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Hey, I have a 2018 DRZ400sm. Tonight I was following a YouTube video to install a new trail tech vapor dash. I’ll post a link to it at the end. So I disconnected everything and was curious with the ignition switch wire cut (like in the video) if everything would still work. So I turned the key and the headlight turned out. Great, cool. So I hook up the new one, turn the key and nothing. No power to the new dash, headlight and turn signals don’t work, and bike won’t start. What could have possibly happened???? I literally followed the video step by step, besides me turning the key with nothing hooked up. Could that have blown a fuse?

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Hey, I have a 2018 DRZ400sm. Tonight I was following a YouTube video to install a new trail tech vapor dash. I’ll post a link to it at the end. So I disconnected everything and was curious with the ignition switch wire cut (like in the video) if everything would still work. So I turned the key and the headlight turned out. Great, cool. So I hook up the new one, turn the key and nothing. No power to the new dash, headlight and turn signals don’t work, and bike won’t start. What could have possibly happened???? I literally followed the video step by step, besides me turning the key with nothing hooked up. Could that have blown a fuse?

Did you disconnect the battery when you wired it in?

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Did you run the red wire to the positive battery terminal and black to the negative ? I don't have sound here at this computer so can't say what he said to do .

 

For the temperature sensor , do not put it in the left radiator like he did , I have a much better and accurate place to put it since it's the 6mm x 1.0 probe . Go on the backside of the head just above the ACCT/MCCT , there is a bolt screwed in , take it out and put the probe in with a bit of RVT( I prefer red or orange here, copper would work). It will then allow you to see what the oil temperature is in the head right where it's the hottest and where you'll see a spike if something is going wrong . I had 2 probes on my DRZ for a while to compare best spots , one in the left radiator and one in the head , I seldom saw 130ºF in the rad(often 90-105º with cooler air temp), but close to 200ºF(ave 180-190ºf) in the head and it changed quicker with how I was riding. The radiator mount is only reading what the coolant is after going through the right and generally only changes if the thermostat is open, different air temps altered how close it was as well . Too far off to be any good to save a motor if something goes wrong IMHO .

 

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Edited by jjktmrider
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Did you run the red wire to the positive battery terminal and black to the negative ? I don't have sound here at this computer so can't say what he said to do .
 
For the temperature sensor , do not put it in the left radiator like he did , I have a much better and accurate place to put it since it's the 6mm x 1.0 probe . Go on the backside of the head just above the ACCT/MCCT , there is a bolt screwed in , take it out and put the probe in with a bit of RVT( I prefer red or orange here, copper would work). It will then allow you to see what the oil temperature is in the head right where it's the hottest and where you'll see a spike if something is going wrong . I had 2 probes on my DRZ for a while to compare best spots , one in the left radiator and one in the head , I seldom saw 130ºF in the rad(often 90-105º with cooler air temp), but close to 200ºF(ave 180-190ºf) in the head and it changed quicker with how I was riding. The radiator mount is only reading what the coolant is after going through the right and generally only changes if the thermostat is open, different air temps altered how close it was as well . Too far off to be any good to save a motor if something goes wrong IMHO .
 
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Well I couldn’t even get that far because the bike has no power when I turn the key. I got as far as hooking up the power wires..

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Have you checked the main fuse? 

Since you didn't disconnect the battery, you might have blown the it.

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