Remove cam chain tensioner for valve adjustment

[JN89]

I didn't do my first valve check after 1 hr as the manual asks for.

Checked for first time at 44 hrs and was really hoping I'd still be in spec but looks like I need to order a shim kit.

I'm measuring:

LE: .12

RE: .12

LI: .09

RI: .12

Manual calls for:

Exhaust: .13 - .18

Intake:  .10 - .15

 

So looks like I need to adjust.

Looking over procedure - I'm a bit confused at this part (see attached).  I got cone wrench in there to remove timing chain tensioner but cannot remove it completely cause frame is in the way. any tips?

 

Edited October 26, 2018 by JN89

[motomanimit]

I didn't do my first valve check after 1 hr as the manual asks for.

Checked for first time at 44 hrs and was really hoping I'd still be in spec but looks like I need to order a shim kit.
I'm measuring:
LE: .12
RE: .12
LI: .09
RI: .12
Manual calls for:
Exhaust: .13 - .18
Intake:  .10 - .15
 
So looks like I need to adjust.
Looking over procedure - I'm a bit confused at this part (see attached).  I got cone wrench in there to remove timing chain tensioner but cannot remove it completely cause frame is in the way. any tips?
 

Pull the clip on the rocker arms and slide it over to adjust valve

[57Thorny]

The cam chain adjuster was difficult to remove on my '15 Husky FE 350, for the valve adjustment.  I took off the right side radiator and hoses, then the adjuster cover, then the adjuster could be pulled out

 

[Mattw795]

I just did this last night, take out the screw on the front side cam chain tensioner, loosen adjuster till it hits the frame, use a magnetic finger to grab the "plunger" from inside the head (as in looking straight down where the cams would be, they need to be removed to adjust valves anyway) the plunger will remain inside the bike and the threaded part will have enough clearance to get around the frame. then use the magnetic finger to pull the plunger part out the same way the threaded bolt came out. make sure you follow the instructions for re installation. the threaded part your putting a wrench on to loosen and the actually plunger are two pieces, it feels like they aren't due to the oil creating stiction inside the part, but don't worry it will come apart. 

and to clarify, you don't need top pull the plunger till it falls inside the head, just pull it in enough to get the bolt out.