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Honda Mechanics: 2014 CRF450R Owner with Magura Clutch Install Questions

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Posted (edited)

I just bought a Magura hydraulic clutch for my 2014 CRF450R.  Bought it thinking install would be easy, and I'm not sure that's the case now that I have the product in my hands.  I have searched the forums, YouTube, etc for install help specifically for my model year (2013 and 2014 are same really), and haven't found anything specific for the 2013-2014 model install at all.  Instructions from Magura are TERRIBLE, and are not specific at all to the Honda - generic instructions - so I'm debating if I want to return the product, cuz I don't want trouble or a big install job.  Question: for the 2013-2014 CRF450R install ONLY of a Magura Hymec hydraulic clutch - other model years are different and thus it won't be helpful for other model years - do you have any tips or feedback?  My concerns are below...

1.  The 2014 model has a sleeve behind the clutch actuation arm that the Magura clutch slave cylinder fits into.  Stock, the sleeve holds one end of the cable, with a nut on the other end to keep the cable end tight in the sleeve.  The Magura slave cylinder, however, slides into the mounting sleeve  - but does NOT have a nut: the tension from the clutch actuation arm pulling on the metal Magura slave cyl tip end is apparently supposed to keep the Magura slave cylinder tight in the mounting sleeve.  Q: Will the Magura slave fit in to the mounting sleeve easily, stay tight, and is there any adjustment needed in order to keep the 4-6mm of freeplay that Magura recommends?  How easy is it to get the Magura slave fitted into the sleeve and the metal tip in place?  Is there enough freeplay between slave and tip end to mount in actuating arm AND the holding sleeve, so that the holding sleeve doesn't need to be unbolted?  

2. The stock clutch cable and OEM setup runs out of the mounting sleeve (see pics marked "metal starts", and then runs through a metal sleeve that routes the cable through the engine compartment - keeping the cable away from the hot parts of the engine case, so as not to melt the cable insulation (I believe).  That metal sleeve is about 6-8 inches in length.  The Magura clutch cable, on the other hand, exits the Magura slave cylinder at an angle - yet has no such metal routing.  I don't think the OEM metal routing sleeve will accept the Magura cable either, so a) the OEM metal routing sleeve would have to be removed first before installing the Magura - and then b) you have to hope that the Magura cable can be routed in such a way with zip ties holding the hydraulic line that line will not touch or be close to the hot metal engine casing as you route it through the engine.  Q: how easy was it to get the OEM clutch cable and metal routing sleeve out?  Easy as unscrewing the nut on the other end of the OEM cable, on the other side of the black rubber cable flange in my pics?   

3.  My stock clutch pull isn't bad.  I just like the feel of a hydro clutch.  Any feedback on how much better feeling and easier pull will be with the Magura?  What's your feedback on the difference?  FYI, I'm leaving my clutch plates and springs stock.    

 

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Edited by 33KTM350
Better descriptions of questions, specifics

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I’ve installed 4 or 5 at the shop for customers and never ran into any issues , but I would also say it’s not plug and play. the clutch arm being cable actuated needs that nut to stop cable movement, but it being hydraulic now, a nut is not now needed. In terms of the clutch line, use zip ties. If your radiator hose can handle being right next to the header, the clutch line can too. It’s not exactly a scientific process and unless your competing professionally on this bike, it doesn’t need to be.

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Posted (edited)

Thanks for the reply.  Not competing professionally, but I ride desert and don't want any issues once I'm 50 miles from my truck in the middle of nowhere.   For all who who have installed these specifically on a 2013-2014 CRF450R or can comment with experience:

1. What did you have to do in order to get the metal routing sleeve out, the sleeve my arrows are pointing to in my pics?  How easy does that piece come out?  I'm assuming that when you unscrew the nut on the one end of the holding sleeve, that the metal cable routing sleeve (or whatever you call it) then comes loose and can be pulled out from the other side.  True?

2.  How do you get the Magura slave cylinder into the metal holding sleeve AND get the metal tip into the clutch actuating arm?  Can the metal tip be pulled out a bit - ie. enough freeplay/length - that once the slave is in the holding sleeve, that the metal tip can then also have enough room to be slotted into the actuating arm?  OR - do you need to unbolt the holding sleeve, fit the metal tip in the actuating arm first, then slide the slave into the holding sleeve second, and then finally re-bolt the holding sleeve back into the case and tighten?  (If you look at my pics, you'll see the bolt on the holding sleeve.  It's on the other end of the black rubber flange.)   

3.  Magura says that you have to leave 4-6mm of freeplay once the slave cylinder is installed and the metal tip is in the actuating arm.  Yet I'm not seeing any way to adjust the freeplay once installed: the slave fits into the holding sleeve in a fixed fashion (sleeve is bolted), you mount the tip end into the clutch actuating arm, and then the tension is what it is... correct?  There are no nuts to screw tighter or looser, there were no spacers provided in the box, and there's nothing I can see on the magura slave to make for more/less freeplay once installed.  [When I called Magura and asked about this, they said this is correct - that there's nothing to adjust and thus it is "plug and play," but then reminded me to check and make sure that once installed, there needs to be 4-6mm of freeplay... so... I'm left to wonder what to do if there isn't 4-6mm of freeplay?]

I'm asking all the questions I can here on the forum in order to decide if I want to proceed with the job - or not.  Some of this may seem no big deal, especially to people with advanced mechanical skills, but I'm not that advanced.  On one hand, I should be able to do this job no problem - if there is no problem getting the old clutch cable out and the new Magura slave in.  If, however, the slave requires adjustment, then it's a different level job than I want to take on.   I'm trying not to get into a mess or find myself having to take the bike to the dealer for help.  

 

 

Edited by 33KTM350
Better descriptions of questions, specifics

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I have updated/edited my posts thinking that some Honda mechanics, or very experienced mechanical types, can offer some comments.  (Hope this helps as I wasn't getting the number of replies I was expecting. )

  

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Addressing your second post.

1. The "metal routing sleeve" is simply part of the OEM clutch cable. Disconnect the clutch cable from the lever, undo the nut and there will be plenty of slack to unhook the cable end from the actuator arm.

2. "OR - do you need to unbolt the holding sleeve, first, then slide the slave into the holding sleeve, fit the metal tip in the actuating arm second, and then finally re-bolt the holding sleeve back into the case and tighten?" FIFY. Yes.

3. "I'm left to wonder what to do if there isn't 4-6mm of free play?" Washer(s) between the slave and bracket or between bracket and crankcase.

Route the Magura hose exactly like the OEM cable was. This will be a pia as the slave cylinder is much larger than the cable coming out, but then you can be sure that the hose won't cause any issues with wiring, other hoses or throttle cables. As mentioned earlier, use tie wraps as necessary to keep the hose off the exhaust.

I put one on the '12 Honda in my sig, it was well worth the effort. 

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