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300RR massive vibration from footpegs, do you get them?


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51 minutes ago, kawagumby said:

My Xtrainer 300 only has noticeable vibes at idle - when compared to either of my YZ125's, or my KDX200 it feels the same while riding - and I use thin-soled Forma Terra boots.  I'd say something is up with that bike.

I have fixed bad vibrating smokers several times by just tightening the engine mounts bolts - and that vibration was usually at mid to higher rpm's.   Back in the day, that was a common problem with open class two-strokes and the softer bolts (that stretched easily) that came with the bikes.

Well the manual says engine to frame bolts need to be 45nm, swingarm pivot is I think 100nm. My impact socket wont fit in the swing arm one, but I looked at the two engine to frame bolts and one was around 20nm, I tightened that one to spec. Will see if it helped.

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On 9/10/2018 at 4:59 PM, digitalzombie said:

My 18 300RR has normal hand numbing vibration at high rpms at the bar, however on top of that the pegs vibrate so much that they put my foot to sleep. I read some older threads on this and people who complained about this got two kinds of advice. 

1) its normal

2) its not normal, engine or exhaust mount could be loose

However I none of the threads I have read concluded with someone saying oh yeah my engine mount was loose I tightened and it went away, so looking for some input. 

 

Edit : I emailed Beta USA and they also said that they don't get complaints about that so check the engine mount bolts.

Just wondering.. What bikes have you been riding before this 300?

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All 300s vibrate more than 250s and certainly more than 4strokes.  Some more than others due to mfg. tolerances.  I've ridden a few different Beta 300s and KTMs as well.  All different but only the '16  KTM obnoxious.  I wouldn't worry about it, you don't have a bad crank.  Just loosen all your motor mounts, and retorque starting at the swingarm pivot and ending at the head stay.  The manual has some crazy torque values that will have you stripping some threads, I posted a revised torque table over on Betariders a long time ago.  

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Thing is, beta guys think it's normal but they do vibrate horrendously in fact more than any other 2t. Sometimes worse than a weed whacker. 

I'm thinking it has something to do with betas non balanced cranks, no counter balance, and massively loose production tolerances.

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10 hours ago, Dirt Mcgurt said:

Thing is, beta guys think it's normal but they do vibrate horrendously in fact more than any other 2t. Sometimes worse than a weed whacker. 

I'm thinking it has something to do with betas non balanced cranks, no counter balance, and massively loose production tolerances.

My KTM 250 EXC vibrated a lot more, than my Beta X-Trainer 300. 

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10 hours ago, Dirt Mcgurt said:

Thing is, beta guys think it's normal but they do vibrate horrendously in fact more than any other 2t. Sometimes worse than a weed whacker. 

I'm thinking it has something to do with betas non balanced cranks, no counter balance, and massively loose production tolerances.

That's not the case. Beta vibrates less than any other 2 stroke 'xcept the counterbalanced ktms (whose exhaust vibrates terribly after some use). 

16 hours ago, GP said:

All 300s vibrate more than 250s and certainly more than 4strokes.  Some more than others due to mfg. tolerances.  I've ridden a few different Beta 300s and KTMs as well.  All different but only the '16  KTM obnoxious.  I wouldn't worry about it, you don't have a bad crank.  Just loosen all your motor mounts, and retorque starting at the swingarm pivot and ending at the head stay.  The manual has some crazy torque values that will have you stripping some threads, I posted a revised torque table over on Betariders a long time ago.  

Do as GP says. Good idea also would be to grease the engine mount bolts. This will minimize crust formation after riding  in wet places. Use the revised torque table and also retorque the rear suspension. Especially there, the Beta specs are crazy high and I have observed in the past clevis deformation. Another fellow rider, did his linkage without a torque wrench and couldn't arrive at reasonable sag values. 

It turns out that he was ham fisted introducing friction in the system. 

However, It may be that you are not used to 2 strokes type of vibrations..... 

 

PS: if instead of loosening, you remove the bolts, do it as one at a time (after loosening all). Tolerances are really tight, especially on the head stay. All you want to do is to let the engine realign itself and retorque. 

Edited by dirtbird
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6 minutes ago, dirtbird said:

That's not the case. Beta vibrates less than any other 2 stroke 'xcept the counterbalanced ktms (whose exhaust vibrates terribly after some use). 

Do as GP says. Good idea also would be to grease the engine mount bolts. This will minimize crust formation after riding  in wet places. Use the revised torque table and also retorque the rear suspension. Especially there, the Beta specs are crazy high and I have observed in the past clevis deformation. Another fellow rider, did his linkage without a torque wrench and couldn't arrive at reasonable sag values. 

It turns out that he was ham fisted introducing friction in the system. 

However, It may be that you are not used to 2 strokes type of vibrations..... 

 

PS: if instead of loosening, you remove the bolts, do it as one at a time (after loosening all). Tolerances are really tight, especially on the head stay. All you want to do is to let the engine realign itself and retorque. 

What size is the swingarm bolt? It is really tight in there and my impact sockets don't fit. Gonna buy a new socket for that tomorrow.

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when a crank is "balanced" (a relative term with 2 strokes) the vibration feels about the same all thru the RPMs. But in this case he has the least amount of vibration about halfway thru the RPM range which indicates an engineer didn't do his job right at Beta and the counter-balance holes in the crank were made too large. No amount of fiddling with bolts is going to fix it. You have 3 options:

1) sell it

2) learn to live with the vibration

3) balance the crank

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My 2018 RR300 vibrates more than the 2018 Gasser 250 I just sold. Everyone’s different & more sensitive to different input factors.  

Personally, I couldn’t give rats about vibration - I am too busy trying not to fall off once on the pegs that I don’t have any extra brain power to feel anything! 

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13 minutes ago, KatoKonvert said:

My 2018 RR300 vibrates more than the 2018 Gasser 250 I just sold. Everyone’s different & more sensitive to different input factors.  

Personally, I couldn’t give rats about vibration - I am too busy trying not to fall off once on the pegs that I don’t have any extra brain power to feel anything! 

Bigger piston, more circular mass. 

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21 hours ago, Babyarmholdingapple said:

KTM has a counter balanced motor, smooth as a 4t.

 

Love it when some blame boots, 

what flavored Kool Aid are you drinking? 

I dunno. Go ride your bike (on the street) with converse all stars and then go back using same RPMs and speed and course using MX boots. Which one do you feel more vibration from?

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8 minutes ago, shrubitup said:

I dunno. Go ride your bike (on the street) with converse all stars and then go back using same RPMs and speed and course using MX boots. Which one do you feel more vibration from?

Well I have used SG 10 for years and switched to fox and alternate when wet. So the variable is a Beta 300 YZ 250 and the TX 300 and a KTM 350. Beta was the worst and the 350 least.  

Im surprised actually no one told to Op to check all engine mounts.  

To blame boots is just lunacy. 

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1 minute ago, Babyarmholdingapple said:

To blame boots is just lunacy. 

Boots aren't to blame but different ones may transmit it more or less but I agree - tighten down motor and pipe mounts. Mine used to rattle fairly hard in the bars but then I did a head mod, then un mod, then top end and it vibrates less. As I recall, the bolts attaching the head stay to the frame were super tight as was the cylinder to the bottom end. Vibrates less now. Those pipe mounts wear out quickly too so they need replacing.

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