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New to me 1986 XL600R

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Hey guys need some advise.  I was given this bike yesterday by an older member of a club I belong too.  Has been sitting for years under a covered overhang of a walkway.  Seems like it is pretty complete, but the rear of the motor and under the swing arms areas were covered with a heavy caked on layer of oil.  It was really heavy by both footpegs and the kick starter area.  

I process of cleaning it now so I can see whats up, but are there any areas I should look to as a source for all the oil contamination.  

bike has 12K on clock, does kick through by hand and I hear compression escaping sounds from compression release gizmos.  

 

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Sounds like its gonna have some water in the engine....... Sitting in the elements. (fixable)

You are going to have that to deal with along with seals, bearings and electrical issues from................... the elements.

See what works and go from there ,,,,.... it may need just a little help to live again.

BUT .....that year........ and what parts that are still  available (what parts you need anyway) is the question.

Inspection time!!! Good luck it is a good bike.

 

Edited by EarthCruzn

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He got this one running

He shows you a few tricks.................

3 hours ago, jagarra said:

Hey guys need some advise.  I was given this bike yesterday by an older member of a club I belong too.  Has been sitting for years under a covered overhang of a walkway.  Seems like it is pretty complete, but the rear of the motor and under the swing arms areas were covered with a heavy caked on layer of oil.  It was really heavy by both footpegs and the kick starter area.  

I process of cleaning it now so I can see whats up, but are there any areas I should look to as a source for all the oil contamination.  

bike has 12K on clock, does kick through by hand and I hear compression escaping sounds from compression release gizmos.  

 

This might help you get a idea.....

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Hey guys, thanks for the advise and the link to the video.  Figured the carbs would have to be pulled and all the gaskets replaced.  throttle linkage does not feel right. limited movement less than a quarter turn, so will have to pull air box, don't want to break that rubber intake unit.  Did more cleaning, dumped the oil, other than being real dirty, no sign of any water in there, measured 1 1/2 quarts that came out.  Tank was empty, just a little in the bottom, about a half cup of really orange stuff.  Has a Clark desert tank as well as the stocker which has damage on both sides.  Clark tank is almost bleached white from the sun.  Chain master was so rusty had to cut the master off with a dremel.  Waiting for repair book to get here before I do much more.  I like to read up on stuff before I tear into too far.  Plastic all good except the rear fender bit, wiring looks undisturbed.   

I did see that Honda has the fork seals and carburetor gasket kits available, I figure best to go with factory on that stuff.  

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You are doing it the right way, yeppers on the factory carb and motor stuff..................

aftermarket on the body is ok to a point.................. but you want OEM in the heart of it......

Good luck with it.............. you will be glad you did it right .............

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I ordered carb kits plus floats  and the forks seals this AM from Babbitts Honda.    My local dealer was charging 50% more than Babbitts. 

Are riders modifying the air input , as they using the stock set up with the cover on the air box with air coming in through the snorkel on top or are they leaving the side of the air box open for more air flow?  

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the side open is a lot of air.................... usually done with a LARGER pumper carb and engine mods (cam / piston) 

the snorkel removed is usually right for most with ALL the stock carb MODs done and exhaust and filter

Edited by EarthCruzn

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Mine is white and red.  The stock tank is damaged on both side, it also came with a Clark desert tank.  It was really oxidized from being out in the sun so long, even though it was red it was oxidized white.  Spent many, many hours scrubbing it down with OO steel wool, got it looking a nice maroon.  Now in waiting mode for parts.

 

thanks,

 

gg

 

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Another thing I would like some feedback on is lowering links for this model.  I have a 29" inseam so the stock height is a bit too much for me .  I am looking at the Kuba link, good for 1-3/4" and the XR'S Only link good for 1-1/2"  Has any of you riders tried any of these products?   

 

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XR's is a true 1 1/2" that's about all you can get (not sure the Kuba true reading) ............... ask them to "press in" the bearings for you .............. save you a head ache and you still need to do it. XR's charged me $25 for pre-greasing the bearings and pressing them in............ they did a good job.

also it has a zerk fitting on theirs............. I installed one it comes with the bump stop for the shock and keeper hardware.................easy 1/2 to 1 hour job.

and well worth the money..........makes the bike just right for me......I am your size.

You can also drop the front forks a bit.............. not much about a 1/2".you can see the tapper.

You will have the kick stand to deal with......... its now a 1" longer............... but dealable even without adjustment............just watch how you park......... they offer short ones

but just trim and weld the plate if the size works for you and you will never need a longer stand.................................. I left mine as is and just park according to terrain.

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Soupy's Performance has threaded adjustable links 1 to 2 inches with bearings for $120.

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I started the process of taking the carburetors off.  I have everything out of the way for the air cleaner box to come out, but for the life of me I cannot find the right position to get it to clear the frame rails.  tool box out, rear fender gone, rear wheel off, no chain guard,  exhaust, including header removed, do I have to pull the rear shock to get it in a position to clear the frame.  items on the battery side are wider than the frame.  May have to get the porta power out and widen the frame 😁

Edited by jagarra

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A 600 guy should chime in soon.............. I never pulled double carbs

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Search for a post by Horri in this forum re. removing the carbs from XL600R's.  Take care as the rubber boots are unobtanium.  So is the insulator between the carbs and engine.

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Well after taking the rear shock off, which is a PIA as the lower bolt doesn't have enough side clearance to slide out until most of the links have been removed, I got the air box out!!!!!  Looking at a factory service manual copy 83-84 (http://www.hondaxl.it/manuali.htm) they make it sound so easy, just remove items 1,2,3 and it slides out PHOOEY no  such luck.  Kits get here today, intake boots soaking in wintergreen and alcohol mix.

 

 

Edited by jagarra

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be careful not to swell any rubber parts with cleaners or solvents!!!!

some are VERY hard if not impossible to replace................. many have had to change up fuel systems because of a simple rubber compound going bad.......

some is available $$$$ but just don't take chances if your not sure.................. soap and water

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6 hours ago, jagarra said:

Well after taking the rear shock off, which is a PIA as the lower bolt doesn't have enough side clearance to slide out until most of the links have been removed, I got the air box out!!!!!  Looking at a factory service manual copy 83-84 (http://www.hondaxl.it/manuali.htm) they make it sound so easy, just remove items 1,2,3 and it slides out PHOOEY no  such luck.  Kits get here today, intake boots soaking in wintergreen and alcohol mix.

 

 

That's supposed to be wintergreen oil and acetone. Alcohol dries stuff out.

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I did a bit of looking on internet for processes of softening hard rubber and it seems the best  and most common method I saw was the 3 to 1 mixture of  alcohol and wintergreen oil .  I just pulled my boots out of the mix after an 30 hour soak, they are nice and pliable again, I can squeeze it together so both side touch, there seems to be no degradation of the rubber at all.  I stuck the intake boot in the mix now, it was like concrete, had a hell of a time getting it off the carburetors.   

When I was looking at the factory manual I supplied the link to and my new just arrived yesterday Clymer manual for the removal of the rear shock they say to remove the air box first.    But I had to remove the shock to get the air box out.  Seems like a catch 22 to me.    Guess the secret is to develop a method of installing the rear shock with the air box loosen and sort of floating around in the frame.  

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