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Plug and play on/off switch to replace keyed Ignition switch? (DRZ400SM

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Hi,

does anyone know of a plug and play option on/off switch that could be used to be replace the keyed Ignition plug? If not, how difficult would it be to splice the Ignition wires into an on off switch?

 

thanks

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Use the kill switch for the key
Put the two wires for the kill switch together then wire the key to the switch. There’s no point on having both.

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4 hours ago, drzematt said:

Use the kill switch for the key
Put the two wires for the kill switch together then wire the key to the switch. There’s no point on having both.

Could you explain in further detail. I see that the ignition leads to a 4 wire plug in. This consist of orange, red, brown? And green

image.jpg

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There’s two wires coming from the kill switch cut both wires.
Put those wires together. Then you have a switch. Put the red wire from the key to the wire on the switch then put the rest of the wires from key to the other wire from the switch.

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You will have to get a soldering iron to put the wires together and some electrical tape or heat shrink tubing it’s a lot easier than it sounds

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34 minutes ago, drzematt said:

You will have to get a soldering iron to put the wires together and some electrical tape or heat shrink tubing it’s a lot easier than it sounds

I happen to have all those items. Could you draw a diagram and post it? 

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I’m bad at drawing very simple put the kill switch wires together then red wire from key to switch then all the other key wires to other wire on switch

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I think what is meant is this;  There are two wires running out of the kill switch.  You cut these  with enough wire off the switch to make connections with.  The ends of the cut wires running into the harness away from the switch are joined together properly (soldered and heat shrink tubing).   Now you have the two cut wires coming off of the kill switch itself.  The red wire from the keyed ignition switch goes to (either one) and all the other wires from the keyed ignition switch goes to the remaining one.  

So the kill switch becomes the ignition switch like when you turn the key on. The starter button works normally.   Not sure how all this would affect the parking light.

Edited by pine_marten

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5 hours ago, pine_marten said:

I think what is meant is this;  There are two wires running out of the kill switch.  You cut these  with enough wire off the switch to make connections with.  The ends of the cut wires running into the harness away from the switch are joined together properly (soldered and heat shrink tubing).   Now you have the two cut wires coming off of the kill switch itself.  The red wire from the keyed ignition switch goes to (either one) and all the other wires from the keyed ignition switch goes to the remaining one.  

So the kill switch becomes the ignition switch like when you turn the key on. The starter button works normally.   Not sure how all this would affect the parking light.

Yeah this makes sense. I was hoping there was a 4 pin connector light switch or something that could go directly into the ignition plug that way I didn’t have to cut into the wires of the ignition and kill/start switch. Still awaiting for more ideas before I start cutting.

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2 hours ago, T1Delaney said:

Yeah this makes sense. I was hoping there was a 4 pin connector light switch or something that could go directly into the ignition plug that way I didn’t have to cut into the wires of the ignition and kill/start switch. Still awaiting for more ideas before I start cutting.

Well, you could hunt up an oem connector and pins like the one on the ignition module and then using a different after market switch located somewhere out of sight wire this switch up like you would have the kill switch.  No cutting into the wiring harness then.  Maybe 12'oclock Labs would help you if you gave the a call.

Edited by pine_marten

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5 hours ago, bumtarder said:

Seems like instructions to wire a stolen bike imho.

I added Pro Taper bars to my DRZ and had to work on relocating the ignition switch.  I rather like the idea of a simple sereptitious ignition switch but I would not cut the loom to do it.  I do not think the OP has anything nefarious in mind.

Edited by pine_marten

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5 hours ago, pine_marten said:

I added Pro Taper bars to my DRZ and had to work on relocating the ignition switch.  I rather like the idea of a simple sereptitious ignition switch but I would not cut the loom to do it.  I do not think the OP has anything nefarious in mind.

I too updated my bars to tapered ones a very long time ago and just fabricated a oem style switch mount to work directly with the new top clamp and painted it to match then everything hooked up and worked like before.

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Seems like instructions to wire a stolen bike imho.
Good point!

Why do you want to remove the key? While nothing will deter a motivated thief the key stops the lazy and even friends from going for a ride without your permission.

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I added Pro Taper bars to my DRZ and had to work on relocating the ignition switch.  I rather like the idea of a simple sereptitious ignition switch but I would not cut the loom to do it.  I do not think the OP has anything nefarious in mind.
Seems rather over complicated if you think about it. An on /off switch that kills the ignition while still keeping the functionality of key switch?

The 08 and later SM's have oversized bars, there are factory solutions.

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I think what is meant is this;  There are two wires running out of the kill switch.  You cut these  with enough wire off the switch to make connections with.  The ends of the cut wires running into the harness away from the switch are joined together properly (soldered and heat shrink tubing).   Now you have the two cut wires coming off of the kill switch itself.  The red wire from the keyed ignition switch goes to (either one) and all the other wires from the keyed ignition switch goes to the remaining one.  

So the kill switch becomes the ignition switch like when you turn the key on. The starter button works normally.   Not sure how all this would affect the parking light.

And now you have lost the ability to kill the engine without killing the lights. You have also lost the parking light only option.

 

To eliminate the key switch you would need to replace it with another 3 position switch to retain stock functions. I see no benefit to that.

 

 

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They sell a plug that you can insert the ignition connector into. Then you just have to hit the start button to wake the machine up.

Plug sells for about $6.

Google (your bike here) ignition eliminator plug

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5 hours ago, bumtarder said:

I too updated my bars to tapered ones a very long time ago and just fabricated a oem style switch mount to work directly with the new top clamp and painted it to match then everything hooked up and worked like before.

 

20 minutes ago, Husquire said:

They sell a plug that you can insert the ignition connector into. Then you just have to hit the start button to wake the machine up.

Plug sells for about $6.

Google (your bike here) ignition eliminator plug

I couldn’t find one for the DRZ. I wonder if this KTM one would work

 

https://www.ktm-parts.com/78111999000.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw_b3cBRByEiwAdG8WqrGDI06ZCMG-krtHTNuYbHNgrtxIkqofDHl8NyraPGXhR4NFVEgKqRoCXPsQAvD_BwE

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Not a chance.

The way the DRZ is wired you would need at least a 2 way switch to replace the key switch or do some major rewiring.

If location is your issue some people relocate the key switch from the bar clamp to triple clamp




Screenshot_20180905-190949.jpeg

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