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Boiled after idling for a bit...possible damage or me being paranoid?

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Well with my 650R being my first water cooled bike, I stupidly let her idle for 5 or 6 mins after riding a bit to BS with my neighbor when the bike's idle suddenly spiked up high and I immediately ran over to shut her down. Heard the coolant bubbling and the overflow tank was almost filled. Let it cool off before firing it back up and it seemed fine. Did I do anything bad to my new baby? Possible damage? I have a fresh mixture of 50/50 with distilled water and a fresh oil change too. I'm used to my trusty air cooled XR400 idling forever and not even flinching lol. Please set my mind at ease . I've only had her for 2 weeks so I'm learning the modern motorcycle engine ways!

 

 

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there is no fan on these bikes.........so if you plan on impressing your friends with it idling there without air moving over the rads...

you better install a SPAL fan and coolant switch soon..

 

B

Edited by brianhare
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there is no fan on these bikes.........so if you plan on impressing your friends with it idling there without air moving over the rads...
you better install a SPAL fan and coolant switch soon..
 
B


Not tryin to impress, just carelessly forgot I wasn't on an air cooled bike. No need to install a fan cause this isn't what I plan on doing (idling the bike to impress others)...just asking if I coulda jacked anything up.

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Unless you cooked the oil (like over 240 for Dino or 300 for full syn) and/or ran out of oil, I doubt you did any damage. Watch for new oil leaks, and if you sense a drop in power, do a leak-down test.

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Unless you cooked the oil (like over 240 for Dino or 300 for full syn) and/or ran out of oil, I doubt you did any damage. Watch for new oil leaks, and if you sense a drop in power, do a leak-down test.


Thanks for the input! I tend to over react. I'm running Hondas GN4 and it was only idling for 5 mins or so. Still got plenty of oil. :)

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Has nothing to do with oil. Hot water expands. No air to cool it. The cap is designed to lift at X degrees(pressure) to get rid of some liquid cause now that it's expanded, there's not enough room for it. Like pouring a beer too fast. The tank should be designed to put that fluid back once it cools and pressure sucks it back in.
Get a reg/rec and put a 4" fan on a switch behind a radiator.

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Has nothing to do with oil. Hot water expands. No air to cool it. The cap is designed to lift at X degrees(pressure) to get rid of some liquid cause now that it's expanded, there's not enough room for it. Like pouring a beer too fast. The tank should be designed to put that fluid back once it cools and pressure sucks it back in.
Get a reg/rec and put a 4" fan on a switch behind a radiator.

Must disagree. Engine failure from overheating happens when whatever cooling (oil or water or both depending on the engine) goes away, oil cooks and fails to lubricate any longer. Then you end up with metal on metal, galling, seizing, etc. If the water cooling was not absent long enough to cook the oil, chances are there is no permanent damage.

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I do not think 250 degrees is going to damage GN4 Honda oil.

I get to 250 all the time with no issues..........................on a air cooled engine at that.

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My L reaches 250 all the time, I have read everywhere that it is common to reach those numbers (specially in the tropics, where I am), I don't think it is hurt.

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GN4 works best between 200 and 260 if you get up to 300 often then you need synthetic blend.

I get to 300 for a short time in rough slow conditions but only for a short period and never had a problem.

I like to change mine every 750-1000 miles even though 2000 is fine really (for casual riding)

 

Edited by EarthCruzn
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Must disagree. Engine failure from overheating happens when whatever cooling (oil or water or both depending on the engine) goes away, oil cooks and fails to lubricate any longer. Then you end up with metal on metal, galling, seizing, etc. If the water cooling was not absent long enough to cook the oil, chances are there is no permanent damage.

Ok. Not that you're not right. But you're talking about a result. I'm talking about cause. You're talking about effect.

This us why coolant dripped; cause.

It doesn't sound like he ran it long enough with lesser coolant. I doubt he ran with little to no coolant even though he had a drip.

This is a positive about a higher pressure cap, by the way...it buys you time.

His bikes fine. The temp it drips at is 216f, roughly, with your average 1.1 cap.

He had plenty of time before anything like you're talking about.

 

 

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Still saying the first mod i`d do to this bike is install a SPAL fan....then it doesn`t matter if you crawl in the woods,get stuck and have to spend time working it out of the woods,,,it won`t overheat....

i was just poking at you about idling and impressing your friends,,lol

 

B

 

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yep. a res tank and a fan are just two great mods for any water cooled machine....

my 250x's "Honda Service" manual actually has in Chapter 1-33 "Optional Parts"

Listed are 5 items:.....

Bike stand, Spanner Wrench, Sprockets (52T-54T), Lower Handle Bar Holder and a................ "optional cooling fan"

450XCoolingFan2.jpg

Love it!

Edited by EarthCruzn
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On 10/16/2018 at 8:14 PM, brianhare said:

Still saying the first mod i`d do to this bike is install a SPAL fan....then it doesn`t matter if you crawl in the woods,get stuck and have to spend time working it out of the woods,,,it won`t overheat....

i was just poking at you about idling and impressing your friends,,lol

 

B

 

haha i gotcha...thanks man :)

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18 hours ago, JoeRC51 said:

Does that tiny little fan actually move enough air ?

it helps...about a 25% gain when NOT moving......

you do not want the fan TOO big it will then actually slow the air flow function of the stock design

a it is free flow and not forced .........

the res tank on my X actually works well and have never overheated

but I don't stop long either.....

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No fan needed, just dont let it sit and idle. The only time my bike ever overheated was when I had to much coolant in it because I checked it in the dark and let it idle for 10 min and I have fludyine radiators. Just because it's a 4 stroke doesnt mean it can sit and idle. 1-2 min warm up and take off, shut it down when your going to stop for more then 2-3 min. People dont remember that it's a 650 R not an L. It's a race bike, need to keep the air moving through the radiators or shut it down. Even if I had 2 fans on my bike I wouldn't let it sit and idle for more then a stoplight. Even in traffic in the summer my oil temp hasn't gone over 210. Might want to check your oil level and also your thermostat, stock ones have been know to go bad and stick shut.

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