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I'm trying

Too much oil spooge

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I'm trying to nail down what's causing an excessive oil from my exaust. I've pulled the carb and it's clean, no blockage. It's set to standard settings according to the manual. I pulled the plug and it's fouled. 

I think it might be 3 things possible.

1. Worn out reeds

2. Worn out crank seals

3. Worn out piston and rings

Not really hard to start. Bottom end seems lacking and not really any over rev. Powerband seems a little light switchy. Other than that it seems to run pretty good. 

Any ideas on what's causing this? Thx

 

20181021_170624.jpg

20181021_175038.jpg

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check your piston if its not that check reeds, then you should no weather it crank seals my CR does this also seems to run great but nearly smokes out the whole town im yet to change my seals but i know its them, I searched up videos and apparently i dont have to split cases to change there is another red neck hack that involves a wood screw ahah.

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Definitely running too rich. I'm guessing '03 CR250, maintenance, how long have you owned, etc..............If this bike is new to you prolly needs all of the above. G

Edited by G 9.5
aeg q3g

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41 minutes ago, G 9.5 said:

Definitely running too rich. I'm guessing '03 CR250, maintenance, how long have you owned, etc..............If this bike is new to you prolly needs all of the above. G

Yes 03 cr250r. I've had for few yrs now but I haven't ridden it much to warrant any major maintenance yet. If I had to guess, I'd say I've put about 50hrs on it. Maybe more IDK. I'm planning on doing all 3 this winter and cleaning up the power valve as well. I just want to know what the reason is for all this excessive oil.

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4 hours ago, I'm trying said:

1. Worn out reeds

2. Worn out crank seals

3. Worn out piston and rings

 

Engine no doubt due to refurbish but you can also add to the list:

4. float/fuel level too high, inlet needle/seat worn  (high fuel level richening all metering circuits)

5. worn needle jet / orifice, un-metered fuel drawn in that no amount of tuning can cure

6. using a 'racing' premix oil in a trail or off-road ridden bike that never reaches high combustion temps

7. using non genuine/replacement jets that flow way more than their indicated numbers

8. stock 'MX' jetting specs in trail ridden bike, way too rich

9. spark plug's heat range too cold

 

but considering the age of the bike, likely a combination of many things.

Edited by mlatour

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23 minutes ago, mlatour said:

 

Engine no doubt due to refurbish but you can also add to the list:

4. float/fuel level too high, inlet needle/seat worn  (high fuel level richening all metering circuits)

5. worn needle jet / orifice, un-metered fuel drawn in that no amount of tuning can cure

6. using a 'racing' premix oil in a trail or off-road ridden bike that never reaches high combustion temps

7. using non genuine/replacement jets that flow way more than their indicated numbers

8. stock 'MX' jetting specs in trail ridden bike, way too rich

9. spark plug's heat range too cold

 

but considering the age of the bike, likely a combination of many things.

I have the carb apart right now with new carb kit to go in. All stock specs. Its actually really clean though you can tell the age on the jets and needle. I am currently trying to figure out the float level. I have vernier calipers and the best I can do is eyeball it. I'm unsure how to do this properly. The manual says 15mm and from my eyeball looks about right. Maybe 16mm. I'd really like to know how to do this properly. 

It is trail ridden but I do get on it though when I can. Last ride was mostly 1-3 gears and not a lot of revs. So maybe something there.

Always used dominator oil. Don't know if that's classed as racing premix or not.

I have a new plug going in that is spec according to the manual. The one I pulled out was a slightly different number. Maybe bc it's older IDK I haven't checked yet.

I'll be riding this weekend and see how the new carb kit works along with a new plug. I'm going to go down a mill or two on the float and up 1 on the needle clip. See how it works out. Only this ride and maybe another before it gets parked and refurbished over the winter.

 

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Since you’ve owned this bike for a while, have you ever seen this with it?  If not then it sounds like a maintenance issue.

Quick tip, you can monitor your transmission oil level and your coolant level without taking anything apart.

Other than that you have a long list of things to check.  Take the opportunity to do a complete tear down and rebuild everything.

Let us know if you have any more questions.

 

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I forgot to add that when I pulled the plug, I checked the gap and it was .65 and the manual states between .5 and .6 Maybe this is contributing ad well.

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4 minutes ago, Fitz235 said:

Another thing that I think gets overlooked a lot, is too much oil on the air filter. This will also cause it to run rich.

You know this actually crossed my mind. But i put a brand new twin air filter in and coated it good with maxima spray oil just before this.

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1 minute ago, I'm trying said:

You know this actually crossed my mind. But i put a brand new twin air filter in and coated it good with maxima spray oil just before this.

It's tough to say what is too much oil, but the general idea is to just have enough oil on it to be sticky. When I do mine, I work it in, and then absorb the excess with paper towels. 

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11 hours ago, I'm trying said:

I have the carb apart right now with new carb kit to go in. 

It is trail ridden but I do get on it though when I can. Last ride was mostly 1-3 gears and not a lot of revs. So maybe something there.

Always used dominator oil. Don't know if that's classed as racing premix or not.

 

That right there are 3 possibilities to add variables / contribute to excess spooge.

 

- 'carb kit' meaning generic replacement and hopefully equivalent jets, OEM parts are sold individually and flow tested.

 

- trail ridden, the engine would probably greatly benefit from leaner pilot and needle settings, keeping the main jet rich for WOT moments in open terrain.

Running a slightly lower float level than the standard MX specs as well to prevent overflow in slow rough / off-camber or hilly terrain.

 

- Amsoil Dominator is a racing premix with a high flash point, even for recreational motocross it requires high combustion temps to fully burn the excess.

  Amsoil Interceptor would be much better suited for your application.

 

Trail riding an MX race bike meant for constant WOT accelerations requires fine tuning,

getting on the pipe for occasional short blasts doesn't even come close to what the engine is tuned for in stock form.

Edited by mlatour
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I just ordered a 410, 400main, 27.5, 25 pilot and next size down needle from Honda. I'm going to install the stock for now and see how that goes along with the adjustments. I'll play around with it to see what works. As for the interceptor oil, I plan on doing scrambles in the spring. Will this be fine?

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Ive been dealing with the exact same thing on my 01 yz 125, You should call JD jetting (360) 350-0557, they helped me fix my last two bikes that had this problem.

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2 hours ago, I'm trying said:

As for the interceptor oil, I plan on doing scrambles in the spring. Will this be fine?

No problem,

I've be running Interceptor exclusively in my MX track ridden YZ125 for the past 7 years,

it's still on it's original crank and rod, no signs of wear.

 

Fine tuning the jetting or jet 'kits' is the last step to do once you've confirmed any 2-stroke engine is mechanically sound,

(no air leaks, fresh reeds, crank seals, silencer packing, properly serviced air filter, correct float level, fresh fuel, proper premix ratio and type, etc.)

any attempts in tuning if either of these is questionable is a waste of time and, just a band aid to mask the real issue.

 

Edited by mlatour

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22 hours ago, I'm trying said:

I'm trying to nail down what's causing an excessive oil from my exaust. I've pulled the carb and it's clean, no blockage. It's set to standard settings according to the manual. I pulled the plug and it's fouled. 

I think it might be 3 things possible.

1. Worn out reeds

2. Worn out crank seals

3. Worn out piston and rings

Not really hard to start. Bottom end seems lacking and not really any over rev. Powerband seems a little light switchy. Other than that it seems to run pretty good. 

Any ideas on what's causing this? Thx

 

20181021_170624.jpg

20181021_175038.jpg

first of all... put some rtv sealant around the seal of your pipe and silencer to reduce the amount of spooge getting everywhere.

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RTV'ing the joints...Out of sight, out of mind I guess...

 

The excess unburnt oil will just accumulate inside the pipe and more will leak once it reaches the silencer.

Fixing the problem will stop the spooging for good.

Edited by mlatour
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1 hour ago, mlatour said:

No problem,

I've be running Interceptor exclusively in my MX track ridden YZ125 for the past 7 years,

it's still on it's original crank and rod, no signs of wear.

 

Fine tuning the jetting or jet 'kits' is the last step to do once you've confirmed any 2-stroke engine is mechanically sound,

(no air leaks, fresh reeds, crank seals, silencer packing, properly serviced air filter, correct float level, fresh fuel, proper premix ratio and type, etc.)

any attempts in tuning if either of these is questionable is a waste of time and, just a band aid to mask the real issue.

 

I know I'm doing a band aid sort of way right now. Only a couple more rides till I put a new top end and crank seals. I just ordered the gasket for the reeds today. ( reeds will be ordered or purchased tomorrow ) I'm hoping to get the jetting sorted some what. I have a whole laundry list of things to do over the winter. Essentially going to be a new bike in the spring. All bearings, gaskets, lube grease, plastics, rads whatever needs or doesn't need. I want this bike as reliable as I can make it to race. But in the mean time this oil thing is bothering me. 

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