'08 fork levels

[Evan D]

Probably a simple answer...

Book says 13.75oz in the fork but that after draining there's 0.4 left in the tube. I put in 13oz since I want it a little soft. Correct?

Then it says 6.3oz goes in the damper, but then it says the level should be 1.75" to the inset. When I put in 6.3oz and measure its 1.375". Which is correct or do I put in 6.3 and then add until it measures 1.75?

I found it hard to but the damper back in and it says that may mean there's too much oil in the damper??

 

Anyway I left it as 6.3oz in each damper and 13oz (plus the 0.4 the manual says remains in them) and buttoned them up. I'm waiting on a new front rim and bearings/ seals and brake rotors for both wheels to get it back on its feet and see how the forks feel.

 

Edited October 20, 2018 by Evan D

[wioffroader]

If you have the service manual look at page 13-24 to 13-31 it should help you. Here is a link to it. 

 

http://www.mediafire.com/file/7tobfh1q3o9fq7b/Honda+CRF450R_07-08_service_manual.pdf#

 

[Evan D]

I assume that's the same as the owners manual/ competition handbook has... It wants to download a bunch of crap so I didn't look at it.

[wioffroader]

I assume that's the same as the owners manual/ competition handbook has... It wants to download a bunch of crap so I didn't look at it.

Google service manual for 2008 Crf450r. It should show up.

It’s different, but suit yourself.

[Evan D]

Downloaded and I don't see any information in there different than what the owners manual has. Any idea what you saw different?

[mlatour]

As with most closed cartridge forks, the amount suggested for the inner cartridge is only a 'nominal' value

to avoid trapping any air inside, it is normal practice to slightly overfill them,

the excess oil later purged out when you compress the rod in all the way after bolting in the base valve assy.

 

As for the outer tube volume, again the suggested amount is usually mid-way in the usable range.

Going lower or higher will effect the progression in the last 1/3rd of the stroke.

[HRC27]

Here's pages 13-24 & 13-31. May be the same thing as in your owners manual. Make sure you watch the videos I posted on your other thread. Especially, the RM one which I think goes into filling the inner chamber. The oil in the inner chamber stays really clean so you'll find that you only have to change the outer chamber most of the time.

Edited October 21, 2018 by HRC27

[Evan D]

Thank to the both of you. I saw in both manuals how after filling and capping the damper you blow out or drain extra oil. So it really didn't matter if the damper level measured 1 3/4 or 13/8 since both were more than the volume and would have extra to blow out.

Then I filled the fork with the desired amount, which I chose to be 13oz per fork.

 

Robert, I don't see any fork videos. I did see a good one on cleaning.

[HRC27]

8 hours ago, Evan D said:

Thanks to the both oin you. I saw in both manuals how after fillbelieved capping the damper you blow out or drain extra oil. So it really didn't matter if the damper level measured 1 3/4 or 13/8 since both were more than the volume and would have extra to blow out.

Then I filled the fork with the desired amount, which I chose to be 13oz per fork.

 

Robert, I don't see any fork videos. I did see a good one on cleaning.

On your other thread, the cracks In both wheels thread I posted three videos, a 2 part from RM and one from Dirt Rider I  believe. The RM ones should address the Inner chamber. Regardless, what you did sounds right.

I think he works on KYB's, can't recall for sure, but your's will be similar. Not sure if these links will take you straight there, but you can click "How-to, dirtbike, chassis, then find the videos (part 1 and 2) on "How to change dual chamber motorcycle fork seals". RM has lots of good videos linked near the bottom of each page, in the bottom/right of the red section. And yes, he covers the handling of the inner chamber.

EDIT:  Checked and the videos were posted on the 2nd page of your other thread.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/rm-rider-exchange/videos/how-to/dirt-bike/

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/rm-rider-exchange/videos/how-to/dirt-bike/

Edited October 21, 2018 by HRC27

[HRC27]

These should take you straight to those videos on YouTube. Anyway, watch the 2nd one especially to make sure you did the inner chamber right.  I do it the same as him, just dump out any extra. No need to blow it out. Also, when you bleed it, you can tape over the holes so no oil comes out. All this is just for future reference because, again, it sounds like you did it right.

 

 

Edited October 21, 2018 by HRC27

[Shawn_Mc]

If you're looking for volumes, use 200cc on the inner, and 375cc on the outer chamber. Over filling the inner chamber too much will make it nearly impossible to get assembled. Trust me, Ive done this fork literally hundreds of times.

And that Rockymountain guy is a bit of a bozo. It's a hell of a lot easier to grab the damper rod with the tool by screwing the inner into the outer, then turn the thing over, put the top on a rag and use your body weight to collapse the spring enough to grab the rod with a holder. Also, if the oil is really bad looking, I'll take about 25cc of kerosene and 25cc of fork oil, mix it up and use it for a flush on the inner chamber.

One thing about filling the inner. Take your time. Get as many bubbles out first as you can. Don't pull on the rod too fast or you'll paint the ceiling with fork oil. Typically, I'll measure the amount of oil in the inner damper with a ruler like a dip stick so I dont get it too full. AT 1.75" from the top, there wont be a huge amount of over fill. Maybe 10cc, if that. Dunk the base bolt (basically the piston) into your fork oil before you put it into the inner, that helps bleed it quicker. And when your doing this, make sure the clickers are all the way OPEN.

[TX-SANDMAN]

15 hours ago, Shawn_Mc said:

If you're looking for volumes, use 200cc on the inner, and 375cc on the outer chamber. Over filling the inner chamber too much will make it nearly impossible to get assembled. Trust me, Ive done this fork literally hundreds of times.

And that Rockymountain guy is a bit of a bozo. It's a hell of a lot easier to grab the damper rod with the tool by screwing the inner into the outer, then turn the thing over, put the top on a rag and use your body weight to collapse the spring enough to grab the rod with a holder. Also, if the oil is really bad looking, I'll take about 25cc of kerosene and 25cc of fork oil, mix it up and use it for a flush on the inner chamber.

One thing about filling the inner. Take your time. Get as many bubbles out first as you can. Don't pull on the rod too fast or you'll paint the ceiling with fork oil. Typically, I'll measure the amount of oil in the inner damper with a ruler like a dip stick so I dont get it too full. AT 1.75" from the top, there wont be a huge amount of over fill. Maybe 10cc, if that. Dunk the base bolt (basically the piston) into your fork oil before you put it into the inner, that helps bleed it quicker. And when your doing this, make sure the clickers are all the way OPEN.

Good advice.

fyi.....imho in stock form these forks work much better with lower (less ) oil ..... in the 11-12 oz range for all around slow - medium mx riding 170 lbs rider.

[Evan D]

I was going to let this die since the forks are done and back on the bike.

Shawn, the 1.75" level in the damper is not from the top, it's from a ledge under the oil level. I'll attach a picture.

As I said I used 13oz or 385ml in the fork. This is added to the residual 0.25-0.4oz or 7-12ml after draining. I put 6.3oz or 186ml in the damper and then drained excess as per the book. Odd was that the 6.3oz gave me a 1 3/8 level in one damper and 1.75 (as stated in the book) in the other with both drained the same way prior to filling.

The amount of oil is personal preference depending on riding style and weight. I'm trail riding, old and fat so I figured 13oz would be good going by the book and what others on here are using. Either way they are back on the bike and I've moved on to the next project of new rims, spokes, bearings, disks and sprockets.

 

Thanks

Edited October 22, 2018 by Evan D

[WERNER1]

Yeah it's a real pain to assemble that inner chamber when you over fill it... doable,.. but not easy that's for sure.

With my suspension revalved( softer/plusher..), and resprung for my weight and riding style (210 and Fast aggressive rocky woods riding)... 365 cc's in the outer tubes was/is still too much IMO... I'm going to lower mine by another 10cc's and see if it feels better... Just throwing out my experience on this :)

Edited October 22, 2018 by WERNER1

[Shawn_Mc]

16 hours ago, Evan D said:

I was going to let this die since the forks are done and back on the bike.

Shawn, the 1.75" level in the damper is not from the top, it's from a ledge under the oil level. I'll attach a picture.

As I said I used 13oz or 385ml in the fork. This is added to the residual 0.25-0.4oz or 7-12ml after draining. I put 6.3oz or 186ml in the damper and then drained excess as per the book. Odd was that the 6.3oz gave me a 1 3/8 level in one damper and 1.75 (as stated in the book) in the other with both drained the same way prior to filling.

The amount of oil is personal preference depending on riding style and weight. I'm trail riding, old and fat so I figured 13oz would be good going by the book and what others on here are using. Either way they are back on the bike and I've moved on to the next project of new rims, spokes, bearings, disks and sprockets.

 

Thanks

Ya, I worded that badly. I use a 1" wide steel ruler like a dip stick when I do it. But if the fork isn't bled really well, the damper can be under serviced (not enough oil) and it'll act funny.