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High Output stator, Oil, and wheelies

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so my 2015 450 sx-f has a fly-wheel weight.  woohoo!  dealer was right!  dealer also said that the PO installed a high output stator.  any chance these pics can tell you knowledgeable sort that I have one?

if the pics are useless for determining it's modified, how can I test the output of the stator and if it can handle lights?

my oil came out with a metallic sheen.  seems this is normal.  but posting a pic to be safe.

i'll post the wheelies bit elsewhere.  made you look.

IMG_9694.jpg

IMG_9691.jpg

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I would not say that is normal. Tough to tell from that picture but that seems like a LOT of metal in your oil. It is normal to have a few flecks in there but that seems like a lot to me. I know mine looks nothing like that. 

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Awesome sauce. Let’s hope it’s just my clutch combined with low hours. At least this time the magnet was mostly bare and the screens mostly clean. The bike supposedly had less than 10 hours when I bought it. Hour meter on the bike said 2 hours but both numbers are hard to believe for a 3 year old bike. Well, maybe 2 year old. It could have been a leftover. Suspension was done in ‘16.

I’ve answered my own stator question. The internet says add load until voltage drops. That’s how you find out if your stator is up to the load. I found one on eBay that was stock but the seller wasn’t specific as to what year it came from. It does look different from mine though.

It’s probably time I try to get in touch with the po.

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That bike has way more than 10hrs, you can tell by all the wear in the leg area. If anything i bet it has 2-10 hours on a top end. Most people add a hour meter at top end builds if the bike didn't come with one

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That bike has way more than 10hrs, you can tell by all the wear in the leg area. If anything i bet it has 2-10 hours on a top end. Most people add a hour meter at top end builds if the bike didn't come with one

All the wear in the leg area? Do you mean the black plastic frame guard and the black kickstand? I added the kickstand. That’s just from the 13 hours I put on it.

You’re probably still right though. I don’t have a pic when new of the left side but the clutch cover is worn.
I snail mailed the po giving him my number. Hopefully he calls me. I couldn’t find him on the webs.
Bronzed filings from your lower end bushings.
 

So this is normal for newer bushings or this is I’m about to have to rebuild my engine kind of bad?

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Way more than 10 hours ,looks like 45 imo

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3 hours ago, Kallendbor said:


All the wear in the leg area? Do you mean the black plastic frame guard and the black kickstand? I added the kickstand. That’s just from the 13 hours I put on it.

You’re probably still right though. I don’t have a pic when new of the left side but the clutch cover is worn.
I snail mailed the po giving him my number. Hopefully he calls me. I couldn’t find him on the webs.
So this is normal for newer bushings or this is I’m about to have to rebuild my engine kind of bad?

NOT normal. You have a problem. Don't ride the bike till you fix it. 

It appears to be the crank having too much movement at the 'big' end. AKA, Big End bearings are toast. Crank must be rebuilt.

I agree, WAY more than 10 hours. It takes years for the gas to discolor the tank like that....and the wear marks on the bike say 50 hours....

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NOT normal. You have a problem. Don't ride the bike till you fix it. 
It appears to be the crank having too much movement at the 'big' end. AKA, Big End bearings are toast. Crank must be rebuilt.
I agree, WAY more than 10 hours. It takes years for the gas to discolor the tank like that....and the wear marks on the bike say 50 hours....

Ok. So tear off the top end and check for side to side and/or push pull play on the con-rod?

I would like to add that in person, the flakes looked silver. The pic is just warmer white balance than reality. Plus the oil was brownish, almost new brownish. That could be why the flakes look bronzish. Should I get the oil tested/analyzed? Is that worth doing?

I’d hate to tear into the bottom end now. I have two rides planned for the rest of this year. One next weekend and one 12/2. Having said that I also want to change the transmission to an exc gear set for 1st, 2nd gears and add the 6th. So December 3rd is when I can tear into the bottom end easily. It won’t go another 10 hours though will it?

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45 minutes ago, Kallendbor said:


Ok. So tear off the top end and check for side to side and/or push pull play on the con-rod?

I would like to add that in person, the flakes looked silver. The pic is just warmer white balance than reality. Plus the oil was brownish, almost new brownish. That could be why the flakes look bronzish. Should I get the oil tested/analyzed? Is that worth doing?

I’d hate to tear into the bottom end now. I have two rides planned for the rest of this year. One next weekend and one 12/2. Having said that I also want to change the transmission to an exc gear set for 1st, 2nd gears and add the 6th. So December 3rd is when I can tear into the bottom end easily. It won’t go another 10 hours though will it?

Silver flakes would not be your crank bushings.

Large amounts of Silver non-ferrous flakes/dust  are most commonly timing chain rub/slap against the cases from a worn out chain and tensioner.

Ferrous would be a gear or the shift drum flaking apart.

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That looks more like the Gold flake syndrome, seriously doubt it has anything to do with stator, which looks fine cosmetically.

Also try to capture some gold, and when cleaning the oil off see if still golden, it probably wont be

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That looks more like the Gold flake syndrome, seriously doubt it has anything to do with stator, which looks fine cosmetically.
Also try to capture some gold, and when cleaning the oil off see if still golden, it probably wont be

Oh, I wasn’t asking if my stator was ok or not. I was asking if anyone could tell by looking at it that it wasn’t stock and therefore was high output.

I’m not sure what the rest of your post means. What is gold flake syndrome? Capture some gold? Am I being pranked? :). I think some clarification is needed. :). I started this thread with two topics/questions. Probably a mistake on my part, but I didn’t want to clog the forum up.

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3 hours ago, Kallendbor said:


Oh, I wasn’t asking if my stator was ok or not. I was asking if anyone could tell by looking at it that it wasn’t stock and therefore was high output.

I’m not sure what the rest of your post means. What is gold flake syndrome? Capture some gold? Am I being pranked? :). I think some clarification is needed. :). I started this thread with two topics/questions. Probably a mistake on my part, but I didn’t want to clog the forum up.

Gothcha on the stator,   your oil looks full of Golden sparkles

Gold flake syndrome can be seen on ktm motors at times, Ive seen it on mine, especially when I cracked a piston crown(all the way through at 800 hours), and ran .25 quart low on oil before it shut down. I think its more aluminum, the oil tends to make it golden, till cleaned off, There are also Bronze colored bushings in the motor. Ive never actually figured out the Gold(mine cleaned up after oil change) the worst of gold sparkles Id ever seen on that motor), that's why I said capture some of it, clean it off and see if its still golden. Anyway, when I fully tear down my motor, I'll be looking for the gold supply distributor points. But I plan on going another few hundred hours first.

I have seen pictured a lower rod failure, that produced chunks of Gold, but I don't think that's the only source.

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No way I'd open that motor. If the screen and/or oil filter is clear, keep riding. 

I just pulled apart the filter and not a god damn flake to be found. The screens were relatively clean compared to the first time I did the oil. This all girls with what I’ve been reading about new ktms too. Lots of crap on the first change and decreasing crap thereafter.

I chatted with the po (who sold it to the dealer I bought it from) and he says he was told that the original owner rode it an hour before trading it in on a new one because traction control. And the 2nd owner slapped the hour meter on it and it was at 2.6. So if all this is to be believed, despite the run wear everywhere, then the bike was 3.5 hours old when I bought it, and at 14.1 hours now. I really need to get the valves checked in the next two days. I’m screwed if they are out of adjustment though. No time to get a shim kit.

I have pics from when it was bought the second time and the clutch cover wear is there then too.
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Change the oil and ride it. I have seen this from just the oil itself. Must be the additives in some brands. If it runs and sounds good and you feel the engine hours you were told are legit I would leave the valves alone for now.

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Change the oil and ride it. I have seen this from just the oil itself. Must be the additives in some brands. If it runs and sounds good and you feel the engine hours you were told are legit I would leave the valves alone for now.

Well, I need to check the clearance anyway. Supposed to happen at 10 hours. I’m past that.
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The first couple oil changes are give aways,

Shim under bucket shims generally don't wear, but the ktm motor is not shim under bucket, the shims receive direct contact scrubbing. The rocker arms have a diamond like coating, so you can have shim wear rocker arm wear and rocker shaft wear, all of which opens the gap more.

Where normally shim under bucket design only tightens from valve face wear.

I'm stick to new oem shims, its actually cheaper than buying a cheap Chinese shim kit.

but the first valve check, remove the rocker arms and measure each shim so you know whats in there, for later down the road., when you check the feeler gauge.

Also you'll hear people filing shims, that's a quaick way to destroy the DLC coating, with any slight imperfection on a shim.

 

 

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