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Helping a friend sort the Fi on his 390s

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Can anyone tell me what the orange object is and what the port marked with the blue arrow does?

TIA!

bETA 4T fi_LI (2).jpg

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The orange part is the TMAP sensor. It reads the manifold intake pressure and the air temperature. The round port goes to the idle air control valve and is how the engine gets air when the throttle plate is closed (idle).

Please help him sort his air filter situation while you are in there!

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3 minutes ago, RMS83843 said:

The orange part is the TMAP sensor. It reads the manifold intake pressure and the air temperature. The round port goes to the idle air control valve and is how the engine gets air when the throttle plate is closed (idle).

Please help him sort his air filter situation while you are in there!

The grime in throttle body was what I was going to comment on, I've been battling that on my 500 rs after every ride. I've used twin air, pro filter, and funnel web, totally soaked the filter  and rung out with filter oil. Made sure its seated correctly with grease on rim, and still it looks like picture after every ride. Had throttle body apart to clean and checked o rings on injector and stepper motor. How many of you look through air boot with butterfly open and see the above?

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5 hours ago, RMS83843 said:

The orange part is the TMAP sensor. It reads the manifold intake pressure and the air temperature. The round port goes to the idle air control valve and is how the engine gets air when the throttle plate is closed (idle).

Please help him sort his air filter situation while you are in there!

Thanks!

I borrowed the picture from another thread.

 

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The problem is the airbox. 

On some bikes, the airbox sealing surface is not flat, it is 'arced' and the filter WILL NOT SEAL on it's own.

Because of this, any filter, and all the grease in the world, will not seal the filter against the box under hard throttle !

You have to add a neoprene gasket, at the very least, at the sealing surface.

ProSeal sells a sheet of gasket.

You can also change to a 'sealing' filter, sold by Moose Racing

You can also modify the cage to be 'less tall' and therefore clamp more before bottoming out on the airbox.

10 RIDES WITH THE SET UP BELOW, AND NO MORE DIRT SUCKING

 

 

Edited by WILLY THE WORT
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1 hour ago, WILLY THE WORT said:

The problem is the airbox. 

On some bikes, the airbox sealing surface is not flat, it is 'arced' and the filter WILL NOT SEAL on it's own.

Because of this, any filter, and all the grease in the world, will not seal the filter against the box under hard throttle !

You have to add a neoprene gasket, at the very least, at the sealing surface.

ProSeal sells a sheet of gasket.

You can also change to a 'sealing' filter, sold by Moose Racing

You can also modify the cage to be 'less tall' and therefore clamp more before bottoming out on the airbox.

10 RIDES WITH THE SET UP BELOW, AND NO MORE DIRT SUCKING

 

Wow - Yours is super lose. Mine has always been damn near impossible to latch.

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One more question.

Someone posted up all the various maps in a thread but I cannot find it. Could someone repost that info here?

Thanks! :cheers:

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On 9/29/2018 at 5:47 PM, singletrackjim said:


350RR-S: For me this bike is for and older rider that still wants to get out there but on something not aggressive. It also flamed out on me 3 times on tight turn situations.
390RR-S: I liked this one way more than the 350RR. You can roll on the throttle and get the front end up. Felt better for engine response.

All of the bikes are very stable in the suspension area.
Again these are just my thoughts. Enjoy.

Interesting. The 350 and the 390 have the same throttle map. Again, my buddies is having flame out issues. I wonder if the 390RE map would fix this or the problem lies elsewhere?

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A couple of questions. 

1) Is your buddy running stock gearing? 15/48 gearing is not suited for any slow technical riding. 

2) How old is the bike? They are prone to stall periodically when new and it goes away once motor is broken in.

3) Has he done the stepper motor reset as outlined in service bulletin? 

-cold start

-no throttle

-10 minute idle until temp reaches 215

-shut off

-no throttle input at anytime during process

Hope this helps

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He' s running the 14 tooth front and he's a fast rider. Flameouts are happening on whoop sections.

Bike has about 20 hours now so it should be nearly broken in and he's following that startup procedure.

Will check the manual for stepper motor reset. :thumbsup:

More info on maps is still welcome!

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The flameouts happenings during whoop sections would indicate something different. 

Has he removed the green cap inside the gas cap? Possibly vapor lock. 

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Mapping info:

Team Boano with the technicians GET has developed a new programmable ECU for Beta RR 4T EFI. The 
development has been designed to optimize and find the best potential of Betamotor 4T engine.
Currently GET units are available for the RR 350/390/430. GET Athena units for Beta are an exclusive 
BOANO RACE PARTS.
For each bike mappings have been developed for use with the standard exhaust or with a Racing Exhaust. 
Each unit has dual mapping: one map called "Power", were we have tried to get the maximum 
performance on the engine and the exhaust adopted, and a map with TRACTION CONTROL in position 5 of 
the 10 available. (The others are selectable purchasing the GPA Switch).
We have therefore have the following configurations:
- RR350 with STD Exhaust
- RR350 with Racing Exhaust (best development with Boano 4T Power)
- RR390 with STD Exhaust
- RR390 with Racing Exhaust (best development with Boano 4T Power)
- RR430 with STD Exhaust
- RR430 with Racing Exhaust (best development with Boano 4T Power)
In case you decide to buy an ECU with map for serial exhaust and then switch to a racing muffler, the same 
can be reprogrammed. All ECUs can be reprogrammed in case of change of capacity or different exhaust. 
All units have been developed to find the best performance of the series engine.
Main points of development for each unit:
RR350 STD exhaust with Power map:
- More linearity to the gas opening
- More power at half throttle for a better gear change
- More linearity over the entire power curve
- Same engine speed because it is already very high standard
- Less engine braking
RR350 with Racing exhaust: (here with Boano 4T Power)
- More linearity and power to the gas opening
- More power on the entire curve
- More top power
- Less engine braking

 

RR390 with STD exhaust Power map:
- More strong to the gas opening
- More power at mid-gas
- More top power with 200rpm more
- Less engine braking
RR390 with Racing Exhaust Power map (here with Boano 4T Power)
- More strong power at the gas opening
- More power on the entire curve
- Top power with 200rpm more
- Less engine braking

 

The ECU kit include:
- CDI with support
- Double map switch
- Assembly instruction

Edited by firffighter
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On 10/19/2018 at 9:18 AM, firffighter said:

Has he removed the green cap inside the gas cap? Possibly vapor lock. 

I'll let him know, thanks!

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That green cap had fallen off and into my fuel tank from like the first week of ownership.  The thing had been lodged down under one of the fuel gizmo's until a few months ago when I had gone in to check my fuel filter(it was pretty clean) and I had finally gotten it out.  

It is sitting in the crate with all the other Beta-stuff.  

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Ok,

The bike now has the 2017 RE map, which is for a single injector.

Sounds MUCH better, and when you chop the throttle, there seems to be a slight delay on the return to idle, which we see as a positive thing. Prior, when you chopped the throttle the idle dropped all the way to not running.

Will update if the flameouts return.

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