2004 Suzuki Rm-Z250 carburetor problems. Please help.

[alexhoneycutt]

I have a 2004 Rm-Z250. I bought it off a guy for $700 because he didn't want to deal with it anymore. He put a new crank and piston in and still couldn't get it going. I brought it home and did a compression check and it read 60. which is low, I know. So I took it apart and looked and the cylinder and it had some pretty good scratches in it. I honed it for about 15 Seconds and threw it back together and kicked the hell out of it and nothing. I pulled the spark plug out to check the compression and the plug was saturated in oil. I was getting blow by. so I bought a new cylinder and just threw it on and that fixed the blow by. So then I tried to start it and it was giving me a really hard time and wouldn't start so I checked the plug to see if it was shot. It had a decent amount of carbon build up so I threw a new one in. It was wanted to start when I did that. I started to feather the throttle a little to try to help it and it fired up. not every time but about once every 10-20 kicks. So after going through the entire bottom end and top end, the only thing i'm left with is the carb. The bike wont idle and I gave it a little ride and its not running too hot so I believe something is wrong with the carb. I cleaned the jets too. I just took it apart and the O ring on the throttle slide is broken and I am going to throw a new on on but I feel like there is more to it than that. especially with it being so hard to start. There is also a knob on the bottom of the float bowl with numbers on it. Numbered 1-4. I attached an image so you can see what I am talking about. I've looked at the manual and at tons of carbs and have no clue what it is. If anyone could help me out it would be greatly appreciated. 

 

Thanks, Alex  

[William1]

Replace the carb 'oring' (actually, it is called the vacuum release seal). The screw on the bottom is an adjustable fuel screw, used for setting idle mix. Starting point is 1.5 turns from gently closed. Make sure the spring, washer and oring are on it. Also confirm all passageways are 100% clear.

[FORMA MOTO]

https://www.dirtrider.com/features/protips/141_0707_keihin_fcr_carb_rebuild/

[alexhoneycutt]

@William1 I did all that today.  I doesn’t even want to start at all now. Just kicked it about 50 times and didn’t even sound like it wanted to go. Not sure what to do now. 

[William1]

7 minutes ago, alexhoneycutt said:

@William1 I did all that today.  I doesn’t even want to start at all now. Just kicked it about 50 times and didn’t even sound like it wanted to go. Not sure what to do now. 

Slide release plate on square side down? Most manuals show it upside down, for some reason.

Fresh plug?

[alexhoneycutt]

@William1 I got it running! Thank you for your help. So after going through all that I started to go through everything again and be slower and more thorough this time. The wire going to the ignition coil was cut. It was taped together really bad so sometimes it got spark and other times it didn’t. I re wired the cable properly and it fires up first kick now. 

 

Thank you again for your help.

- Alex 

This is how it was. I took the tape off and it was put together like crap. 

[William1]

That is pretty hacked up. You should take the time to ensure all connections are top notch with proper connectors.

Good for you to of solved the mystery!

[alexhoneycutt]

That is pretty hacked up. You should take the time to ensure all connections are top notch with proper connectors.
Good for you to of solved the mystery!

I think what I’ll do do make sure the electrical is top notch and to avoid further problems is just buy a new harness and ignition coil. Then when I get my next check I’ll buy a new stator because the ground off the stator is also cut. Probably run me around $400 total. I know I could just twist the wires and shrink tube it but I don’t even want to have to worry about that being a problem anymore. Just do a one and done thing.