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17-18 Husqvarna Desmog


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I have a 2018 Fe 501. I’m curious about removing th emissions from these bikes and the ktm 500. Is there a performance gain by doing this? Is there anywhere anyone could direct me that has a detailed write up on this and what exactly is involved in the process? Im just curious as to why I hear people are doing this. I don't see what there is to gain from it. Please enlighten me Thanks

Edited by Huskyfe501
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Much performance is lost to make these bikes street legal.  So guys start messing with it on the cheap and often make matters worse before it gets better.  They read on the intetnet about tearing out the reed cage to allow it to breath better... then they do the same to the exhaust cap. Then it runs like crap popping on decel because with more air it becomes lean.  So they start messing with the TPS with little to no success.  Then they read that they need to find a friend of a friend to find a dealer with an old programmer who will unlock their ecu and put a Euro Map on it. Its illegal and costs hundreds now, even if you find a guy... but they look and look. 

Then they finally hear about VORTEX.  Its a $700 replacement ECU.  It makes the bike run like it should have from the start.  

Long story short... DONT MESS WITH IT... Until you are ready to do it right from the start.  There are literally tons of threads covering this issue here on TT already.

Dont be that guy that calls us in a panick looking for A VORTEX or JD Tuner cause his bike is running like crap cause he did all the freeby internet fixes first.  Do it once... correctly... the right way... and save yourself the heartache. 

Guys help this fella out...  :worthy:   @Ewog @wr250ish@StevetheSnake @HKGuns @TheCurtster

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2 minutes ago, Jeff aka Bolt said:

Much performance is lost to make these bikes street legal.  So guys start messing with it on the cheap and often make matters worse before it gets better.  They read on the intetnet about tearing out the reed cage to allow it to breath better... then they do the same to the exhaust cap. Then it runs like crap popping on decel because with more air it becomes lean.  So they start messing with the TPS with little to no success.  Then they read that they need to find a friend of a friend to find a dealer with an old programmer who will unlock their ecu and put a Euro Map on it. Its illegal and costs hundreds now, even if you find a guy... but they look and look. 

Then they finally hear about VORTEX.  Its a $700 replacement ECU.  It makes the bike run like it should have from the start.  

Long story short... DONT MESS WITH IT... Until you are ready to do it right from the start.  There are literally tons of threads covering this issue here on TT already.

Dont be that guy that calls us in a panick looking for A VORTEX or JD Tuner cause his bike is running like crap cause he did all the freeby internet fixes first.  Do it once... correctly... the right way... and save yourself the heartache. 

Guys help this fella out...  :worthy:   @Ewog @wr250ish@StevetheSnake @HKGuns @TheCurtster

Thanks for all the advice! Much appreciated. I’ve heard these bikes already run lean stock so I am aware about the issues of adding more air without correcting the fuel. I ordered a JD tuner already. Once I receive that and have it installed, and only after installing it, I was going to look into the reed cage removal and also the exhaust end cap mod. I was going to leave the mods at that and just enjoy the bike from there, unless it is of any benefit in doing the emissions removal. Does removing emissions basically just get rid of the popping on decel? And other effect on performance or fuel economy? If I do the other 3 mods I mentioned and leave the emissions system alone will the bike still run well? Thanks in advance for the help. 

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7 hours ago, Huskyfe501 said:

Thanks for all the advice! Much appreciated. I’ve heard these bikes already run lean stock so I am aware about the issues of adding more air without correcting the fuel. I ordered a JD tuner already. Once I receive that and have it installed, and only after installing it, I was going to look into the reed cage removal and also the exhaust end cap mod. I was going to leave the mods at that and just enjoy the bike from there, unless it is of any benefit in doing the emissions removal. Does removing emissions basically just get rid of the popping on decel? And other effect on performance or fuel economy? If I do the other 3 mods I mentioned and leave the emissions system alone will the bike still run well? Thanks in advance for the help. 

I have the JD Tuner on my KTM 500 EXC-F & removed the reeds & replaced the end cap on the exhaust. After doing all that it popped a lot on deceleration until I removed the smog stuff, that cured the popping.

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12 minutes ago, wr250ish said:

I did the desmog  kit, reed removal,  vortex, oem map switch, FMF exhaust and a whole list of other crap in one install, so I'm not really sure which one item got rid of the popping.  If I could do it again, I'd save my money and buy a real bike.....

Blame CARB/EPA not Husky.

What is a real bike anyway? Maybe a Beta. They seem to be the most sorted DS bikes currently. All the Japanese stuff is choked off much more.

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10 minutes ago, Chasejj said:

Blame CARB/EPA not Husky.

What is a real bike anyway? Maybe a Beta. They seem to be the most sorted DS bikes currently. All the Japanese stuff is choked off much more.

Regardless of the carb/EPA. Husqvarna is a poorly built underpowered p.o.s 

I'll be getting a BETA at some point this year. ?

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2 hours ago, rustyg61 said:

I have the JD Tuner on my KTM 500 EXC-F & removed the reeds & replaced the end cap on the exhaust. After doing all that it popped a lot on deceleration until I removed the smog stuff, that cured the popping.

How does your bike perform now with these mods versus stock?

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https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1217889-the-official-2017-500-exc-de-smog-how-to/

This thread will tell you all you need to know. You can save about a pound of weight, and stop that decel pop if you've opened your exhaust. Go slowly when removing the brass fitting on the intake and SAS. Some bikes have red loctite here, and you could strip the bolt. My bike had loctite on the brass fitting , but it came off easily. The SAS bolts are giving me a hard time however, they're in a very tight spot.

The charcoal can is a little time consuming to take out. You must remove 3 hose fittings to let it slide down, and remove the head pipe for more clearance. Removing the head pipe requires dropping the shock. The shock reservoir blocks twisting the pipe to remove it. Then the engine gets in the way of removing the charcoal can. I used a ratchet strap to bend it away from the engine, and got it out.

Here is an explanation with some pictures and video. However he does not remove the charcoal can.
https://www.ktmandhusky.com/removing-emissions-for-2017

Here is a cheaper option to block off the SAS. The KTMandHusky kit is $25 for basically two bolts, and the KTM bolts are also a little expensive.

1 x DP12X1.5AHSS - Stainless Metric Drain Plug (DP12X1.5AHSS) = $3.39
1 x GSC12X16 - Solid copper gasket (GSC12X16) = $0.19
https://www.belmetric.com/allen-socket-drain-plugs-c-563_1115_1116/dp12x15ahss-stainless-metric-drain-plug-p-6043.html?zenid=to17tbk24pinqj66cmdc01i9v3
https://www.belmetric.com/solid-copper-gaskets-c-14_850_1139/gsc12x16-solid-copper-gasket-p-6300.html?zenid=to17tbk24pinqj66cmdc01i9v3

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3 hours ago, Huskyfe501 said:

How does your bike perform now with these mods versus stock?

It made a huge difference in power! It was like I was riding with the brakes on before opening up the intake & exhaust, & the JD Tuner made it scream! It wraps like a 2 stroke now!

For what it's worth, I did not remove the canister from the frame tube. It only weighs an ounce or so & has nothing to do with performance.

Edited by rustyg61
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13 hours ago, Huskyfe501 said:

Thanks for all the advice! Much appreciated. I’ve heard these bikes already run lean stock so I am aware about the issues of adding more air without correcting the fuel. I ordered a JD tuner already. Once I receive that and have it installed, and only after installing it, I was going to look into the reed cage removal and also the exhaust end cap mod. I was going to leave the mods at that and just enjoy the bike from there, unless it is of any benefit in doing the emissions removal. Does removing emissions basically just get rid of the popping on decel? And other effect on performance or fuel economy? If I do the other 3 mods I mentioned and leave the emissions system alone will the bike still run well? Thanks in advance for the help. 

There is no benefit to the "emissions removal", other than loosing a small amount of weight and clutter. If you do this, do yourself a favor and just put a vacuum plug on the brass nipple coming out of the intake tube. I'm not sure I've read of anyone getting that brass nipple out successfully.

You need to either remove the air injection valve, or plug the open end of the tube that comes off of it to eliminate the backfire. This is the device that is ported into the exhaust port on the head where the header attaches. It allows fresh air to enter the exhaust under deceleration to mix with unburnt fuel so it will combust in the pipe(backfire). I doubt removing/disabling it has any performance advantage, the backfire is just obnoxious. 

I did basically what you plan to do. VORTEX, exhaust mods, removed the reeds, and removed the air injection valve. I left the smog stuff because from what I've read, there are only positives to running it. I have no popping, and the bike runs great.

Edited by Portmod7
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29 minutes ago, Portmod7 said:

There is no benefit to the "emissions removal", other than loosing a small amount of weight and clutter. If you do this, do yourself a favor and just put a vacuum plug on the brass nipple coming out of the intake tube. I'm not sure I've read of anyone getting that brass nipple out successfully.

You need to either remove the air injection valve, or plug the open end of the tube that comes off of it to eliminate the backfire. This is the device that is ported into the exhaust port on the head where the header attaches. It allows fresh air to enter the exhaust under deceleration to mix with unburnt fuel so it will combust in the pipe(backfire). I doubt removing/disabling it has any performance advantage, the backfire is just obnoxious. 

I did basically what you plan to do. VORTEX, exhaust mods, removed the reeds, and removed the air injection valve. I left the smog stuff because from what I've read, there are only positives to running it. I have no popping, and the bike runs great.

Safe is better than sorry in this case, for sure. Snapping a bolt on your engine sucks. But I did get mine out very easily, even with the red loctite on it. Didn't have to heat it up either.

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57 minutes ago, rustyg61 said:

It made a huge difference in power! It was like I was riding with the brakes on before opening up the intake & exhaust, & the JD Tuner made it scream! It wraps like a 2 stroke now!

For what it's worth, I did not remove the canister from the frame tube. It only weighs an ounce or so & has nothing to do with performance.

Nice! That’s what I like to hear lol. So from what I understand for smog disable you can just plug up the tube for the air valve so it can’t suck air. What is the rest of the process? Unplugging the lines that go to the canister? I don’t care so much for having to remove everything. That way reversible would be easy if ever need be. 

Edited by Huskyfe501
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50 minutes ago, Portmod7 said:

There is no benefit to the "emissions removal", other than loosing a small amount of weight and clutter. If you do this, do yourself a favor and just put a vacuum plug on the brass nipple coming out of the intake tube. I'm not sure I've read of anyone getting that brass nipple out successfully.

You need to either remove the air injection valve, or plug the open end of the tube that comes off of it to eliminate the backfire. This is the device that is ported into the exhaust port on the head where the header attaches. It allows fresh air to enter the exhaust under deceleration to mix with unburnt fuel so it will combust in the pipe(backfire). I doubt removing/disabling it has any performance advantage, the backfire is just obnoxious. 

I did basically what you plan to do. VORTEX, exhaust mods, removed the reeds, and removed the air injection valve. I left the smog stuff because from what I've read, there are only positives to running it. I have no popping, and the bike runs great.

So it sounds like to me, just plugging up and disabling the air injection valve is really the only thing needed to see any benefit such as the backfiring problems. Everything else can be left as is?

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17 minutes ago, Huskyfe501 said:

So it sounds like to me, just plugging up and disabling the air injection valve is really the only thing needed to see any benefit such as the backfiring problems. Everything else can be left as is?

For backfiring, yes.

Claims have been made that the fuel could possibly vapor lock the evap system in stock form. Removing that Y hose from the fuel cap breather solves this.

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23 minutes ago, Huskyfe501 said:

So it sounds like to me, just plugging up and disabling the air injection valve is really the only thing needed to see any benefit such as the backfiring problems. Everything else can be left as is?

Works great for me!

5 minutes ago, HansLanda said:

For backfiring, yes.

Claims have been made that the fuel could possibly vapor lock the evap system in stock form. Removing that Y hose from the fuel cap breather solves this.

I must have missed this somewhere, first I've heard of it.

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1 minute ago, HansLanda said:

For backfiring, yes.

Claims have been made that the fuel could possibly vapor lock the evap system in stock form. Removing that Y hose from the fuel cap breather solves this.

So in that case, you only need to remove the fuel cap breather from the y connector and let it hang and leave everything else be and connected? Does it need to be capped or anything from where it was disconnected? I’m referring to disabling the evap system only at this point. 

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Just now, Portmod7 said:

I must have missed this somewhere, first I've heard of it.

It's on the KTMandHusky page. I don't know if that claim is valid or not. I was always planning on removing those hoses so I didn't research it.

Quote

The last thing to do, to ensure you won't have running problems on the trail, if the fuel from the tank starts to vapor lock the evaporation system, is to pull your gas caps vent line off of this plastic Y fitting.  You will find the tank line attached to the Y along the right side of th bike, probably inside or just behind the radiator on the right ( brake ) side of the bike.

 

4 minutes ago, Huskyfe501 said:

So in that case, you only need to remove the fuel cap breather from the y connector and let it hang and leave everything else be and connected? Does it need to be capped or anything from where it was disconnected? I’m referring to disabling the evap system only at this point. 

From the tank breather, it plugs into a Y fitting. The other end of the hose plugs into the evap can's right side port. You can let the breather hang, or zip tie it somewhere, the cap apparently has it's own one way air valve, so gas shouldn't be spilling out of that hose at all.

If you want to disable the evap system, just unplug the 3 hoses from it. Top right port from the tank Y fitting, bottom port goes to ground, can't remember what the left port hose was attached to. Maybe the solenoid. 

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