40 semi synth Castrol or ATF of any formulation or 15W40 diesel oil - all three of which are non "motorcycle" specific formulations.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


×