Jump to content
filterx

03 E leaking rad fluid from weep hole - must replace parts? - SOLVED

Recommended Posts

I posted about this back in the spring but hasn't big a huge issue but I'm going to fix over the winter and have a Clymer manual,

03 E - Leaking rad fluid from weep hole - What are the must replace parts ?

So far I figure min are numbers 9,3,4,7,14 & (17/18 just cus) + outer right case gasket 11482-29F00.

Clipboard02.thumb.jpg.5f3858b7e5a6f68a4f1c247f2413157d.jpg

Is it worth also replacing both bearings number 5 and anything else?

Am I missing anything?

Thanks!

 

Edited by filterx

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I posted about this back in the spring but hasn't big a huge issue but I'm going to fix over the winter and have a Clymer manual,
03 E - Leaking rad fluid from weep hole - What are the must replace parts ?
So far I figure min are numbers 9,3,4,7,14 & (17/18 just cus) + outer right case gasket 11482-29F00.
Is it worth also replacing both bearings number 5 and anything else?
Am I missing anything?
Thanks!
 

Either try the known fix with the ceramic disc moves sometimes called the “RTV fix “
Oh replace the pump assembly

More times than not people that don’t have the specific drivers needed to install the sales make a mess of it and end up having to replace the entire unit anyway

If you order the pump do it for a 2003 Kawasaki KLX 400 SR same exact part just in a different plastic bag

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 minutes ago, Erik Marquez said:


Either try the known fix with the ceramic disc moves sometimes called the “RTV fix “
Oh replace the pump assembly

More times than not people that don’t have the specific drivers needed to install the sales make a mess of it and end up having to replace the entire unit anyway

If you order the pump do it for a 2003 Kawasaki KLX 400 SR same exact part just in a different plastic bag

Sorry I just edit and added the microfiche.

So you are the main dude in this forum and I'd like to hear your options and money is really not an issue.

Once I have the assembly off the bike I have access to a full shop to do the rebuild and I thought the leak was caused by part 3/4 failing and am assuming you mean the correct driver to install 3 and now that just looked at the manual I think you're right about just replacing part 1 and being done with it :)

I can could order part 1 and I'm assuming you are recommending ordering the same thing for the KLX cus checking OEM 49044-S004 looks like its 90US vs the E one which is like 120US and to confirm the KLX 400 SR one is an EXACT replacement for the 2003 DRZ-400E cus it looks like it?

I'm in Canada and would have to order OEM parts through local shop so thanks in for your help

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, filterx said:

Sorry I just edit and added the microfiche.

So you are the main dude in this forum and I'd like to hear your options and money is really not an issue.

Once I have the assembly off the bike I have access to a full shop to do the rebuild and I thought the leak was caused by part 3/4 failing and am assuming you mean the correct driver to install 3 and now that just looked at the manual I think you're right about just replacing part 1 and being done with it :)

I can could order part 1 and I'm assuming you are recommending ordering the same thing for the KLX cus checking OEM 49044-S004 looks like its 90US vs the E one which is like 120US and to confirm the KLX 400 SR one is an EXACT replacement for the 2003 DRZ-400E cus it looks like it?

I'm in Canada and would have to order OEM parts through local shop so thanks in for your help

Suzuki part 

PUMP ASSY, WATER 

17400-29F00

Should be somewhere around $121 USD price

same exact Suzuki part with a Kawasaki part number label slapped on top of the Suzuki one
PUMP-WATER

49044-S004
Should be somewhere around $94 USD price
 

  • Helpful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, Erik Marquez said:

Suzuki part 

PUMP ASSY, WATER 

17400-29F00

Should be somewhere around $121 USD price

same exact Suzuki part with a Kawasaki part number label slapped on top of the Suzuki one
PUMP-WATER

49044-S004
Should be somewhere around $94 USD price
 

I'm ordering the right side case gasket, clutch cover o-ring and Kawi water pump and thanks very much :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sorry I just edit and added the microfiche.
So you are the main dude in this forum and I'd like to hear your options and money is really not an issue.
Once I have the assembly off the bike I have access to a full shop to do the rebuild and I thought the leak was caused by part 3/4 failing and am assuming you mean the correct driver to install 3 and now that just looked at the manual I think you're right about just replacing part 1 and being done with it
I can could order part 1 and I'm assuming you are recommending ordering the same thing for the KLX cus checking OEM 49044-S004 looks like its 90US vs the E one which is like 120US and to confirm the KLX 400 SR one is an EXACT replacement for the 2003 DRZ-400E cus it looks like it?
I'm in Canada and would have to order OEM parts through local shop so thanks in for your help
Ya Phil, Erik is a great help to alot of guys on this forum.
I haven't had to do my water pump yet, so i can't be of any help, but i have next week off, could you show me some of the cool rides around Squamish ? Maybe next thurs. ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 minutes ago, bucket list said:

Ya Phil, Erik is a great help to alot of guys on this forum.
I haven't had to do my water pump yet, so i can't be of any help, but i have next week off, could you show me some of the cool rides around Squamish ? Maybe next thurs. ?

Ya dude, my insurance is up on the DRZ on the 13th but if you want to ride some off road stuff give me a call Wednesday night and we can see what the weather etc looks like and I have to take time off work but NP. PM me if you don't have my cell #

Edited by filterx

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, filterx said:

I'm ordering the right side case gasket, clutch cover o-ring and Kawi water pump and thanks very much :)

Don’t need to remove clutch cover , and even if you do , o ring is reusable. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, habs said:

Don’t need to remove clutch cover , and even if you do , o ring is reusable. 

Ya I didn't think so BUT for whatever reason my Clymer manual said to and at this point I don't mind spending the $$ on an o-ring and need it and not have it.

Thanks for the input

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/12/2018 at 7:16 PM, filterx said:

Ya I didn't think so BUT for whatever reason my Clymer manual

The right side engine covers... Clutch cover inner, clutch cover outer...the inner cover needs to come off so you can remove the circlip, water pump drive gear and indexing pin..  the manual was referring to removing the inner cover, and that would take a new gasket to reinstall. the outer cover which only gets you access to the clutch assembly itself uses the O ring.

image.png.ae1970021fd654858cd38914f7fc356c.png

Might want to pick up a OEM service manual.., new, used, digital ....

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Drained the oil (it was do for a oil/filter change anyway), drained the rad and yes you do not need to remove the clutch cover outer but IMO you need to remove the rear brake pedal (which needs a lube) so all I can think is that the Clymer Manual (which came with the bike) says to remove the clutch cover outer so you don't have to remove the brake pedal but you do have to remove at least 2 clutch case outer bolts to remove the inner case. Bought the parts from a local shop and should be able to return the o-ring but I've been busy and should have had at removing the case before ordering the parts :)

Took about 20 mins should be a pretty easy reassembly once I get the new water pump, clean off old gasket etc etc etc.

Thanks again for the suggestions and help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


  • Similar Content

    • By Bignerd0100100
      Hey all, 
      I'm looking at buying a 2004 Suzuki DRZ400EK or at least I think it's an EK according to Vin lookup websites, but it does not appear to have a kickstarter. I was told the bike was owned by a motorcycle dealer and that it has a current green sticker, and a California license plate but has not been registered for the streets since 2011. I want this as a dual sport but am not clear if the fact that it already has a plate means I am good to register it or if maybe they took away the ability to register it after it was plated, California loves to do that kind of stuff. Since the bike was owned by a dealer I would think they were up on the latest regulations in California, but who knows. Can anyone add any insight as to what I should look for on the bike itself like the carburetor, model numbers etc? Or do I just try my luck at the DMV?
    • By smokey9lives
      Hi,
      I have a 2003 DRZ (actually a KLX400) and the head tube bearings are shot.  I ordered a new set to install but I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations on other parts I should replace while I have the front disassembled.  I was thinking about new rubber fork protectors, but are there other things that wear out on the DRZ front ends that you can only get to when disassambled?
      I also broke off a replacement key that I got for the steering lock.  I must have been made of cheap pot-metal.  Should I just remove the whole lock mechanism?
      Any tips or tricks for getting the old bearings out and the new ones in would be welcome!
      Thanks!
    • By antonyp
      Hey Guys,
      I recently bought a 2003 DRZ400S and thought it would be a good idea to check the valves clearance etc . I timed the engine on TDC with the magneto mark aligned as per the manual but I find the cam timing slightly odd. The arrows pointing upward are on the 1st and 15th pin as they should but with the magneto timing mark aligned they are not perfectly straight. Same goes for the arrows that should be parallel to the cylinder head casing. Is this normal or should they be absolutely perfect ?
       

×