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WILLY THE WORT

Tubliss removed from BYOB

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19 minutes ago, Older Rider said:

As an 'Older Rider' byob used to appear on party invitations, meaning "Bring your own bottle"

I think it is very progressive of Beta to allow you to spec your own bike, I wish that was available with Husky

You're right, the universal BYOB means 'supply your own suds'. The other BYOB is a program of BetaUSA that gets guys to feel good about spending all that money on a personalized and shiny new dirt bike 😂

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For lube I use a tub of that tyre mounting lube the big tyre shops use. Watered down to spec I use a 40cc syringe to squirt  lube into the tyre through the valve. Bash it about a bit and pump up. Never had a leak. 

Biggest tyre gash i managed to repair in the field used 6 tubless rope thingies to bung it up. Got me the 30km I needed it to with only one top up of air:) 

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12 hours ago, Bermudacat said:

Not a big fan of filling my rims with corrosion causing water and dish soap. The slime method is my choice. 

Clean every thing nice and dirt free ,, I used "Baby Oil" on the tire Bead and used a MC tire Mounting Machine ,, Done in 30 seconds when It was turned, on the Machine !!

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7 hours ago, Older Rider said:

As an 'Older Rider' byob used to appear on party invitations, meaning "Bring your own bottle"

I think it is very progressive of Beta to allow you to spec your own bike, I wish that was available with Husky

I do with my Husky purchases but I also have a great dealer. In a way it was much better then the Beta version. I have all my stock parts, 20% discount on already reduced parts and free labor. While it's a great marketing for Beta the concept has been around for awhile.

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What I find it there are two types of approaches to mounting/sealing aids with advantages and disadvantages.  The sealants, like the Quadboss, will stop minor leaks from bead surface defects.  The disadvantage is they tend to cause the liner to stick to the bead even on bladder deflation and not fall back to the drop center, requiring a lot more care in not grabbing the liner on the first bite with the spoon, more so with the fronts than rears.  I have had them stuck so good the tire would hold air with the bladder completely deflated(on the tire stand).  It also makes more of a mess to clean up and reapply when R&R a new tire.  The silicone grease lets everything slide and the liner releases easily.  It stays on the liner, and protects everything from chaffing and corrosion.  It will not seal a small defect.  I prefer it as I do not use any additional sealant in the tire.  Armor All is OK as well, basically a silicone oil and water emulsion, it mostly dries out. Some fronts however are just stubborn, and its less work to just start with sealant and be done than to do it over for the one in a few small leakers I encounter. 

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5 hours ago, THE KRAN said:

Drop off wheel at tire changer

Come back next day and it's done

I don't think tubliss is harder than any other tire/tube that I don't change....

Now that's funny right there 😂😂😂

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I run Tubliss in the rear, and it seems to be luck of the draw. Slime fixes all leaks, but I do try and use just soapy water from the get-go. 80-90% of the time, the pressure holds rock steady with just the soap and water, but once in a while it'll have a slow leak (1-2 psi for 2-3 days). When that happens I just put 200ml or so through the stem, and it has always cured it so far. I prefer not to use the slime though as dealing with a tire full of slime after taking it off, is a PITA. 

 

6 hours ago, THE KRAN said:

Drop off wheel at tire changer

Come back next day and it's done

I don't think tubliss is harder than any other tire/tube that I don't change....

 

Until the guy changing the tire is tired of being blamed for leaking Tubliss and stops doing Tubliss changes. 

 

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10 hours ago, THE KRAN said:

Drop off wheel at tire changer

Come back next day and it's done

Gotta be very careful with who you trust on install. If they use a motorcycle tire changing machine there can be Issues. Jeff at Nuetech is emphatic that a motorcycle tire changing machine used in most shops should never be used to Tubliss install. 

My buddy with his new X Trainer had his Tubliss installed at the dealership. No problems first handful of rides, then in Moab, front would not hold air, no damage to tire. We carefully attempted to reset and no go. Took it out only to find damage to sheath from initial install. This is normally the big issue and mistake made on install and unless the guys at the shop have lots of successful installs you run a risk. 

Just something to consider. 

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Yeah, detail in wheel prep is key, and when someone is on the clock corners can get cut.  All it takes is one burr on the rim to make a fine cut in the liner as its stretched over.  The same applies to the bead surface of the tires, the mating seal.  Its not for everybody thats for sure.

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51 minutes ago, firffighter said:

Gotta be very careful with who you trust on install. If they use a motorcycle tire changing machine there can be Issues. Jeff at Nuetech is emphatic that a motorcycle tire changing machine used in most shops should never be used to Tubliss install. 

My buddy with his new X Trainer had his Tubliss installed at the dealership. No problems first handful of rides, then in Moab, front would not hold air, no damage to tire. We carefully attempted to reset and no go. Took it out only to find damage to sheath from initial install. This is normally the big issue and mistake made on install and unless the guys at the shop have lots of successful installs you run a risk. 

Just something to consider. 

Tire in the sun for one hour

Plenty of ArmorAll 

Tubliss bead tool

Old-school mechanical tire changing machine (the kind you can stop and hold your position from any point in the installation)

$20 per wheel

$30 per wheel if I don't buy a tire from the guy now and then. Thankfully he stocks GT 216AA 90/100's and Kenda W-2's

My dainty digits are too precious for such Tire-foolery.

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On 10/11/2018 at 4:08 PM, wwguy said:

Have you actually seen corrosion from this? I just spooned my 3rd front tire and 5th or 6th rear tire onto the same Tubliss setup I've been running on my 2016 since the first week I brought it home 2 1/2 years ago.  I squirt that soapy water anywhere and everywhere it'll go... up to the point that it's squirting out of every place it possibly can when I air up the the Tubliss bladder and tire.  The inside of my rims still looks great.  No sign of corrosion anywhere and I've never discovered residual moisture from previous tire changes when installing new ones.  I like the soapy water because it's less messy, less expensive, and more readily available than slime tire sealant.

Don't want the weight of a quart of water either. Have I seen corrosion from the last mount? No. Do I know water and detergent will cause corrosion. Yes.

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Don't want the weight of a quart of water either. Have I seen corrosion from the last mount? No. Do I know water and detergent will cause corrosion. Yes.
A quart of water? Needing to use extremes in a debate, is admitting you have no argument.

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8 hours ago, Goatse said:

A quart of water? Needing to use extremes in a debate, is admitting you have no argument.

You're right, I didn't come here to argue with you. If you feel like arguing, argue with the manufacturer. 5:40

 

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11 hours ago, Bermudacat said:

Don't want the weight of a quart of water either. Have I seen corrosion from the last mount? No. Do I know water and detergent will cause corrosion. Yes.

 

1 hour ago, Bermudacat said:

You're right, I didn't come here to argue with you. If you feel like arguing, argue with the manufacturer. 5:40

You're killing me Smalls. Tubliss would never be successful if they sold a system that left a quart of water sloshing around and resulted in corroded wheels over time.

The video clearly shows a quart-ish size container that's still 2/3 or more full when she's done.  But that's a moot point because the water doesn't stay in the tire anyway. (I usually put twice that much in mine.)  Most of the water is displaced when the tire is bounced around like shown at 6:00 in the video.  More is displaced when the tire and bladder are aired up, and the small remainder trickles out around spokes and valve stems as the bike sits for the next couple of days.

I've had to replace used tires with damaged beads that wouldn't seal with Tubliss after a couple days of watching them slowly lose pressure after installation.  Aside from a damp surfactant film on the inner surfaces of the tire and wheel there's no residual water in the tire.  All tires I've removed from Tubliss after normal tire life (50 to 60 hours for me) have been bone dry inside.  Every. Single. Tire.

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1 hour ago, wwguy said:

 Tubliss after normal tire life (50 to 60 hours for me) have been bone dry inside.  Every. Single. Tire.

Awesome!

Not trying to pass laws banning detergent in dirt bike rims. Just telling folks what I do and why. :D

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Corrosion has a lot to do with the condition of the anodizing on your inner rim. Newer wheels you won't notice but as they age and tools scratch them up, you will see oxidation from soapy water and Slime. Some duct tape adhesive does this too.

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