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XCZ 11xxxAB

Questions and a Hand IV

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Sir's,  You may recall my other Post's and Threads "Questions and a Hand" I've was working with a 1986 Honda CR250R, which required a tear down too the Crank (Separating of the Case's). In which I found problem, after Problem, after Problem.

    Now I'm assembling the CR250R from the Case's up, Starting with Sweating the Main and Transmission Bearing's. I've had my Crankshaft rebuilt by KOR and I've just received my CR's Cylinder from a Bore and Hone from KOR. I have checked all the Gear's, Washers, Thrust Washer's and Circlips of the Transmission and there all in order. I have all the OEM Assembly devices too rebuild the Bottom and Top end.

    But, there are still Questions which remain, Such as : How to Paint Crankcases and a Cylinder in 68* Degree weather without running in too problems.. And the list now begins upon assembly.

    Sir's Thank you for listening to these troubles, they may seem elementary but in fact there hard, Anyway I'd like to be back with positive results (and Photos). Thank you Sir's....

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Sir's A quick but complicated tool question : I'm looking for a way too Chase (with a Tap or Die) a Bolt in tight quarters. Possibly a Pipe Threaded. See the HPP Bolt Below.. Any input will great, thank you.....  

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18 minutes ago, XCZ 11xxxAB said:

Sir's A quick but complicated tool question : I'm looking for a way too Chase (with a Tap or Die) a Bolt in tight quarters. Possibly a Pipe Threaded. See the HPP Bolt Below.. Any input will great, thank you.....  

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Are you referring to the 6MM bottom HPP hole below the opening?

it is 6MM x 1.00 thread pitch

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Sir, Thank you for the Notation, what I'm looking for is a Tool (like a Tap or Die) too Chase (Clean) the Threads, normal Taps and Dies will not fit into tight quarters, I know it's a Stud but I really don't want too remove it, make matters worse than they already are. I just want to Clean (Chase) the Threads.  I basically need a Specialty type Tool ? Something like a Ratcheting Die. Thank you for the Info.... 

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If you place two internal cuts inside a standard nut with a hacksaw blade, on a diagonal, then use copious amounts of cutting oil (kerosene or light oil), and then run this nut up and down this stud thread...it should clean up pretty well. If you are that worried about it, just replace it for the $1.50 it's worth. 

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Sir's, There got too be another way, Possibly just run a Nut over it a few times will be good enough, Copious it would seize to exists. Or light on Fire. Sorry but thanks anyway.

 Sir's :  And there is from another perspective From the Top. Looking Down on the Stud.

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Edited by XCZ 11xxxAB

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Use a thread restorer. They look like a die except they are an external hex so you can turn it with a socket or wrench.

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Sir, Thank you for the reply, I found what I was looking for, it's costly, I might be able to get my Hand's on one, Metric even.. Now to resolve my HPP Power Valve Chamfering Problems. Grinding Hardened Steel Exhaust Valve, and the Guide.

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Sir's, Question I need to Grind (Chamfer) my Power Valves, My question is How ? Should I just use a Half Round File and hold the work in a Vice. Or is there a simpler way.. Also How to measure the .015" Clearance between the Piston and Valves. Another Problem: Piston Lubrication Holes Drill and countersink 2 Holes in the Piston, How too. Possibly a feed too a Video or a site showing how these modifications are done...

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EXHAUST BRIDGE.JPG

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1 hour ago, XCZ 11xxxAB said:

Sir's, Question I need to Grind (Chamfer) my Power Valves, My question is How ? Should I just use a Half Round File and hold the work in a Vice. Or is there a simpler way.. Also How to measure the .015" Clearance between the Piston and Valves. Another Problem: Piston Lubrication Holes Drill and countersink 2 Holes in the Piston, How too. Possibly a feed too a Video or a site showing how these modifications are done...

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I would think it should be in the clear once you hook up the linkage. Question tho - does this got a Cast Iron sleeve in the cylinder?

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Sir, I'll send a Photo of the Cylinder it has two Sleeves one Steel (Magnetic) the other Aluminum (I think). I did write KOR and he said it needs the Lubrication Holes. I still need to read the Piston Pamphlet better. And understand my Cylinder Better. The Chamfering of the Exhaust Valves is what really has me, How too..... Thank you for the reply it means a Lot too me.

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AFTER BORE & HONE.JPG

Piston to Valve Clearence.JPG

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9 hours ago, XCZ 11xxxAB said:

Sir, I'll send a Photo of the Cylinder it has two Sleeves one Steel (Magnetic) the other Aluminum (I think). I did write KOR and he said it needs the Lubrication Holes. I still need to read the Piston Pamphlet better. And understand my Cylinder Better. The Chamfering of the Exhaust Valves is what really has me, How too..... Thank you for the reply it means a Lot too me.

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Take them out and grind them with grinder, put them in run piston threw with no rings for test make sure not going to hit grind until you have enough clearance.  Id just use a nut to chase those threads. Far as lube holes KOR relieved the bridge as can see in pic so holes not necessary.  Nut can explain how to if you still want to do it 

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Sir's, Haven't got a Grinder, or Dremel, But I do have a Air Die Grinder and a Half Round File. Will any of these two work. How too Fit it in a Vice without Chewing it up. I think if KOR Say's do the Lubrication Holes than I should  do them. Thank you Sirs, Got a lot of reading ahead of me.....

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4 minutes ago, XCZ 11xxxAB said:

Sir's, Haven't got a Grinder, or Dremel, But I do have a Air Die Grinder and a Half Round File. Will any of these two work. How too Fit it in a Vice without Chewing it up. I think if KOR Say's do the Lubrication Holes than I should  do them. Thank you Sirs, Got a lot of reading ahead of me.....

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Long as they dont hit when put in doesn't matter how you do it. Yes i always recommend drilling hole also but he relieved bridge and its 250 so unless your b class mx racer it be ok . But here's few pics i took while doing holes. Also instructions from weisco. Use 1/16" drill bit . First hole 3/8" below bottom ring and another 3/8" below that one. I just converted to " Easier to most  

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Sir, Perfection, except one thing they need to be Countersunk. I saw this in a Video. Thank you for the SAE measures and the Pencil stencils. It make's me sure of what I'm doing. I have thoroughly read the Wisco Pamphlet, I gather I have a Cast Iron Cylinder (inner Sleeve is Magnetic). It's been Bored and Honed too fit a oversized Piston (68.00mm) over the Stock (66.4mm). I don't know the spec's on the Power Valves (HPP). But they need Grinding (Chamfering) too make proper Piston to Valve Clearance. Questioning still How is this Done. Do I clamp them Down in a Vice and File them with a Half Round File or can I use a Air Die-Grinder. Wiseco Pamphlet say's leave at least .015" Clearance. I hope I have this Straight because I'm going down into my Basement too Grind the HPP Valve's Now. I'll show photos after I finish...   

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Hello Again Sir's, A few shot's of the work I did on Chamfering my CR250R's Power Valve. In now has a .015" clearance between the Piston and Power Valve Possibly take off More go too .020", Next I'll Drill and Countersink Holes for Lubrication in my Piston and Cylinder Bridge. Thank you for letting Post on the TT Forum... 

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Hello Sir's, It's been a while since I posted every things going fairly smooth, I finished Chamfering the HPP Valve, Still working on Ring End Gap calculations. But I put the Top end aside to work on the Bottom End. I finally got the Main and  Transmission Bearings Installed, with help from KOR (Ken O'Conner Racing) They did marvelous work installing them at a reasonable price, I installed the Retainers, Seals and Crankshaft only to have trouble with installing the Transmission. Which is why I'm here now. Lost I do not know what too do, I tried putting the Trans back together the way that I took it out, I've inspected it numerous times, I haven't removed the Circlips (from the Factory positions) so everything there is the way it's was Stock. The problem is it "Binds" meaning it Jams on rotation, will not spin properly. I do not know what too tell you, maybe I should keep trying Do a total rebuild take the Circlips out and Rebuild the whole Transmission. Any advice would be great about Transmissions. Thank you Sirs....    

L. Bearings, Retainers INSTALLED.JPG

R. Crankshaft INSTALLED.JPG

SEEMS WRONG..JPG

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10 hours ago, XCZ 11xxxAB said:

Hello Sir's, It's been a while since I posted every things going fairly smooth, I finished Chamfering the HPP Valve, Still working on Ring End Gap calculations. But I put the Top end aside to work on the Bottom End. I finally got the Main and  Transmission Bearings Installed, with help from KOR (Ken O'Conner Racing) They did marvelous work installing them at a reasonable price, I installed the Retainers, Seals and Crankshaft only to have trouble with installing the Transmission. Which is why I'm here now. Lost I do not know what too do, I tried putting the Trans back together the way that I took it out, I've inspected it numerous times, I haven't removed the Circlips (from the Factory positions) so everything there is the way it's was Stock. The problem is it "Binds" meaning it Jams on rotation, will not spin properly. I do not know what too tell you, maybe I should keep trying Do a total rebuild take the Circlips out and Rebuild the whole Transmission. Any advice would be great about Transmissions. Thank you Sirs....    

L. Bearings, Retainers INSTALLED.JPG

R. Crankshaft INSTALLED.JPG

SEEMS WRONG..JPG

It wont spin until you put drum and forks in also 🙂

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