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Primary Drive X-Ring Chain Too Wide? YZ125


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I know for a fact it will not fit.  I bought a used YZ 125 where the previous owner had put one on.  It wore a groove in the cases in one short ride.  

In this thread I wrote about some of the results with different chains and sprockets I have used.  And that OutLaw Racing chain and sprocket set I mentioned has held up very well:

 

Edited by rpt50
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I’ve heard the o rings drag a lot, but x rings are supposed to be a lot better?  I’m building a trail bike with a 12T front and 49 rear (I have a good condition Supersprox that Id like to continue using).   I guess if I were to run PD i’d have to get the non x/o-ring chain? 

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8 hours ago, Rosehill Ryder said:

I've ran the Parts -Unlimited X-Ring with no troubles . O-ring works too . That is an option . Long life chain for us . We have been running them for years !

And this is on the older, steel frame 125s?

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RK 520 GBMXU chain was specifically designed as an Xring chain for MX bikes with limited clearance and has less drag than conventional X or Oring chains and we have had outstandling luck with RK chains here in the shop for 30 years. There are other name brand chains that the magazines talk up that we have seen to be absolute crap. I am not familiar with Primary Drive brand. Is that Rocky Mountains in house brand?

 Thanks-

 Eric

 

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17 hours ago, 2 STROKE YZ DOC said:

They will not work on a 125. Also, it's a lot of drag for the smaller CC, so run non-O/X-ring and be happy.

Once used a stock chain will wear, and then wear the sprockets, and add drag. An O ring will not wear at anywhere near the rate, so the sprockets won't either, and before long it will have less drag than a stock chain. The perfect O ring, designated T ring, is the DID VT2 and the way to go. Essentially the top of the range ERT chain with O rings T rings, and sold as an Enduro chain. One of the strongest chains out there and defo the slimmest and lightest. The CRF models don't have a lot of clearance but no problems with this. Check it comes with a clip link and not a rivet unless that is what you want. Been running this on a 450 for a few years now and no issues and minimal adjusting. http://www.didchain.com/chainSpecs.html

Edited by rainydays
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7 hours ago, Eric@ScottsPerformance said:

RK 520 GBMXU chain was specifically designed as an Xring chain for MX bikes with limited clearance and has less drag than conventional X or Oring chains and we have had outstandling luck with RK chains here in the shop for 30 years. There are other name brand chains that the magazines talk up that we have seen to be absolute crap. I am not familiar with Primary Drive brand. Is that Rocky Mountains in house brand?

 Thanks-

 Eric

 

Yep, I believe so.  I've heard a lot of good things about them, and they're priced very well.  But it looks like I won't be able to run it on my bike without some serious consequences.    Def heard about the RK chain, I'll be checking them out.  Just trying to save money on other parts that I need (and I need a lot lol, rebuilding a 2000 YZ 125).

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6 hours ago, rainydays said:

Once used a stock chain will wear, and then wear the sprockets, and add drag. An O ring will not wear at anywhere near the rate, so the sprockets won't either, and before long it will have less drag than a stock chain. The perfect O ring, designated T ring, is the DID VT2 and the way to go. Essentially the top of the range ERT chain with O rings T rings, and sold as an Enduro chain. One of the strongest chains out there and defo the slimmest and lightest. The CRF models don't have a lot of clearance but no problems with this. Check it comes with a clip link and not a rivet unless that is what you want. Been running this on a 450 for a few years now and no issues and minimal adjusting. http://www.didchain.com/chainSpecs.html

Thanks for the heads up.  Looks like I'll have to start researching specs for chains now too.  Been researching for the last couple of months in my spare time, which isn't much since I'm a full time engineer.  I'll def look into these too.  

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12 hours ago, M3t said:

Thanks for the heads up.  Looks like I'll have to start researching specs for chains now too.  Been researching for the last couple of months in my spare time, which isn't much since I'm a full time engineer.  I'll def look into these too.  

https://dirtbikemagazine.com/did-520-vt2-x-ring-chain-product-review/  The RK sounds like a similar idea and there stuff is usually top notch as well but not seen it and no specs on their site. See if you can find a dry chain lube. Standard lube just turns to grinding paste. I think the US get the Putoline desert lube but I was uable to find the Wurth product I use here on the US site. Bit like the CA brake cleaner which i'm sure has been dumbed down as not up to much. Not sure about other states.

Edited by rainydays
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21 hours ago, M3t said:

I’ve heard the o rings drag a lot, but x rings are supposed to be a lot better?  I’m building a trail bike with a 12T front and 49 rear (I have a good condition Supersprox that Id like to continue using).   I guess if I were to run PD i’d have to get the non x/o-ring chain? 

The 12 counter sprocket will make the chain even closer to the case near the counter shaft seal. if your running the 12 you should use a narrower chain.

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15 minutes ago, rainydays said:

https://dirtbikemagazine.com/did-520-vt2-x-ring-chain-product-review/  The RK sounds like a similar idea and there stuff is usually top notch as well but not seen it and no specs on their site. See if you can find a dry chain lube. Standard lube just turns to grinding paste. I think the US get the Putoline desert lube but I was uable to find the Wurth product I use here on the US site. Bit like the CA brake cleaner which i'm sure has been dumbed down as not up to much. Not sure about other states.

I have yamalube in a can.  It’s not that thick like PJ1 or anything.  Kinda flings but it’s fairly thin and works well.  I’ll consider dry lube though.  Kinda skeptical about those tbh.

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5 minutes ago, GCannon said:

The 12 counter sprocket will make the chain even closer to the case near the counter shaft seal. if your running the 12 you should use a narrower chain.

How so? It’s reducing the diameter.  I don’t see why it should sit any closer to the case.  That would throw off the rear sprocket alignment.  Could you explain? 

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Because the case tapers away from the chain as the the diameter of the sprocket increases. if you reduce the diameter of the counter sprocket then your chain is closer to the seal boss in the case.  meaning your chain is now closer to the case than with the larger diameter sprocket. it has nothing to do with alignment because the sprocket is still in the same position on the shaft.   I think we can agree that the part of case that holds the counter shaft seal is closest to the sprocket (and chain) as the sprocket diameter decreases the chain gets closer to the case.

Note: with a new stiff chain you may not have a clearance problem but remember as the chain wears and loosens up then it flops around more and that is when you need more case clearance.

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we use a 12 counter sprocket on 125's a lot when we ride in the high altitude Forrest.  it makes a 125's the most amazing trail weapon ever!  Second or third gear in tight trails is supper fun.  The 450 guys will never admit it but in those  conditions a 125 is faster and much more fun to ride all day.

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