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Carb drain screw

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Does anybody know a company that sells tool free carburetor drain screws for a 2005 Suzuki drz 400, thanks for replying 

Edited by Doug silva
Forgot type of bike
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Free? No, nothing is free. I have to ask why? Draining a carb is something you might do once a year.

The drain screw on your BSR is a special tapered one. I've never seen a thumb screw for one.

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The reason why is, I live on utila, a tiny island off the coast of Honduras, the quality of the fuel sucks hear, it's common to buy fuel with a bit of water in it, so, that's why I am searching for a tool less carb drain screw.

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Great idea, but I don't own a brazing torch/gas setup and there are no machine shopshop on the island, I will find one, I feel confident that someone in the thumper talk world will let me know where I can purchase one 

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I want one for my CRF150R because it clogs easily if gas is left sitting. Couldn't find one. Probably just going to find a way to store a small screwdriver on the bike.

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Jjktmrider, did you get my PM?

 

if this is for the 36mm mikuni bsr, I would be interested in 1 too, just because

Edited by 74jimbo

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5 hours ago, jjktmrider said:

I'll look into making a couple if enough interest , otherwise I have more time programming for 1 minute per part making .

 

.

Great idea, I will like 4 please, the screw probably fits many different carbs 

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Fitting a few carbs is what I was thinking of checking out , hopefully many of the Mikuni's will be the same , fcrs will be different being a Keihin but are they the same as the CVK's , would be annoying if they all were different .  I have to think on something to make sure they can be tightened enough and stay there , don't know if a thumb screw knob will work and I don't want to be involved with a burnt up bike .

 

Jimbo I pm'd back the first message already .

 

.

Edited by jjktmrider
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5 minutes ago, jjktmrider said:

Fitting a few carbs is what I was thinking of checking out , hopefully many of the Mikuni's will be the same , fcrs will be different being a Keihin but are they the same as the CVK's , would be annoying if they all were different .  I have to think on something to make sure they can be tightened enough and stay there , don't know if a thumb screw knob will work and I don't want to be involved with a burnt up bike .

 

Jimbo I pm'd back the first message already .

 

.

Maybe something similar to a wing nut would work good,  a wing screw? 

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1 hour ago, jjktmrider said:

Jimbo I pm'd back the first message already .

2

I think my PM system is jacked up. I never got a response from you? Also, when I tried to send them, they did not seem to work right, or maybe they did? but my end only showed my name involved in the conversation

Edited by 74jimbo

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1 hour ago, jjktmrider said:

.  I have to think on something to make sure they can be tightened enough and stay there , don't know if a thumb screw knob will work and I don't want to be involved with a burnt up bike .

If the screw had a head of about 12mm, was knurled it would easily be tightened securely. It takes very little pressure with a screw driver to tighten the screw ..its just a tapered seat.. Most folks over tighten them from what i see when I try and remove them.

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5 hours ago, Erik Marquez said:

If the screw had a head of about 12mm, was knurled it would easily be tightened securely. It takes very little pressure with a screw driver to tighten the screw ..its just a tapered seat.. Most folks over tighten them from what i see when I try and remove them.

Agree, most people over tighten them 

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Problem is when a person gets one that's been deformed from being overtightened , only way to seal them is by going tighter because the taper is already deformed. On my atv's/bikes that were bought new it's easy , but a lot used ones can be just snugged down normally and not drip , the older the bike ,the worse, even with new screws , which are usually a must due to messed up JIS or screwdriver slots from PO's . Now to make something to seal good enough just using fingertips , I know many that it would take more or be at the threshold of dripping with just a (13mm)1/2" knurled end . Then I have all those complaints of leaking or worse , almost need a preform tool to make the taper true again , then the drain screw. I have a pile of old carbs here , will have to play with some things , maybe a plastic tip or rubber at worst .

 

.

Edited by jjktmrider

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1 minute ago, jjktmrider said:

Problem is when a person gets one that's been deformed from being overtightened , only way to seal them is by going tighter because the taper is already deformed. On my atv's/bikes that were bought new it's easy , but very few used ones can be just snugged down and not drip , the older the worse, even with new screws , which are usually a must due to messed up JIS or screwdriver slots from PO's . Now to make something to seal good enough just using fingertips , I know many that it would take more or be at the threshold of dripping with just a 1/2" knurled end . Then I have all those complaints of leaking or worse , almost need a preform tool to make the taper true again , then the drain screw. I have a pile of old carbs here , will have to play with some things , maybe a plastic tip or rubber at worst .

 

.

Make it from 1/2 hard brass and it will seal.
Cant say I have had many at all of any brand, style or year that I had to "over" tighten to seal using a fresh drain screw.. I only work on a dozen or so bikes a week, so perhaps Im just not seeing these really bad ones that have to be torqued down to seal...but if I did, I wouldn't in any case, as if its not sealing with "normal" tq, its broke and needs to be repaired. .

When I do have one that leak with a new seal I clean the taper up in the carb body and sealing is again done with just light pressure.

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1 hour ago, Erik Marquez said:

Make it from 1/2 hard brass and it will seal.
Cant say I have had many at all of any brand, style or year that I had to "over" tighten to seal using a fresh drain screw.. I only work on a dozen or so bikes a week, so perhaps Im just not seeing these really bad ones that have to be torqued down to seal...but if I did, I wouldn't in any case, as if its not sealing with "normal" tq, its broke and needs to be repaired. .

When I do have one that leak with a new seal I clean the taper up in the carb body and sealing is again done with just light pressure.

I can buy a thumbscrew carb drain for the old Honda QA / mini trail 50, but don't know if will fit a stock drz carb, and people thanks for the ideas so far, please keep your thinking caps on 

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Keep it simple - Cable tie the correct screwdriver inside your airbox or behind headlight etc.  or anywhere it isn't going to fall off. Make sure u can still remove screwdriver without having to cut the cable tie. Then you will always have it when you need it.

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if a klx250s part will fit (.6 x .75mm)  it uses a socket head.  Would be easy to cut down an allen wrench "L" and weld or epoxy it in for a handle ? 

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