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DR350SE transplant questions

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Hello,

          I'm new here and have been searching google images for good info for my DR350SE transplant project. I understand that its not a true DR however I have had a DR650 for some time and the DR platform just cant be beat for the type of environment Im currently in.

The area I'm deployed to doesnt really cater to bigger motorcycles. In fact the largest cc for sale here is a 150cc.

I have a Chinese knock off of a Ninja 300 that I bought new. The little 150cc motor just didn't have the kick I needed so I went to my old favorite motor the Suzuki DR. My first choice was the 650 however I dont thing the frame will hold up to that kind of power so I found a 1996 DR350SE. I rebuilt the entire motor/ transmission with new bearings and seals. Did all my powder coating and reassembled. Now that the motor is complete and custom motor mounts are built I need a little help with oil line routing. The obvious issue is that I dont have a DR350 frame with in frame oil tank. So this led me to start to build a under seat oil tank. As far as I can see there is a supply that is at the oil pump at the bottom of the block and a return then the vent. All my lines will be custom made using -8, -6 and -4AN fittings the oil tank will have a vent that uses a catch can because the vent wont be as high as the DR frame tank. Does anyone have any drawings of the oil lines and offer any advice as to what I may be missing as far as oil goes. I also have a larger oil cooler than stock to help shed some extra heat. 

Once I finish the oil I will be onto the CDI. I bought a 1994-1999 CDI unit that is digital and a kickstand safety switch to adapt to my bike. I have a larger voltage regulator that can be mated in to ensure I have plenty of usable power to run all the lights and such. 

The exhaust is still being worked out. I'd like to run the stock pipe but I picked up an older supertrapp that might get put on just so I can tune it for the type of driving I'll be doing which is short to medium roads that are not in the best condition which is why I went with the continental trail attack tires.

 

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Wow this looks amazing.  Great work so far! 

Does the powder coating affect the cooling of the air cooled top end?  I'd be worried the powder coating would act as a thermal insulator.  The frame acts as an oil reservoir and also as an oil cooler.  With the tank out of the air flow coupled with the painted cooling fins I'd be concerned about oil temps getting high, especially if you are in a warmer environment.  I know there are third party oil temp gauges available and it might be a good idea  to consider one.  

I know Greg Bender's site thisoldtractor.com has the shop manual for the DR350 posted. It might has the oil routing diagrams you are looking for. Here is a link:

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/dr350_workshop_manuals___shop_manuals___service_manuals.html

Good luck with the project!

 

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My harleys use the same type powdercoat. It's a 50/50 debate on it. I like it and have pwdercoated a few back in the early 2000s. The oil cooler I have is a 10 pass type which is a lot bigger than than the stock dr350 or even the dr650. Fingers crossed on it being here as the heat does get 120s here.

This motor wont be pushed as hard as it would in the dirtbike as it's all flat land type roads. I'll be sure to get a oil temp gauge for my tank and route it up to the controls to keep an eye on it. 

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Awesome project, wow! That motor looks so good.

I would definitely watch temp, and maybe oil pressure as well. If you're doing an external oil cooler, it might be easy to wire up a fan for some extra cooling. Download the service manual and look at section 4-7 in particular for oil pressure/flow diagram.

Here's a flow cutaway I extracted from page 86 of my 1990 dirt-model service manual. Flow in/out of the case is fairly straightforward - you have two main lines, plus a hard line pushing oil on top of the gears.

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Thank you for the diag. I think I have a rough draft completed for the oil tank. It will be slightly higher than the head of the motor. I have 2 -8AN lines from either side of the tank combining to a single -8AN fitting going to the oil pump. This way no matter the motorcycle position it wont lack oil. 

I havn't planned on it but I'm kinda liking the idea of a fan on a thermo switch. I just don't know how much my battery/ DR stator can push on a short ride. I can go almost across the entire country in a few hours at 80mph. Lol

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Well I know some guys run heated gear just fine - but a rad fan has a lot of pull. Your main load now would be coming from the headlight, depending on how much draw there I would think a suitable fan pulling 50-70W max would be just manageable unless you're spending a lot of time idling. Easy enough to test once she's running get your battery charged, wire in a fan and watch voltage drop at full draw. If you've still got close to 13V under power you should still be charging. A good battery and maybe LED lights might help ease things up?

The 1990 S model I'm working on now can barely keep the headlight steady at idle without the battery, so yeah, they aren't pushing a ton of power but the battery helps a lot.

It would be extra cool if you added a kickstarter lol ;)

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That's what I'm thinking. There is not a lot of sitting still so air would be rushing. With a thermo switch I can make it automatic and would only come in when things really get hot. It's still in the build phase so it might or might not happen. I'm running a decent gel cell battery and all lights are LED for the lowest power draw. I'm modifying the neutral switch to display all 6 gears. The stock donor bike had this capability. Today I'll break out the plasma cutter and cut up my oil tank parts and the sheet metal for the custom muffler I want to build that hangs under the bike line a buell silencer. 

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That is really cool and I love the engine colour. I hope yuo can find room for the oil tank, 2 litres plus an air gap , I expect the normal DR frame tank has been designed to prevent the oil frothing or at least the flow allows time for the oil to settle enough for air bubbles to be removed.

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I think the oil tank can sit nicely where the stock air box was under the seat. I will use a couple of baffles in the tank and then put in a oil catch can as well.

 

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Well, the oil tank is complete. However the location I'm at it took me a while to get argon for my crappy DC TIG welder. Once they had the 10m^3 it was $1200. I was thinking of all the cool custom stuff I could have ordered for $1200. But what is the fun in this? This entire project was to kill time until I return to the US, so i guess its worth it in experience. Now I'll make the underslung 3 pass type muffler. That wont be near as tedious as the oil tank. I must have filled that thing 20 times with water till it passed the 2hr dry paper towel test. At it sits it will hold 2.5 liters at mid sight glass level. Then it will have all the hose and oil cooler volume as well. That DC TIG is hard to get use to after using AC for so many years.

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Nice. Very nice! I've yearned for a sight glass on my DR for years haha

Be interesting to see how that pipe affects the motor/performance (if at all). Should be fairly quiet though.

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Thanks,

          I know the 350 likes a little back pressure to get the most out of it. I have a variable flow flapper from another bike I have been working on how to integrate. However at the end I may just make a low profile downward facing disc style like the super trap. I don't think just the muffler alone will provide the reverse pulse that I need. Now once the perforated pipe arrives I'll have everything I need to give it a try. All that being said I still need to receive my 350SE CDI and figure out what wires I 100% have to make connect and what wires I can defeat because the donor bike doesn't have many latched safeties.

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Mine absolutely hates backpressure. When I put the db killer in the can I completely loose the ability to get the wheel up in 3rd and almost in 2nd.

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Some back pressure is good, particularly for low and mid-range power. I've done a lot of experiments with different bikes, pipes, and jetting over the years and the results are quite interesting (to me!).  Once you reduce silencing to the point where the tone is no longer crisp but more of an unpleasant drone then you lose power in the "usable" range, and sometimes gain a small amount nearer max revs.

DB killers are in my experience completely useless devices!  Well, they reduce Dbs by restricting flow, ie killing power as well as noise.

 

The best silencers have a certain amount of volume, plus baffles, so the flow is not so much restricted as sent round a few corners and the gas area expanded to reduce noise.  Any straight-through pipe does not do this. 

For example, KTM 4-st silencers use one or two baffles, plus a reasonable volume, plus replaceable wadding and produce a healthy crisp noise and plenty of power. CRD Absolute Performance another good one, The Absolute Power is straight through and too noisy/drony. I have an Arrow silencer on one DR, its OK, perhaps slightly restrictive compared to some but better than stock and not loud by an means.

The Supertrap exhaust reduces noise by restricting flow, its a very simple design but not very good if you want power *and* silencing.  

One of the best exhausts for the DR is one I have that Jesse from Kientec modified to open up the internals and exit hole - its a  little louder than stock but not offensive at all, but much more freerer flowing - good power everywhere.

That's all, for now ;)

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I agree about they DB killers being junk. I took the principal of using chambers and fiberglass matting for this one. I'm almost positive that I will grind it open or plasma cut a door in it to modify it. I just have to keep my mods annotated so I can build another one next year. I figure building one every season not only give me a way to kill some free time but to keep the same basic design and perfect it with the experience of a season of riding. Also since it gets 45c here its way too hot to ride so why not spend some time on the welder in my makeshift shop, after all I spent the entire summer tearing down the motor for rebuild, big bore, head work and powder coat. Then I have to create the motor mounts and mod the wire harness. The last thing to do is the CDI. The new digital CDI I bought says that a kickstand defeat wont work so I now have a stock DR harness and a kickstand switch to splice in. 

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Ok, now I have my stainless exhaust built. Unfortunately I had to use the crappy stock Chinese muffler because my perferated stainless pipe got lost in London somewhere??? Oh well I will mod the muffler to breathe a bit better her after break in of the 450 big bore kit from Kustom Kraft. The cdi is hacked in with crazy lose wires going everywhere so I'll need to build a custom wire harness tomorrow. (Happy Veterans day BTW) and hook up the gas tank with filter. But it runs. And it runs so well! I have a 32Tm with +3 main and +2 pilot. The starter is weak but it's a knock off. I'll have to get a much better starter and battery. I know it a heap, but I'm working to make it look as stock as possible. The police are so corrupt here that if they see it has been modified they will try everything to take it and make it their own.

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The CDI I picked up has a programable timing curve. That being said, ill be sticking with the stock settings for break in and see if it needs be be more aggressive later. I finished the wire harness with all the stock plugs. After butchering the 350 harness I was able to match all but 2 wires. This way I'm able to start a wiring diagram that will be easier to follow as the chinese were not consistant among bikes. We have 2 of these bikes and I found that the color codes don't match at all. 

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At this point in the game I'm now in the break in of the motor. I was running it at about 3k for 10 to 15 minutes then cooling down for a few hours. I would check the plug and then do it again. 

After about 3 days of this I started to get into the power band of the 450. WOW! If you want more power from the DR350 the big bore kit is the way to go. I started with a 48t then the 44t then the 40t now I'm settled at a 38t rear and a 15t front and it will just power wheelie 1st and pop up on the shift to 2nd. I found a chinese 125cc 6speed gear indicator, mounted it and spliced in the wiring. Now I have a 1-6 display working. I'm currently running 2.5L of oil but have the capacity of 3L. The oil cooler doesn't even remotely get hot just a little warm. But I havbt beat on it yet either. Loving this motor swap! I think with the new gears it will cruse at 80-90mph no problem. I also have a early DR250 bottom end I've been looking at building for the better transmission ratio.

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