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Beginner having trouble riding Crf250r in bush

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Hey guys so I’ve been out twice on my 2010 Crf250r on the trails, it’s a fun bike and all and I’m getting used to it but I’m starting to think it was a bad idea as a trail bike. Didn’t realise how motorcross bikes rode. 

 

Im having ALOT of trouble with stalling the bike on tight tracks or even just taking off. The clutch biting point seems to be almost at the end and the throttle is so sensative I end up Reving the shit out of it just to take off and most of the times stall it anyway. Other bikes I’ve ridden you can release the clutch slowly and almost not even need to throttle all that much. 

 

Any tips? Is this just how motorcross bikes are setup? This bike is really all or nothing with the throttle so sensative it’s difficult on the trails most of the time. 

 

Another problem is the gearing but that’s another story.

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Turn up the idle. This should help at least a little with stalling. 

Adjust the clutch so the engagement point is where you want it. And slip that clutch like crazy - you'll pretty much always need to be on the clutch at slower speeds. 

Everything else to make it a better offroad bike is $$: Lower gearing, throttle tamer, flywheel weight, 18" rear wheel, Rekluse clutch, suspension revalve, get a proper enduro bike...  I had a 2010 RMZ250 for a short while. I thought I'd turn it into an offroad bike. It sucked. 

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What a difference one letter can make: CRF250R or CRF250X. The X is very similar to the R but has a wide ratio gearbox (don't have to slip the clutch nearly as much in tight single-track), 18" rear wheel and tire (give more cushion and better traction on the trails), trail-tuned suspension (which is not nearly as harsh as MX suspension) and numerous internal engine changes to make the bike more tractable and flexible in difficult terrain. 

Dirt Bike, in their review of the X said this: "Honda didn’t just stick lights, a starter and a big, fat muffler on the CRF250R to make it into a trail bike. Almost all of the parts were altered in some way or another. The frame was made more compliant, the head, cam and piston were changed and then it was topped with a kickstand, an 18-inch wheel, an odometer and so forth. The X looked like the R but was a very different bike."

I hate to say it, but to make your R into an effective trail bike would be a very costly project, and it's doubtful that it would be as effective as a bike built for the purpose. It would probably be more cost effective to dump the R and look at bikes like the CRF250X, or the Yamaha YZ250FX or YZ250WR, or even one of the 2-stroke enduro bikes like the Yamaha YZ250X, Beta 250RR or the KTM 250XC-W.

Edited by Old Plonker
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I bought an R before I knew what the bike was or where and how I wanted to ride. its only woods/tight technical and struggled with stalling the first few years. A buddy a told me to get a fly wheel weight and  once i got a Stealthy 11oz (can could have gone larger) it was the best $200 I've spent on the bike. Easy to install, I learned to use the clutch, lug it low and slow and my bike she likes to go fast and I love this bike 05 bike I've been riding since 2010 and still my bike for the woods :)

https://www.steahlyoffroad.com/flywheel-weights/honda-flywheels?p=2

Looks like they have a clutch basket ($$$$) or weight for the 2010 so you'll have to do your own research.

the 250R's are not trail/enduro bikes but you can make them into reasonably good fun bikes

Good luck

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I had a '12 and ended up liking it as a woods bike. However, it cost a few bucks to get it there.

The stock leverage ratio for the clutch makes for a hard, but very short pull (engagement). Great for moto, but sucks off road. I installed a Magura hydraulic unit and never looked back. There may be some replacement levers/perches (Moose Easy Pull, et al) that might be a more economical solution. This mod was the best thing I did to that bike.

You will get used to the jerky throttle; it's an EFI thing. There is a thread about an $15 EFI tuner that I have yet to read...

Gearing? I ended up running a two teeth larger rear sprocket.

 

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Motocross 4 strokes are typically challenging to use as a trail bike, especially in the tighter stuff. There are modifications you can do to make things better as others have mentioned here, but it'll always be harder than it can be. My biggest gripe wasn't always just with the ride-ability but also how easy they are to overheat and start once they get hot. The advantage you have with that bike? Once you inevitably switch to a trail focused 2 stroke, it will seem 100x easier to do the same things. I was lucky that I stumbled on a good deal for a 2 stroke or I could've been in the same boat when I first started out. I see the challenges, and feel the challenges first hand when I get into the nasty stuff with a newer rider on a mx 4 stroke and end up having to help them out, then I find myself struggling with their bike nearly as much as they were.

Edited by TheTyLife

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On 10/14/2018 at 10:23 PM, HairyTrails said:

Hey guys so I’ve been out twice on my 2010 Crf250r on the trails, it’s a fun bike and all and I’m getting used to it but I’m starting to think it was a bad idea as a trail bike. Didn’t realise how motorcross bikes rode. 

 

Im having ALOT of trouble with stalling the bike on tight tracks or even just taking off. The clutch biting point seems to be almost at the end and the throttle is so sensative I end up Reving the shit out of it just to take off and most of the times stall it anyway. Other bikes I’ve ridden you can release the clutch slowly and almost not even need to throttle all that much. 

 

Any tips? Is this just how motorcross bikes are setup? This bike is really all or nothing with the throttle so sensative it’s difficult on the trails most of the time. 

 

Another problem is the gearing but that’s another story.

As a guy that has been racing Motocross bikes off road for about 10  years...That bike will teach you how to use a clutch correctly.  That's for sure. 

For stalling...the easiest fix, without learning how to use a clutch...buy a ReKluse clutch.  Core EXP 3.0 would do the trick for you. 

A flywheel weight will also be very helpful, and will make a world of difference for you on the stalling side.

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 As you have surmised it's a poor choice for a trail bike, and as has been said it will be expensive to make it into one. A flywheel weight and lower gearing will give you the most improvement for the lowest cost.

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Even a stock X needs work for tight ST. Mods to my X really improved it for tight ST:
Heaviest Steahly flywheel, transformed the engine.
Trail Tech fan kit, makes sure there are no overheat events.
Extended engine clutch lever for an easy pull clutch because you need to use the clutch when the trail get slow and technical.
EBC carbon pads to reduce brake grab with OEM pads.
JD Jetting
Setting up the FCR carb accelerator pump adjustment, lot of links in the carb forum.
The next two really help on low traction soils:
Disconnect the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), the connector is just inside the right frame spar near the carb, this softens part throttle engine response.
Change out the muffler insert for a ring with q 3/4" ID, and add a down turn tip to reduce noise.

I experimented with R header and a Yosh muffler but went back to stock.

Turning up idles speed does help reduce stalling but so does good clutch use. With the above mods I can use stock idle speed.

Chassis setup for the terrain you ride. 

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