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Any 701 clutch slave failures?

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I got a new 2018 701 this week to go with my 2017 501.  I went through the clutch slave issue with the 501 when I first got it.  Today I saw some comments on ADVrider where 701 owners were replacing the stock clutch slave with an Oberon.  When I did a search on Oberon 701 clutch slave I was surprised to find out that the 501 and 701 take the same replacement slave.  So I'm wondering if others have any experience with 701 clutch slave failures.

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Thanks for the reply.  I figured it would have the same problem when I first looked at it.  So I ordered an Oberon which should be here any day now.

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Yes, my bike too. Before 4000km the piston sealing broke.
It,s a 2018 still under warranty, but no new cylinders in stock.

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This is obviously a Magura issue. Why doesn't Husq hold their suppliers responsible for obviously faulty parts. It should just be a slave piston o-ring needing replacement. Dealers should be swapping these for free.

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Ugh.  My '18 701 slave just gave up the ghost at around the 600mi mark.  Wish I would've seen this thread earler.  Probably still would've purchased the bike, but at least I would've known it was coming ?  Just ordered the Rekluse slave, so hopefully that will last muuuch longer than 600mi...

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I have a 2017 husky 701, which has had no issues, no major mods made, regular maintenance done. I didn't know about the slave cylinder issue until mine went out on a ride during some extended hill climbs. Because the leak was relatively slow on the seal on the slave cylinder, and the rough conditions  I didn't notice it right away. Hindsight I shouldn't have kept pushing to get up the last stretch of the mtn. After getting the bike home by truck I found the damaged slave cylinder. I checked the clutch pack as well which was trashed, part because it's the original clutch pack and experienced some usual wear, but I'm certain trying to climb hills with a poorly functioning slave cylinder did most of the damage. I got a new clutch pack and a rekluse slave cylinder and changed the oil. After getting them on and going on some short mild test rides I found that the bike didn't quite feel right. I tired to bleed the slave a few more times and even opened the clutch cover just to make sure everything looked alright, no change. Before all this I found that the clutch would engage and the engine would begin spin freely at around 50-60% of the travel of the clutch lever very reliably. And shifting up or down cleanly at that same mark. Now I find that the clutch starts to engage at 25-50% of the travel of the lever, but the shifting isn't smooth until I have the clutch lever bottomed out, especially when shifting down. Its as if I have to put a little down pressure on the shift pedal with the clutch engaged and wait for it to drop into gear. Additionally it's been a touch harder to find neutral.  I had one friend who also rides and he thought it might just be that the new clutch pack will settle once its been broken in a bit and the issue will resolve. I can get used to riding like this if that's just how it's going to be with this combo of slave cylinder and clutch pack. I just wanted to get some more thoughts on if there might be a bigger issue, things that I need to look into etc.

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I have no personal experience with this information, but I have read numerous reports on other forums that the Rekluse slave cylinder ONLY functions properly when using the Rekluse Clutch assembly.  I cannot confirm this information.  I put a dial indicator on my clutch pack and with the factory slave, it disengages about .065"  I have the Husqy service manual. but it does not give actual disengagement measurements.  Good luck.

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I don't think that they've upgraded the design over the years. There is a plastic part in there that wears out eventually that causes the leak. I had my 2010's stock 690's clutch slave totally fail at 110 km/h in 6th and that was interesting trying to get the bike stopped to make the off ramp then the red light that followed the off ramp.

I upgraded to the Oberon, slightly reduced pull effort with their design, great fit and quality. 

 

My advice is to ride it as is and then if it fails, upgrade then.

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My 2018 701 slave went out this weekend I think.  Anyone know if there is a seal between the slave cylinder and the crankcase?  If there is only the one on the slave then the clutch fluid went into the crankcase, which is bad news I assume.  I rode a good amount of slab before the clutch lever showed problems.  Gonna go talk with a local dealer tomorrow.

 

all of you that had a slave failure did you inquire about brake fluid getting into your crankcase?

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Posted (edited)

Yes a little can get past the piston but you don't have to worry about it. You caught it early if the clutch was still functioning enough to get home. From here on in it goes downhill fast. Probably fail on your next few rides depending on use.

Theres little point in replacing with stock, get the Oberon one (mine was awesome), install it, and then do an oil and filter change on the engine, and you're good to go.

Edited by Kwota

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6 hours ago, Kwota said:

Yes a little can get past the piston but you don't have to worry about it. You caught it early if the clutch was still functioning enough to get home. From here on in it goes downhill fast. Probably fail on your next few rides depending on use.

Theres little point in replacing with stock, get the Oberon one (mine was awesome), install it, and then do an oil and filter change on the engine, and you're good to go.

Sorry maybe I was not very clear.  At the end of my hour or so long freeway run I stopped by the gas station and the clutch would not work at all.  Popped the reservoir cover and all my fluid was gone.  Had to have my buddy go get the rig so we could load it up and get it home.  What worries me is the long freeway run with that fluid going in there.  

since I am still under warranty I have not tore it apart, worried that they may use that against me since I am not an “authorized dealer” lol.  Since you have done yours, is there another seal, besides the one that fails, between the oil and the clutch fluid?  Like maybe one around the push rod? 

Lastly would you be worried if yours had failed in the middle of a couple hour freeway run?  Or since you have replaced yours, and seen all the insides, do you believe that not alot can get by the pushrod anyway and therefore the freeway run probably wasnt that bad?

thank you for your insight.  Oh and I have an oberon on the way as we speak, thanks again!

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17 hours ago, Clayton Bigsby said:

Sorry maybe I was not very clear.  At the end of my hour or so long freeway run I stopped by the gas station and the clutch would not work at all.  Popped the reservoir cover and all my fluid was gone.  Had to have my buddy go get the rig so we could load it up and get it home.  What worries me is the long freeway run with that fluid going in there.  

since I am still under warranty I have not tore it apart, worried that they may use that against me since I am not an “authorized dealer” lol.  Since you have done yours, is there another seal, besides the one that fails, between the oil and the clutch fluid?  Like maybe one around the push rod? 

Lastly would you be worried if yours had failed in the middle of a couple hour freeway run?  Or since you have replaced yours, and seen all the insides, do you believe that not alot can get by the pushrod anyway and therefore the freeway run probably wasnt that bad?

thank you for your insight.  Oh and I have an oberon on the way as we speak, thanks again!

No thats it. Look up the parts diagram. I think most of mine leaked out of the bike when it went as it was mixing with my chain lube and making this weird fluid that made me think that my countershaft seal was misting, which it was since i had swapped to an aftermarket thinner front sprocket (stay stock with front sprocket changes as the thickness is needed to keep pressure on the inner and outer seals)

 

Well if you opened up the reservoir cover, you know its just a thimble's worth of fluid in there... thats not much in comparison to the engine oil capacity - something like about 2L, so its not going to do much harm, if any. I used to do all the work on my old 2010 690smc, but that had the single spark head without the new counterbalancer in it so it needed more frequent valve adjustments, but based on what i've seen in there i would just gain peace of mind by changing oil and filters once you've installed the oberon.  I suggest trying to pre-fill the Oberon line when you install it to save bleeding it, but you should still tie it off the lever overnight to get any last bubbles out. You'll find slightly better action at the lever too.  lots of happy 690 oberon owners, you won't be disappointed. Match fluid to what the reservoir cover says. 

 

 

 

 

Oh and mine totally failed, like dead floppy lever and stiff foot shifter, right before a big bridge uphill at speed in traffic; i didn't know what would happen so i kicked it up to 6th and rolled on the gas to at least get to the top of the bridge, which i managed to do, but getting it stopped from mid rpm in 6th for the red light after the first off ramp was interesting, as i'm sure you discovered recently.

Call and discuss with your dealer's service manager. I called to check what would happen with my 2019 smc's warranty when I swapped out the bike's battery to Antigravity's new lithium ion battery (to drop ~10 lbs and have about double the amps) and they said fine, no warranty issue. i don't imagine that swapping out to another slave will void your warranty, but if you're worried, call and discuss first.

 

 

If you want to see exactly whats going on in there, you can find the 690 engine parts fishe here:  https://sparepartsfinder.ktm.com/

Edited by Kwota

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Thank you for your insight, I really appreciate it.  I was thinking much the same as you, the solution to pollution is dilution.  Since so little is in there it should be ok.

But dot 4 or 5.1 is terrible on any rubber that is not of the right compound.  Eats it up like crazy.  But hopefully in its diluted state it did no harm to any seals on the oil only side.

the bike is in the shop to replace under warranty and I made sure they also provided and oil change with that.  All that being said, I still plan on dumping that oil a few times over the next 100 or so miles to make sure the system is flushed completely.

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11 hours ago, Clayton Bigsby said:

Thank you for your insight, I really appreciate it.  I was thinking much the same as you, the solution to pollution is dilution.  Since so little is in there it should be ok.

But dot 4 or 5.1 is terrible on any rubber that is not of the right compound.  Eats it up like crazy.  But hopefully in its diluted state it did no harm to any seals on the oil only side.

the bike is in the shop to replace under warranty and I made sure they also provided and oil change with that.  All that being said, I still plan on dumping that oil a few times over the next 100 or so miles to make sure the system is flushed completely.

I wouldn't bother with additional oil changes. one oil change is enough.

so you don't feel like you ruined your engine, high rpm riding generates a lot of piston blow-by so you need to top it up occasionally. make sure you get some more of whatever oil that they're changing it with for the top ups when you pick it up... shifting gets notchy when its low. 

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I have had a new clutch piston for 7000km. No problems so far. Better rubber I Think. The old broken one  did I repar by putting an O-ring insted of the piston ring. I´t was a temporary repair.

It didn´t work 100%. Some air was came in the hydralic system. 

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