Rekluse for the RR-S. I think I'm in. Just help me a little with . . .

[Ben500RR-S]

 . . . some questions if you would/could.  

Ok, I'll admit.  I never thought I'd ever consider a Rekluse for my bike but after having ridden my wife's TTR 125 LE with it for the past few hours, I can now see the value in how it works and am pretty darned impressed with it, like really impressed.  I can truly see how, when riding the gnarly, slow, rocky trails, trails that I really don't like but ride them because we have to ride them and they make us fantastic riders, I can see how being able to just go incredibly slow, or even stopping, without needing to worry about clutching, taking ones fingers off the grip to work the clutch, everything about needing to use the clutch now being eliminated, to make things just so much easier.  I think I would love it.  Never mind for the snowbike where the mega long track makes slow going trickier than it would ever be when maneuvering with a wheel/tire on the back, the Rekluse would shine and now I know why many put them on their bikes. 

Now, here are my questions.  What is the best Rekluse I can get?  I know nothing but the EXP 3.0 that was the easiest install on the TTR 125.  Is the install also easy on our Beta's?  

[hawaiidirtrider]

Just make sure you get the left hand rear brake or clake to complete the package.

[Danceswithtrees]

9 hours ago, Ben500RR-S said:

 . . . some questions if you would/could.  

Ok, I'll admit.  I never thought I'd ever consider a Rekluse for my bike but after having ridden my wife's TTR 125 LE with it for the past few hours, I can now see the value in how it works and am pretty darned impressed with it, like really impressed.  I can truly see how, when riding the gnarly, slow, rocky trails, trails that I really don't like but ride them because we have to ride them and they make us fantastic riders, I can see how being able to just go incredibly slow, or even stopping, without needing to worry about clutching, taking ones fingers off the grip to work the clutch, everything about needing to use the clutch now being eliminated, to make things just so much easier.  I think I would love it.  Never mind for the snowbike where the mega long track makes slow going trickier than it would ever be when maneuvering with a wheel/tire on the back, the Rekluse would shine and now I know why many put them on their bikes. 

Now, here are my questions.  What is the best Rekluse I can get?  I know nothing but the EXP 3.0 that was the easiest install on the TTR 125.  Is the install also easy on our Beta's?  

Get the RadiusX if you want the best, it's definitely worth the little extra over the Core 3.0.  The internal freeplay adjustment is much easier to setup and maintain and it just has a really good feel to it. 

[ToolmanJohn]

RadiusCX is their top of the line. Clutch feel is nearly identical to stock, comes with the basket, friction plates, adjustable slave cylinder, extra springs.

I only have two rides on my RadiusCX, and I stall and fall no more. Now I just fall less haha. And my fingers don't cramp anymore. Trails NOT wide open around here requiring near constant clutch feathering. This is really hard to do for 4 hrs, and the ride is NO fun after 2. 

I don't know if there is anything I may miss suing the Rekluse, because I have had no need to zap, splat or other fine enduro techniques (yet). But the RadiusCX still allows you to do that because full clutch control remains intact. Acts like normal, just won't stall. I tried some high RPM rough terrain rear brake skids down to a dead stop and it won't stall.

 Make sure to watch the free play gain videos and understand how to adjust it. It does make a difference in whether it feels soft or rapid firm engagement (mine is adjusted for near instant engagement). Rapid engagement makes is SO much easier to get moving in rough terrain from a standstill. No delay, and I get two feet right back on the pegs instead of sitting for 6 feet trying to balance and clutch, knowing it won't suddenly stall  and tip me off balance. Kinda stinks having a short inseam doing this sport but at least I'm having fun.

[ToolmanJohn]

8 hours ago, hawaiidirtrider said:

Just make sure you get the left hand rear brake or clake to complete the package.

Do you recommend any particular one? I am looking now that I have the Rekluse on. I have been hill holding using the throttle/Rekluse when I must have right foot down on steep inclines and can't use the right foot. But the Rekluse isn't the best way to hill hold.

 

I was looking at Ox-Brkae (mechanical, and looks like a  MTB lever), Rekluse $$$, and SmokN $$$. I have to take some measurements on theleft bar, to see what I can move around to make one fit.

[mtngoat]

I had the Rekluse LHRB. Not enough braking power for me. It was like using a bicycle brake. Now, to be fair to Rekluse, I ride a 430 that is armored up. I am 260lbs. w/o riding gear (probably 280 when fully geared up for a remote mountain ride). So that poor little brake may not have ever had a fighting chance. I took it off. I’ve been in Alabama for about a year for work, so I haven’t had a need for a LHRB as there isn’t any riding technical enough to necessitate one here. If I find myself back in technical western terrain, I may give the Clake a try. I’m just having a difficult time figuring out which set up to go with.

[Cappy]

Been using g the CX now since Rekluse released it and for me it's a game changer especially if you have issues with onset of CTS or advanced arthritis. Prior to the Rekluse my hand would literally go completely numb within 15 mins of riding. Sure it's a mechanical aide and you'll get the occasional "scooter" comments (usually from those justifying how an old man passed them in a difficult section) but the Rekluse is a game changer and the left handed rear brake is icing on the cake. The only thing you have to get used to is not trying to use the rear foot brake and the LHRB simultaneously since they cancel each other out and the lack of engine braking...other than that it's game on!

[Chas_M]

11 hours ago, hawaiidirtrider said:

Just make sure you get the left hand rear brake or Clake to complete the package.

 

2 hours ago, ToolmanJohn said:

Do you recommend any particular one? I am looking now that I have the Rekluse on. I have been hill holding using the throttle/Rekluse when I must have right foot down on steep inclines and can't use the right foot. But the Rekluse isn't the best way to hill hold.

I was looking at Ox-Brake (mechanical, and looks like a  MTB lever), Rekluse $$$, and SmokN $$$. I have to take some measurements on the left bar, to see what I can move around to make one fit.

 

If your bike has a Brembo clutch master cylinder, the Clake SLR is a perfect match for it.  The SLR dovetails perfectly with the Brembo providing two very ergonomic easy to reach levers.  The Clake SLR is not overpriced - - cost is similar to or less than the Rekluse LHRB.  Since I already had the Brembo clutch MC on my Beta 300RR connected directly to the rear brake caliper for the LHRB, I used the SLR for the clutch override.  The SLR can be used for either the LHRB or the clutch override.

I have tried the Ox-Brake several times on friend's bikes and while they do work they are not nearly as efficient or as strong as a properly independently set up hydraulic LHRB.

[Marco the Pool Boy]

Been running the 3.0 for 2500 miles on my RS, just tore it down for a “look-see” still perfect well within specs. Love it! Though I would like a LHRB to complete the package.

[NW_drZ]

Rekluse w/ a Midwest lever works great.  I have experience with both the Core 3 and Radius X.  If you are an aggressive rider that runs at race pace a lot the radius is the better choice IMO.  Almost no slip and instant hookup.  Some will like this, others will not.  I run the Core 3 and ride a decent pace here in the PNW.  I have found zero need to upgrade it to the CX.  Then again, i still use the clutch lever the whole time which makes a big difference with engagement.  Both the Core 3 and Radius are exactly the same as far as adjusting the freeplay gain with the external slave adjuster.  So neither gets a nod here for setup.  With 100 hours on my current Core 3, the friction plates measure almost new still.  Zero glazing, and zero notching on the clutch basket.  I see good deals on Core 3's pop up from time to time since they have been around longer.  I wouldn't hesitate if the price is right.  The standard Radius X would also be a good option.     

Edited June 9, 2018 by NW_drZ

[shrubitup]

28 minutes ago, NW_drZ said:

I see good deals on Core 3's pop up from time to time since they have been around longer.

Hook a brother up, I'm about to admit fatigue due to slipping the lever all day. Don't need bump start cuz the Beta starts easy with a button. Not worried about rollback cuz I ain't doing no more crazy hills.

[NW_drZ]

1 minute ago, shrubitup said:

Hook a brother up, I'm about to admit fatigue due to slipping the lever all day. Don't need bump start cuz the Beta starts easy with a button. Not worried about rollback cuz I ain't doing no more crazy hills.

Tom i can't tell if you are messing with me here or not ?.  

[hawaiidirtrider]

Ox is cheaper. I was thinking of getting that but it doesn’t work as well as just the rekluse one or clake which is way to expensive for what you get to me. Also the clake does not work for my style of hand gripping on the bike. I use my thumb and forefinger to wrap around and hold on the grips and use my other fingers for braking. It’s just how I learned to ride since I was a little kid. There’s more power to pull in your clutch and brake when your hands are little and weak. 

I was just going to get the rekluse lhrb. It does look like a bicycle brake but it has worked great when Ive tried auto clutch before. Of the 3 I think I’d go that route. I didn’t use it all day on a ride. Just a short ride but it was down some ugly down hills and did work good. 

 

[Ben500RR-S]

Thank you guys.  For the extra $$$, I figure, if I'm going to do it, I might as well do it and get the best/most expensive Rekluse, the CX. 

I agree ToolmanJohn, I'd want the instant or near-instant engagement for sure.  

I'm now going to save my money.  

 

I'll admit, too, that I've been thinking about getting an Alta Redshift EX, the electric dual sport and just keeping the RR-S for a snowbike but also realize-not that it is hard to realize the truth, that I already have a great toy and spending another $1,000 or so on the Rekluse will be better than another $13,000+ for a new electric dual sport. 

I had just spent another morning/afternoon riding the wife's TTR 125 with the Rekluse in it and  I'm now a believer.  Being able to tiptoe, go as slow as possible, and not worry about the clutch at all and only needing to worry about the rocks/roots/obstacles is going to be momentous, never mind not needing to worry about the drag in neutral anymore, once I finally buy and install the thing then I'll be really psyched.  Hell, I'm psyched now and I'm just putting around on a TTR 125.  

Edited June 10, 2018 by Ben500RR-S

[randysoo]

Quote

I was looking at Ox-Brkae (mechanical, and looks like a  MTB lever), Rekluse $$$, and SmokN $$$.

forget the ox. it's the weakest and you can feel the cable stretch. I ran several rekluse lhrb setups on my ktms. they were ok. contantly needed bleeding. I went to the smokn setup. by far the best. get the stage 2. it switches the clutch to the mtb lever (which you don't use as much anymore) and the brembo clutch master becomes the rr brake. solid powerful feel identical in feeling to the front brake. next to the rekluse clutch, it's the next truly magical enhancement to your bike

[ChaseJJ]

On 6/9/2018 at 6:08 AM, mtngoat said:

I had the Rekluse LHRB. Not enough braking power for me. It was like using a bicycle brake. Now, to be fair to Rekluse, I ride a 430 that is armored up. I am 260lbs. w/o riding gear (probably 280 when fully geared up for a remote mountain ride). So that poor little brake may not have ever had a fighting chance. I took it off. I’ve been in Alabama for about a year for work, so I haven’t had a need for a LHRB as there isn’t any riding technical enough to necessitate one here. If I find myself back in technical western terrain, I may give the Clake a try. I’m just having a difficult time figuring out which set up to go with.

If you have a Brembo clutch MC then you have some choices.

1) Clake SLR- I suggest using the Brembo for LHRB and the Clake lever for the clutch. You have a choice. This is the lowest cost way. I like the Dual version that keeps the foot brake lever in operation as it is handy as hell on hillsides or talking with people on trail and using hands to get stuff or point out things. Approx. $400.

2) Clake 2- this unit tosses your stock clutch MC and brings the Clake cams into the game. Very ergonomic and you can adjust how the clutch/brake interface engages. Dual version available also. Approx. $1000

3) Clake Pro- similar as the Clake 2 but only uses a single lever with a diff engagement secondary lever. These can be swapped back and forth if you want to experiment with Clake styles. Approx. $1100.

All will do what you want with the Clake SLR being the overwhelming choice due to cost. Particularly since you just dropped $1000 on the Rekluse clutch. 

[djl2014]

I have a Rekluse 3.0 and a Clake SLR w/clutch. Great combo. I rarely use the clutch lever, the Rekluse is way better at modulation than I ever was.

I had an Ox Brake on my 300. It’s decent for holding the bike on a hill or scrubbing off some speed but pretty much useless as a brake. I took it off.

 

[mtngoat]

3 hours ago, Chasejj said:

If you have a Brembo clutch MC then you have some choices.

1) Clake SLR- I suggest using the Brembo for LHRB and the Clake lever for the clutch. You have a choice. This is the lowest cost way. I like the Dual version that keeps the foot brake lever in operation as it is handy as hell on hillsides or talking with people on trail and using hands to get stuff or point out things. Approx. $400.

2) Clake 2- this unit tosses your stock clutch MC and brings the Clake cams into the game. Very ergonomic and you can adjust how the clutch/brake interface engages. Dual version available also. Approx. $1000

3) Clake Pro- similar as the Clake 2 but only uses a single lever with a diff engagement secondary lever. These can be swapped back and forth if you want to experiment with Clake styles. Approx. $1100.

All will do what you want with the Clake SLR being the overwhelming choice due to cost. Particularly since you just dropped $1000 on the Rekluse clutch. 

Yeah, it's between the SLR and the Clake 2 for me. If I go SLR I plan to swap functions on the two levers like you suggested. If I do it, I most likely will loose the foot pedal completely though.

[ChaseJJ]

56 minutes ago, mtngoat said:

Yeah, it's between the SLR and the Clake 2 for me. If I go SLR I plan to swap functions on the two levers like you suggested. If I do it, I most likely will loose the foot pedal completely though.

It is nice to have the footbrake for a variety of convenient reasons. None of which involve actually braking while moving.

 

[Ben500RR-S]

Why do you guys use a LHB?