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Over torqued drain bolt


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7 minutes ago, Kioti said:

Some should not use tools on things they know nothing about.The drain for the side case is to the lower left, the one you "over torqued" is were oil pressure is checked.

New side case is required.

 

Must be nice to be the smartest person in the forum having been born with all the worlds knowledge, congrats...... The rest of us learned as we went, having started from nothing and grew , learned along the way

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1 hour ago, gabrielcash said:

Overtorqued her. So from what I remember from other dudes doing this I'm looking at JB Weld.

Which one am I looking for and I'm assuming I wanna clean it up with brake cleaner first?

 

If you have a better solution/suggestions I'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

20180721_183042.jpg

@gabrielcash Good news. While it was a mistake to over tighten it, and a mistake to drain the filter and oil galley from the pressure check bolt... The fix is much less $$$ then if it had been the drain bolt and broken cases.

a new side cover that can be installed at home in the driveway by most anyone and your all good to go.

5b53ce2a3f700_shoppinglist.jpg.347a51d44b5a04b2da953ec8ce0b7067.jpg

 

The above shopping list includes a new check valve seat,,,,, recommended as long as your in there, but not required.

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3 minutes ago, HeavyRotation said:

Since its just a check bolt I'd clean it out with brake clean and finger thread the bolt back in after smearing the bolt threads with jb weld like you would with loctite. Let it cure and see if you can get away with riding it until it needs a rebuild. That sucks.

He did not bust the cases, just the side case cover ?

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11 minutes ago, gabrielcash said:

I drain through the drain bolts on the bottom and get the little bit left with that bolt. Took about 15 changes for this to happen. 

Erik do you think I could get away with jb weld till I get a new cover? This is my daily driver.

Maybe... JB weld and I have a love hate relationship.. When I need it to work it fails, when it would just be convenient it works it does.

Try it, clean, dry, clean, dry, CLEAN it again oil free, use a paper towel if you get any signs of oil, clean with brake clean again....

Id drain the oil, then lean it over on its side to do all that....  I would use enough epoxy to not just "glue" it back together, but so that there was a small thin "cap" or plug of  epoxy in that drain hole above the drain bolt after it is screwed back in place.

Then let cure the entire recommended MAXIMUM time before you even think about touching the bike again,,,,,, do not be tempted to fiddle with it to check or add oil, I would literally walk away from it till fully cured.
After that time has passed, see if with just fingers it feels secure,,If so,, fill with oil and start, check for leaks....... After that, monitor it like a hawk looking for a mouse mid harsh winter.....
Add a drain plug bolt to your shopping list..dont reuse the one glued on place.

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2 hours ago, gabrielcash said:

Overtorqued her. So from what I remember from other dudes doing this I'm looking at JB Weld.

Which one am I looking for and I'm assuming I wanna clean it up with brake cleaner first?

 

If you have a better solution/suggestions I'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

20180721_183042.jpg

Man, look at how chowdered the corners of the bolt are. ?

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Overtorqued her. So from what I remember from other dudes doing this I'm looking at JB Weld.
Which one am I looking for and I'm assuming I wanna clean it up with brake cleaner first?
 
If you have a better solution/suggestions I'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
20180721_183042.thumb.jpg.570830801a164c28d0dad5a3fe7f0629.jpg

Just get a new side case it’s not that hard to switch out and they can be bought used on eBay for pretty cheap.
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My 2 cents:  I would go for the proper fix rather than a Redneck Repair. :lame:

Murphy says it will fail at a bad time, and maybe even spray oil under the motor where you will get a well lubed rear tire.?

 

Save the JB for short term emergency repairs.?

Edited by BluePill
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Since this is something you potentially do every month I say replace the side cover. Not like you have to split the cases. Not a bad job. Get you a decent 1/4” or 3/8” drive torque wrench though. If you’re not sensitive to the click type get you a dial (cheap) or digital (pricey) one! Good luck!

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2 hours ago, PapoC915 said:

Since this is something you potentially do every month I say replace the side cover. Not like you have to split the cases. Not a bad job. Get you a decent 1/4” or 3/8” drive torque wrench though. If you’re not sensitive to the click type get you a dial (cheap) or digital (pricey) one! Good luck!

Why is this something that would be done every month?

I think OP learned their lesson and will use the actual drain plug next time.  And yes I second a torque wrench.  If you are over-tightening, make sure you are using either a new or annealed sealing washer since maybe you are over tightening to compensate for a leak?

Edited by mbrick
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35 minutes ago, mbrick said:

Why is this something that would be done every month?

I think OP learned their lesson and will use the actual drain plug next time.  And yes I second a torque wrench.  If you are over-tightening, make sure you are using either a new or annealed sealing washer since maybe you are over tightening to compensate for a leak?

He quoted: “overtorqued drain bolt” in the original post. Didn’t realize that he didn’t know where his drain plug was. I change my bike’s (YZ250) every 2 or 3 rides so every couple of weeks maybe a month tops. 

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Just now, PapoC915 said:

He quoted: “overtorqued drain bolt” in the original post. Didn’t realize that he didn’t know where his drain plug was. I change my bike’s (YZ250) every 2 or 3 rides so every couple of weeks maybe a month tops. 

Yes, hopefully he uses a torque wrench on the correct drain bolt, because those can also crack from being over-torqued...  I change the oil in my bike every 10 hours which usually equates to 2-3 rides as well.

Edited by mbrick
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