Jump to content

2016 Honda CRF250X stock jetting

Recommended Posts

I have a 16.
Yes it runs lean stock, I dropped the JD jet kit in mine.

There's a few smog removal kits out there, I personally used the Tokyomod one, very easy to install and it did the job.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, Steph7 said:

I have a 16.
Yes it runs lean stock, I dropped the JD jet kit in mine.

There's a few smog removal kits out there, I personally used the Tokyomod one, very easy to install and it did the job.

Do you like the bike overall was comparing to a WR250F Yamaha (do you got links to the JD Jet kit and Tokyomod) is it on Rockymountain by chance?

Can you give me a rough overview of how it handles like the way it turns (like is it nimble feeling)?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those block off kits are expensive for what they are, you can block off everything yourself

by having the exhaust connector pipe cut off and welded shut (I've seen them blocked off with JB Weld)

 

The air intake's tube nipple is threaded, the proper sized / length screw with Loctite takes care of that.

and to finish, a tight fitting bolt RTV'd in the air inlet boot's nipple. 

Not as flashy as anodized parts but just as effective.

 

Pilot jet rarely requires up sizing, but an aftermarket fuel screw is a big plus for ease of adjustment

 

The needle on late model bikes only have one clip position, there are many OEM / Keihin needles available with 7 clip position.

You can cross reference Yamaha needles as well, myself run an NCVS.


With minimal air box un-corking, a #145 main jet is a good starting point (a #130 is stock)

Edited by mlatour

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

JD is on rocky, tokyomod kit I got from their website directly, I think crfsonly also carries it

 

260 hours on the bike so far and loving it - it does everything I need and then some.

Tight gnarly technical stuff is what I mostly ride (70%), atv tracks (20%), fire / lumber road to chain trails (10%)

The bike is a tank and a nice jack of all trades master of none trail bike

Mods: JD kit, open airbox, oversized tank, fmf header, fmf pipe, skidplate, busters, rad guards, rear disc fin, removed the smog stuff, tubliss front and back, sprung for my weight

Do your research, plenty of 2004 to 2017 reviews, its pretty much the same bike for 13 years

 

What I hate about the bike:

Cable clutch instead of hydraulic, been debating making the conversion

Front / top heavy bike

I'd love a wide ratio transmission

 

Lastly, something I didn't really realize until I started braking stuff on the bike from dropping it on rocks was the used parts market is amazing. Since the X and the R have very similar parts from 2004 to 2016, makes for replacing broken stuff really cheap, a huge + in my book. I have a 2007 right radiator from a 250R that I got used for 20$ as an example, you can't beat that.

Edited by Steph7
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, Steph7 said:

JD is on rocky, tokyomod kit I got from their website directly, I think crfsonly also carries it

 

260 hours on the bike so far and loving it - it does everything I need and then some.

Tight gnarly technical stuff is what I mostly ride (70%), atv tracks (20%), fire / lumber road to chain trails (10%)

The bike is a tank and a nice jack of all trades master of none trail bike

Mods: JD kit, open airbox, oversized tank, fmf header, fmf pipe, skidplate, busters, rad guards, rear disc fin, removed the smog stuff, tubliss front and back, sprung for my weight

Do your research, plenty of 2004 to 2017 reviews, its pretty much the same bike for 13 years

 

What I hate about the bike:

Cable clutch instead of hydraulic, been debating making the conversion

Front / top heavy bike

I'd love a wide ratio transmission

 

Lastly, something I didn't really realize until I started braking stuff on the bike from dropping it on rocks was the used parts market is amazing. Since the X and the R have very similar parts from 2004 to 2016, makes for replacing broken stuff really cheap, a huge + in my book. I have a 2007 right radiator from a 250R that I got used for 20$ as an example, you can't beat that.

Front / top heavy bike (how does it turn like a typical CR 2 stroke bike or is it more middle of the road) if that makes sense?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A CRF250X certainly won't corner like a lighter motocross race bike (even a 4-stroke 250F motocross doesn't feel anything like a light 125)

it's not even comparable to my YZ125 which isn't known to be a great corner carving bike 

 

The CRF250X is designed as an off-road race bike, it's geometry favoring high speed stability rather good cornering in tight technical terrain.

It has a wide turning radius and even at relatively low speed the front tends to push when cornering.

In spirited riding, I find it is best steered with the rear end / sliding which unfortunately isn't my preferred style of riding.

 

Top heavy also means that when you begin to loose balance, you have to work much harder to prevent it from falling over.

(and also work harder to pick it up off the ground)

 

My guess is that most comparable 4-stroke enduro bikes all feel about the same

with perhaps the exception of late model WR's with their lower positioned fuel tank.

A 255lbs+ bike is still 255lbs. no matter the brand.

Edited by mlatour

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
A CRF250X certainly won't corner like a motocross race bike (even a 4-stroke 250F motocross doesn't feel anything like a light 125)
it's not even comparable to my YZ125 which isn't known to be a great corner carving bike 
 
The CRF250X is designed as an off-road race bike, it's geometry favoring high speed stability rather good cornering in tight technical terrain.
It has a wide turning radius and even at relatively low speed the front tends to push when cornering.
In spirited riding, I find it is best steered with the rear end / sliding which unfortunately isn't my preferred style of riding.
 
Top heavy also means when you begin to loose balance, you have to work much harder to prevent it from falling over.
(and also to pick it up off the ground)
 
My guess that most comparable 4-stroke enduro bikes all feel about the same
with the exception of late model WR's with their lower positioned fuel tank.
A 255lbs+ bike is still 255lbs. no matter the brand.
Couldn't of said it better myself.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, mlatour said:

A CRF250X certainly won't corner like a lighter motocross race bike (even a 4-stroke 250F motocross doesn't feel anything like a light 125)

it's not even comparable to my YZ125 which isn't known to be a great corner carving bike 

 

The CRF250X is designed as an off-road race bike, it's geometry favoring high speed stability rather good cornering in tight technical terrain.

It has a wide turning radius and even at relatively low speed the front tends to push when cornering.

In spirited riding, I find it is best steered with the rear end / sliding which unfortunately isn't my preferred style of riding.

 

Top heavy also means that when you begin to loose balance, you have to work much harder to prevent it from falling over.

(and also work harder to pick it up off the ground)

 

My guess is that most comparable 4-stroke enduro bikes all feel about the same

with perhaps the exception of late model WR's with their lower positioned fuel tank.

A 255lbs+ bike is still 255lbs. no matter the brand.

I have ridden 2 stroke race bikes for years and used them for trail riding (once setup) lower gearing ect... Owned some XR200R's in the past (like mid 80's ones). 

Still trying to sort out if making the leap over to a CRF250X or WR250F is the right move, I found a NICE 2016 one and it is really chewing on me. Still in the mode of (trying to get all of the thoughts of guys who owned them) so I can visualize what is best.

thanks a million for the write up 

👍

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/16/2018 at 12:11 PM, mlatour said:

It has a wide turning radius and even at relatively low speed the front tends to push when cornering.

In spirited riding, I find it is best steered with the rear end / sliding which unfortunately isn't my preferred style of riding.

Was out riding my 250X today and thinking about this post,

perhaps I can re-phrase by saying, it "corners better when on the gas"

 

Not necessarily meaning to let the rear end hang out sideways but IMO it likes to be leaned and,

to power thru corners rather than simply coast, keeping weight off the front tire and suspension.

 

I've often run reduced sag numbers in the hopes of getting sharper steering but today I experimented with more sag.

The steering response wasn't affected negatively and if anything it let the forks work better with the rear now sitting lower.

Edited by mlatour
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/17/2018 at 6:30 PM, mlatour said:

Was out riding my 250X today and thinking about this post,

perhaps I can re-phrase by saying, it "corners better when on the gas"

 

Not necessarily meaning to let the rear end hang out sideways but IMO it likes to be leaned and,

to power thru corners rather than simply coast, keeping weight off the front tire and suspension.

 

I've often run reduced sag numbers in the hopes of getting sharper steering but today I experimented with more sag.

The steering response wasn't affected negatively and if anything it let the forks work better with the rear now sitting lower.

Thank you ! 😉

Good info - excellent, still tossing it up in the air (trying to sort out which machine to get).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Isn't the WR FI and el start? A little more modern bike and still in production. .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Early WR250F were kickstart only (2001-2002), they got e-start from 2003-on.

Fuel injection came in 2014 with the new YZ250F engine design (rear slanted cylinder)

 

A few old reviews suggest in stock form the CRF250X was preferable to early WR's but since the switch

to FI and 'SSS' type suspension (WR pretty much built using a YZ250F platform)

since 2014 the WR has surpassed the X in both power, suspension.  

(the Honda's lack of any real updates since it's introduction in 2004 doesn't help it)

 

I imagine they haven't sold many new CRF250X in the last few years when it's suggested MSRP is so close to that of a new WR.

With only a few hundred dollars difference for 10 years newer design and technology it's a no brainer to pick the Yamaha instead.

Edited by mlatour

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Quote

With only a few hundred dollars difference for 10 years newer design and technology it's a no brainer to pick the Yamaha instead.

 Well that's both a curse and a blessing; the CRFx's have a rich 3rd party product and parts market as a result.   A lot of things are span many model years and can be swapped with the R's.

  I don't know enough about Yamaha models to know if the same applies, but many see that as a significant plus, along with the fact that you can work on just about everything with normal tools.

Jim.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/15/2018 at 9:23 PM, Steph7 said:

JD is on rocky, tokyomod kit I got from their website directly, I think crfsonly also carries it

 

260 hours on the bike so far and loving it - it does everything I need and then some.

Tight gnarly technical stuff is what I mostly ride (70%), atv tracks (20%), fire / lumber road to chain trails (10%)

The bike is a tank and a nice jack of all trades master of none trail bike

Mods: JD kit, open airbox, oversized tank, fmf header, fmf pipe, skidplate, busters, rad guards, rear disc fin, removed the smog stuff, tubliss front and back, sprung for my weight

Do your research, plenty of 2004 to 2017 reviews, its pretty much the same bike for 13 years

 

What I hate about the bike:

Since the X and the R have very similar parts from 2004 to 2016, makes for replacing broken stuff really cheap, a huge + in my book. I have a 2007 right radiator from a 250R that I got used for 20$ as an example, you can't beat that.

true dat,  my rear brake master cyl was roasted and I bought a new china clone for $13, bolted right on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


×