DRZ - charging dropping

[bucket list]

I mean how can you describe BAD ground contact.. mistake. I think if it is clean and properly tighten, it is ok.

Visual is ok, but the only way to confirm good grounds is voltage drop tests. One lead at the neg bat. terminal, the other at frame / loads neg. wire like reg. Ign. sw, ecu and such. Engine should be running and typically not more than .05 volts read on the meter. Certainly if you have more than .1 volt you have a bad ground on that circuit.

[Francek]

Hello, I had a few busy days... Thanks for all replies. My friend with DRZ with NEW stator has switch for headlight which I dont have. I checked for voltage again. When the bike heats up, it is about 13,7V idle with headlight ON and with revs it drops to 13,1V same as mine. I have 13,6V idle and 13,1V in revs.

I forgot about it allready :D bike runs fine and my friend gave me his Transalp 650 for that big trip... I dont trust my DRZ :(

Hello, I had a few busy days... Thanks for all replies. My friend with DRZ with NEW stator has switch for headlight which I dont have. I checked for voltage again. When the bike heats up, it is about 13,7V idle with headlight ON and with revs it drops to 13,1V same as mine. I have 13,6V idle and 13,1V in revs.

I forgot about it allready :D bike runs fine and my friend gave me his Transalp 650 for that big trip... I dont trust my DRZ :(

[Noble]

The meter reading voltage drop is perfectly normal.  The voltage is not actually dropping, your meter is not fast enough to read accurately.  What happens is when the battery is charged the regulator goes into full regulation.  The choppy wave from looks like voltage drop to even a good quality home meter. Mine does the same thing.  Is this not explained in the FAQ on electrical testing?

[Francek]

Hello, another problem here.

Engine was checked in winter, piston and cylinder are very fine, new valves and new valve stem seals only for sure when it was already opened. I rode it for almost 5000km this year (not hard pushing, not high revs). It burned 0,4L of oil on last oil interval - 900kms - no leaks. 

I talked to my mechanic today. He cannot tell for sure where the oil goes. Should we take the head off and check everything ?

Thanks for opinions

[shuswap1]

Oil loss:

Are you certain it lost 400 ml of oil in 900km, that is a pretty large loss!

I would try and find the source of the loss before taking everything the head off to check, unless you have a strong urge to take the head off. Often easier to diagnose a problem BEFORE taking it apart.

Don't run the oil low and cause unnecessary damage!

Edited October 4, 2018 by shuswap1

[Francek]

Yes Im sure, I poured 1800ml (oil change with filter), added 200ml during 900km. I drained 1500ml only with filter still inside. So I added 2000ml od oil, minus 100ml for filter, it is 1900ml - drained 1500ml = 400ml oil loss. I have no idea where the oil goes

 

[Francek]

Sorted, bad valve seals ?

[kufus]

Hi, I don't want to start new topic so i will ask there as its the same problem.

I have new battery since last fall as my previous lasted for two years then was dead and left me few kilometers from my home. Few days ago I almost cannot start so I realized that my battery needs to be charged. I charged the battery and started to check my charging system (based on manual and Free power mod pages there on TT). Every tests passed except that I was unable to got any results for Voltage which needs to be between 1.4-1.5 V as described in the table (not sure if I was testing it wrong or not but every other values were within specified range). 

My main problem is that on idle battery shows 13.70 V but when I rev a little than it drops to 13.40 - 13.50. Manual shows  good is between 13.50  - 15 V in 5000 rpm. I go though wires and checks for connectors and use spray on it. All looks good. Then I was thinking doing free power mode, but before that I checked voltage from R/R right before connector and it shows 14 V in idle and 13.70 V in higher rpm so I assume by doing free power mode it will help just a little. 

Do you have any idea? Bad stator, bad R/R? Resistance and voltage passed test aswell.

[Noble]

There are several different ways to test the diodes in the regulator/rectifier (RR). The table above from the shop manual is probably accurate for the test instrument identified in the manual.  Otherwise follow the instructions for the test instrument you are using.  In my opinion the best way to test the diodes is a functional test.  A 12 volt light bulb and 12 volt battery.  The bulb either lights or is does not depending on test probe polarity. Obviously you want to see all the diodes pass current in the forward direction and block current in the reverse direction.

You should check battery voltage at the battery not elsewhere in the electrical system.  The voltages you report verify the rectifier diodes are all good. I suggest you do the "free Power mod" and you will see higher voltage at the battery. And I think the voltage drop you see on your test meter is normal for the reasons explained earlier in this thread.

[kufus]

Thanks Noble. I will probably do the FPM. I just want to make sure that my voltage just dropping due to transition resistance somewhere and not due to bad stator or whatewer. I will do the test once again before I ride and after its heated, if there is no much difference, then FPM will help me definitely.

[Erik Marquez]

6 hours ago, kufus said:

want to make sure that my voltage just dropping due to transition resistance somewhere and not due to bad stator or whatewer. 

Testing with a digital volt ohm meter (DVM). It only looks like the voltage is dropping when you rev up the engine, The DVM is "seeing" the chopped waveform being produced as the regulator is doing its job. At lower RPM's when the waveform is smooth the DVM is seeing steady DC voltage it is designed to measure...

If you have access to an O Scope, you can watch the whole thing happen and realize voltage is not really dropping as the DVM indicates.
Figured all this out when I started playing with different regulators for the DRZ to increase stator life... Steep learning curve for a mechanic and a new O scope toy...but learn I did.

Do the Free Power Mod, don't sweat the small measured voltage drop your seeing on the meter and go ride.

[kufus]

So I have tested charging after ride at it was the same so I assume my charging system is OK. So I did free power mod today and here are my results: 

Before idle: 14.10 V -> higher RPM 13.80 V; After FPM: 14:30 -> 14.20 V. => So I got additional 0.40 V in higher RMP, that's very nice!

Thanks both for help ?