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On our bike, when adding accessories like led lights or usb outlet etc.. Is it better to hook up the ground wire of what you add directly to the negative of the battery or somewhere on the frame its just fine ?

 

Im asking because in the past several weeks i added 2 spot light up front, using the high beam wire for + and "frame" for ground (light work no problems) and also added 3 single red led in the back. First i tapped into the wire from the tail light (drc edge 2)and ground wire to frame, but after a week i saw that my rear turn signal werent working properly. I cut off the + of the rear led and the tail light turn signal started to work fine again..weird.

THEN, for some reason i put my meter on the CUT OFF wire of the rear led and frame and it shows 4V ?... It seems that some power is back feeding.

This AM, on my way to work, my turn signal. Light on the "dashboard" was lit, dimed but on. When i used the turn signals the green light got brighter.. On my way back from work, no issues...

 

Uou have now 3 minutes to give me an answer before this message will auto destruct ...

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A good ground anyplace will be fine.  But a ground connection an anodized aluminum or painted frame member may not be a good ground.  So ground to a bare metal surface of the main frame or tap into a black with white stripe ground wire.

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Just adding more lights and relays etc now. I have run a complete new earth and power feed to the back of the headlight, just for that reason. Would rather not take the chance of overloading any circuits when I know nothing about their current carrying capacities.

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You can assume the original circuits are at or near capacity. Suzuki and motorcycles in general did not waste money on wires larger than needed for the original configuration.

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1 hour ago, Noble said:

You can assume the original circuits are at or near capacity. Suzuki and motorcycles in general did not waste money on wires larger than needed for the original configuration.

Its the opposite with some car manufacturers. ( think euro) The earth circuits in the tail lights can't even support the total current flow. Actually nissan also had/have a problem with the headlight earth. Half the gauge of the power feeds. Don't know where they expected the other half of the current flow to go. I wonder how low they will go in wire gauge when LEDs are more common place. 

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Thanks guys for your inputs !! I'll work in the bike this weekend. Thanks again

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If you are adding a few things or may in the future. 
If you want to be able to select (and easily change) the item being powered key on only, key off only or a circuit for both.

The FZ1 Fuse block might be for you https://www.fuzeblocks.com

Been using and installing them for about 4 years now, never had one fail..... They have been on DR650s taken on adventure rides to central and south America. Street bikes that see all weather riding...and many others.

 

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I rerouted all my ground cables from the front and rear LED to the neg of the battery.

The problem with the turn signal light on the dash is still the same. I checked the DRC wires for continuity with the frame and the orange wire from the drc do have some but its on and off. Ill have to check what is this wire cuz i dont remember if its the stop light (its a 3 wires connector)

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On 10/19/2018 at 8:57 AM, Erik Marquez said:

If you are adding a few things or may in the future. 
If you want to be able to select (and easily change) the item being powered key on only, key off only or a circuit for both.

The FZ1 Fuse block might be for you https://www.fuzeblocks.com


 

Wowzer. They sure are proud of everything they sell. I've been thinking about how I was going to add the accessories I have planned for my bike and where I was going to put everything. I've gone back to my truck forum roots and I will be using http://www.genuinedealz.com or https://gregsmarinewiresupply.com with a blue sea systems fuse block. 

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38 minutes ago, BlueHeart said:

Wowzer. They sure are proud of everything they sell. I've been thinking about how I was going to add the accessories I have planned for my bike and where I was going to put everything. I've gone back to my truck forum roots and I will be using http://www.genuinedealz.com or https://gregsmarinewiresupply.com with a blue sea systems fuse block. 

?????? Have no idea what your saying here... Nor did you show or link to a like product at lesser cost.

If you have a source for a small, robust, relay controlled self contained fuse block that has the ability to control 6 or more circuits user select Key on or constant power at  a cheaper price, please post up.  

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2 hours ago, Erik Marquez said:

?????? Have no idea what your saying here... Nor did you show or link to a like product at lesser cost.

If you have a source for a small, robust, relay controlled self contained fuse block that has the ability to control 6 or more circuits user select Key on or constant power at  a cheaper price, please post up.  

What I was saying is that they want a lot of money for a fuse block. Then I looked at the wiring they sell. All of it looked over-priced to me. Maybe if I didn't necessarily know what I needed and wanted someone else to figure it out for me, the pre-made harness and fuse block would look like a bargain. Especially with your endorsement.

If I hadn't already been researching this and purchased from the 2 sources I linked, I would have probably gone ahead and ordered, no questions asked. My links weren't posted to show a cheaper alternative per se, but to link to alternatives that are out there. Here's a direct link to the fuse block page. http://www.genuinedealz.com/marine-electrical-supply/fuses-and-blocks?limit=all&manufacturer=12

This isn't what I remembered looking at, but they weren't anywhere near $80.

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I went kiss (Keep It Simple Stupid) with my fuel injection install.  I used a double pole relay with a waterproof base and two waterproof blade fuses. One does the fuel pump and the other is the spark coil on cap power supply. The relay is rated at 2 x 35 amps, both fuses are ten amp.   I printed a ninja flex holder to hold the relay to the shock body.  If anyone is interested I'll get the part numbers and pop the STL for the holder up on thingy verse.  

1737048307_Fuseandrelay.thumb.jpg.aaabfbcf21f2870577a3e5c9e0144f14.jpg924632361_Fuseandrelay2.thumb.jpg.ba0997de3036db739167ace5bce9004a.jpg1919902869_Fuseandrelay3.thumb.jpg.2e0691a0f65ba3d75fe72db9a593bd52.jpg

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6 hours ago, BlueHeart said:

What I was saying is that they want a lot of money for a fuse block. Then I looked at the wiring they sell. All of it looked over-priced to me. Maybe if I didn't necessarily know what I needed and wanted someone else to figure it out for me, the pre-made harness and fuse block would look like a bargain. Especially with your endorsement.

If I hadn't already been researching this and purchased from the 2 sources I linked, I would have probably gone ahead and ordered, no questions asked. My links weren't posted to show a cheaper alternative per se, but to link to alternatives that are out there. Here's a direct link to the fuse block page. http://www.genuinedealz.com/marine-electrical-supply/fuses-and-blocks?limit=all&manufacturer=12

This isn't what I remembered looking at, but they weren't anywhere near $80.

Ahh, ok,,, i thought you were showing a link to a like product, got it now. 

I use Blue Sea products a lot,,, and unfortunately they have no like product to the FZ 1 Fuseblock. 

What you linked to is JUST a fuse block... No user selectable Key on or constant power choice. No Relay to control that power from a simple low wattage trigger source. And not even a ground buss bar..
Ive used these fuse blocks on off road vehicles though, nice part for what it is.

Id challenge you to add up all the components needed to make a fuse block that is relay controlled, has 6 fuse protected circuits that are user selectable constant power or key on, in  small weather resistant box.....and see what your home built unit will cost..I think you will find $89 is not much for what your getting.. but to each his own.. Some are happy with 4 or 5 ring terminals connected to the battery, a few relays stuffed here and there and wires running to each powered item with a fuse along the way.. some are looking for a better way (I think that is you) 

Some other like items to the FZ1

Eastern Beaver makes the PC 8, but its $100 plus shipping from Japan and is a less compact and elegant solution.  

image.png.0d387141e223308c1a16f61f9a65209f.png

 

Or there is the PDM60 from Rowe Electronics for $198.00 A very nice solution and one that has to be used when it is needed on a bike with CANBUS systems 
image.png.254de5cce62e0fd8007954dc0c65512a.png

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6 hours ago, roleyrev said:

I went kiss (Keep It Simple Stupid) with my fuel injection install.  I used a double pole relay with a waterproof base and two waterproof blade fuses. One does the fuel pump and the other is the spark coil on cap power supply. The relay is rated at 2 x 35 amps, both fuses are ten amp.   I printed a ninja flex holder to hold the relay to the shock body.  If anyone is interested I'll get the part numbers and pop the STL for the holder up on thingy verse.  

 

A very clean solution for sure, well done.

Something I noticed.... folks with access to a 3D printer are in some ways like folks with to access to a full shop....we forget sometimes the huge hurdle it is for others when we offer up our solutions that they do not have access to...Im guilty as charged..


When you offered your print for the oil vapory recovery box I was grateful...and thought what an easy solution, just have it printed..........then I found out it was going to be about $250 at the cheapest to have it done.
Your holder that you printed, it would be cheaper for me to ask you to do it, pay costs, plus buy it a overnight trip to me from New Zealand then it would be to have it printed locally. 

But for those that have access to a printer.... Thank you for sharing the file and your solution...it really is a clean looking install, as was your whole FI swap.

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7 hours ago, Erik Marquez said:

A very clean solution for sure, well done.

Something I noticed.... folks with access to a 3D printer are in some ways like folks with to access to a full shop....we forget sometimes the huge hurdle it is for others when we offer up our solutions that they do not have access to...Im guilty as charged..


When you offered your print for the oil vapory recovery box I was grateful...and thought what an easy solution, just have it printed..........then I found out it was going to be about $250 at the cheapest to have it done.
Your holder that you printed, it would be cheaper for me to ask you to do it, pay costs, plus buy it a overnight trip to me from New Zealand then it would be to have it printed locally. 

But for those that have access to a printer.... Thank you for sharing the file and your solution...it really is a clean looking install, as was your whole FI swap.

Yes, in many ways you are right.  Also a 3d printer is only half the solution - 3D cad being the other half.  For $250US you would be half the way to buying yourself a cheap 3D printer.  Two oil boxes and a speedo back and it would have paid for its self!.  I guess the lack of access to your market also forces my hand a little.  I have little chance of being able to purchase the afore mentioned products in this part of the world, let alone the freight costs and the wait time if I did, so the printer allows the creation of customised solutions to fit the need.  I also note of late that many public library's have invested in 3D printing and laser etching and offer it for minimal cost or even free in some instances 

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15 hours ago, Erik Marquez said:

Ahh, ok,,, i thought you were showing a link to a like product, got it now. 

I use Blue Sea products a lot,,, and unfortunately they have no like product to the FZ 1 Fuseblock. 

What you linked to is JUST a fuse block... No user selectable Key on or constant power choice. No Relay to control that power from a simple low wattage trigger source. And not even a ground buss bar..
Ive used these fuse blocks on off road vehicles though, nice part for what it is.

Id challenge you to add up all the components needed to make a fuse block that is relay controlled, has 6 fuse protected circuits that are user selectable constant power or key on, in  small weather resistant box.....and see what your home built unit will cost..I think you will find $89 is not much for what your getting.. but to each his own.. Some are happy with 4 or 5 ring terminals connected to the battery, a few relays stuffed here and there and wires running to each powered item with a fuse along the way.. some are looking for a better way (I think that is you) 

Blue Sea does have the 35 & 37 that are 6 circuit fuse protected and can be constant or switched with the weatherproof cover for around $30. It doesn't have the negative bus bar, but that's extremely inexpensive. Nor does it have the relay.

My needs are rather specific to my ADHD and OCD peculiarities. When I do anything, I have a process I have to follow. Otherwise things get missed or forgotten. 

Same with my bike. When I conclude a ride, I stop and put it into neutral, I shut the key off, switch the petcock to off and then proceed to get off the bike.

Then my process for taking gear off...and so on.

I will feel more comfortable with a switch to shut off the switchable circuits separate from the key. It's all part of the process....:ride:

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