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Just Bought 2004 Honda CR125R

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Picked this up yesterday from a coworker for $1200

 

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Needs Exhaust dents, and crack fixed ( FMF Fatty & shorty silencer). fork seals are weeping, Tires worn, jetting seems off alittle, has Vforce3 reed block,  but only tested the bike on a open dirt road. Trans shifts good.

Runs strong, but didnt check engine compression yet.

Previouse owner ran Klotz R50 Synthetic (lots of spooge coming out crack in pipe and out of end of silencer). Is this normal for Klotz? I Would like to run a premix that burns clean, i do like synthetics though.

Anyone got links or phone numbers for companies that fix dents and cracks in exhaust pipes? Had it done a couple times in the past and they came back looking great, but forgot the names of companies.  

I read some reviews from some old dirt bike magazines from 2004 and they liked everthing about this bike,  except the motor. They say the engine was weak compared to other manufacturers that year. What were the top mods/upgrades to get more power out of this motor?

Any helpful info would be great. Thanks

Edited by Orange Crush 500
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Klotz r-50 is good shit no castor so it doesn’t wreck the power valve, in my experience it burns pretty clean and smells good. The extra sponge could be from the jetting or if he was mixing at a lower ratio like 32:1 instead of like 50:1. Mix at what your manual says and then work on your jetting.

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11 minutes ago, RedEyedStranger said:

Klotz r-50 is good shit no castor so it doesn’t wreck the power valve, in my experience it burns pretty clean and smells good. The extra sponge could be from the jetting or if he was mixing at a lower ratio like 32:1 instead of like 50:1. Mix at what your manual says and then work on your jetting.

I usually run my Honda 2 Strokes at 32 to1, but I don't have a manual so I don't know what it calls 4.  But you are absolutely right I have no idea what's inside the carburetors as far as Jetting, 

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1 hour ago, RedEyedStranger said:

Klotz r-50 is good shit no castor so it doesn’t wreck the power valve, in my experience it burns pretty clean and smells good. The extra sponge could be from the jetting or if he was mixing at a lower ratio like 32:1 instead of like 50:1. Mix at what your manual says and then work on your jetting.

Mixing at a lower ratio should not make more spooge.

The way I think about it is consider all 3 components going into the carb: 1) fuel, 2) oil, and 3) air.  If you were to take a sample of this mixture going into the cylinder what fraction of each would exist?

The amount of air entering the carb isn’t being changed when you change the fuel/oil mix.  You’re only adjusting the fractions on the fuel and oil components, and both are changed relative to the air fraction.

Thus, a 32:1 has less fuel per unit of air which runs leaner.  A 50:1 has more fuel per unit of air causing it to run more rich.

Furthermore reducing oil in your mix makes the fuel/oil mixture a bit easier to travel through the carb, which also would make it run more rich.

This is my understanding of it at least, I’m sure someone will correct me if I am wrong.

 

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Mixing at a lower ratio should not make more spooge.



The way I think about it is consider all 3 components going into the carb: 1) fuel, 2) oil, and 3) air.  If you were to take a sample of this mixture going into the cylinder what fraction of each would exist?



The amount of air entering the carb isn’t being changed when you change the fuel/oil mix.  You’re only adjusting the fractions on the fuel and oil components, and both are changed relative to the air fraction.



Thus, a 32:1 has less fuel per unit of air which runs leaner.  A 50:1 has more fuel per unit of air causing it to run more rich.



Furthermore reducing oil in your mix makes the fuel/oil mixture a bit easier to travel through the carb, which also would make it run more rich.



This is my understanding of it at least, I’m sure someone will correct me if I am wrong.



 

Yeah totally right, I thought spooge was excess oil that wasn’t burned? From having too much oil in the mix?

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Oil premix ratio can be chosen by the migration time, meaning what are the max rpms the engine revs.

nice read:  https://www.maximausa.com/pdf/Oil Migration Sheet.pdf

 

MX ridden small bores 85/100/125 rev higher and work harder, hence more oil.

Larger 250's & 300's can safely run 40:1 for MX or even less oil when trail riding, but

their engines have stopped pulling by 8500rpms (85 & 125 are only just getting on the pipe at that rpm)

Carefully tuned trail ridden 125's can run 50:1 but unlike MX riding will rarely see any sustained high rpms.

 

Spooge is usually caused by rich jetting but also by picking the wrong premix oil for the application.

People insist on using a high flash point 'racing' premix in an engine that isn't pushed hard enough.

Casual / trail riders say they push their engine hard but, in reality only hit the redline on occasion,

it just isn't the same as accelerating hard WOT corner to corner on an MX race track lap after lap after lap.

 

Take Amsoil Interceptor (low flash point) and Dominator (racing/high flash point) as an example.

 

My very crisply jetted MX track ridden YZ125 runs super clean on Interceptor, no spooge whatsover, the silencer's tip is practically dry.

(I'm on my 6th season on the original cylinder plating, the bottom end has never been split)

I do push hard thru the gears reaching overrev at least twice a lap but I'm no pro racer, just a recreational rider.

 

Using the same settings but simply switching to Dominator, within 20 minutes there is already signs of spooge at

the pipe's joints and silencer's tip as my engine's combustion temps aren't hot enough to burn off the excess of that 'racing' oil.

 

Add that many tend to jet 'rich' just to be safe (also leaving some potential power on the table)

that extra fuel cools engine internals and lowers combustion temps making their engine even more prone to spooge on 'racing' premix.

Edited by mlatour

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3 hours ago, RedEyedStranger said:


Yeah totally right, I thought spooge was excess oil that wasn’t burned? From having too much oil in the mix?

Yes that’s what I refer to spooge as.  But no it’s not from having too much oil in the mix, it’s usually caused by improper jetting or an improperly maintenanced engine.

Having said that I’m having my own spooge problem that I’ve been working on for a while now so I may not be the best person to take notes from.  But I’m learning.

 

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On 7/20/2018 at 2:45 AM, frdbtr said:

Pacific crest pipe repair.  You pipe will come back looking new. Nice pickup for $1200. 

Ok i checked out there website, and it looks like a great pipe repair company, BUT there in Oregon and im in NJ. Its a 7 day estimated shipping time each way,  and thats week days. So thats 3 weeks just in shipping time. Plus my estimation of them having the pipe for a week, hopefully not more than that, so thats like 4 weeks without my pipe, In prime time riding season. 

Does anyone know of any other pipe repair companies? Thanks

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11 hours ago, Orange Crush 500 said:

Ok i checked out there website, and it looks like a great pipe repair company, BUT there in Oregon and im in NJ. Its a 7 day estimated shipping time each way,  and thats week days. So thats 3 weeks just in shipping time. Plus my estimation of them having the pipe for a week, hopefully not more than that, so thats like 4 weeks without my pipe, In prime time riding season. 

Does anyone know of any other pipe repair companies? Thanks

A couple months ago I got T-boned then run over in a race and it bent my new FMF pipe.  I found Pacific Crest Pipe Repair and got it all packaged up to send off.  The cheapest I could ship it there to Oregon from Texas was about $80.  So I just ordered a brand new pipe and will send my damaged pipe in later.  Now I’ll always have 2 to rotate out and hopefully will never be down waiting on a repair.

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$80 just to ship?, because PCPR wants $60 to fix the pipe, and $20 to ship back to me, $80 total. If it cost me atleast $80 to ship to him, thats atleast $160, i can buy a now pipe for $200 to $220 shipped to my door. If it's going to cost $160 to go to PCPR and fix my used pipe, I would just buy two brand new ones if i wanted to have a spare and go that route. No brainer to just buy atleast 1 brand new one and trash my old 1.

Going to check my shipping charges 2 PCPR, 1st

Edited by Orange Crush 500
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4 hours ago, Orange Crush 500 said:

$80 just to ship?, because PCPR wants $60 to fix the pipe, and $20 to ship back to me, $80 total. If it cost me atleast $80 to ship to him, thats atleast $160, i can buy a now pipe for $200 to $220 shipped to my door. If it's going to cost $160 to go to PCPR and fix my used pipe, I would just buy two brand new ones if i wanted to have a spare and go that route. No brainer to just buy atleast 1 brand new one and trash my old 1.

Going to check my shipping charges 2 PCPR, 1st

Let me know what you come up with.  I’m going to try a smaller box and try shipping it from another post office on the other side of Texas when I’m there next time, I’ll let you know if I get it down any cheaper.

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Ok i checked out there website, and it looks like a great pipe repair company, BUT there in Oregon and im in NJ. Its a 7 day estimated shipping time each way,  and thats week days. So thats 3 weeks just in shipping time. Plus my estimation of them having the pipe for a week, hopefully not more than that, so thats like 4 weeks without my pipe, In prime time riding season. 
Does anyone know of any other pipe repair companies? Thanks

Try fusion one repair in CT probably gonna send mine out this winter

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