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Water pump play

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Replaced the clutch on my 2008 crf450r, i stalled new crank case gasket and water pump o-ring, put the bike back together and after a few minutes of riding, my gear case oil was milky. So I’m leaking coolant into my case. I took the crank case cover off again and looked at my water pump impeller and noticed it had a lot of play pushing it in and out. Is this normal? I attached a video. Also, why am I leaking coolant into the gear box? I replaced the o-ring that goes around the water pump collar 

 

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Does it have any up & down movement. That's the issue. You probably need to replace the seals, bearing and check the condition of the impeller.

Also check for any up & down play in your balancer. Good thread on rebuilding the water pump:

https://www.crfsonly.com/howto/450r/water-pump/honda-crf450r-water-pump-rebuild.php

 

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18 minutes ago, HRC27 said:

Does it have any up & down movement. That's the issue. You probably need to replace the seals, bearing and check the condition of the impeller.

Also check for any up & down play in your balancer. Good thread on rebuilding the water pump:

https://www.crfsonly.com/howto/450r/water-pump/honda-crf450r-water-pump-rebuild.php

 

It doesn’t have any up and down play, just the in and out play

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I replaced the water pump on my 05 250R a few years ago (IMO basically the same) and don't remember that much play but did you replace all the seals and bearing and installed them all correctly?

Number 8 is the oil seal

Number 5 and 9 are the water pump seal's.

OEM for your bike and hope this helps?

Clipboard01.jpg.bcf58cbb5600ecbe52809325a2c8886a.jpg

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7 minutes ago, filterx said:

I replaced the water pump on my 05 250R a few years ago (IMO basically the same) and don't remember that much play but did you replace all the seals and bearing and installed them all correctly?

Number 8 is the oil seal

Number 5 and 9 are the water pump seal's.

OEM for your bike and hope this helps?

Clipboard01.jpg.bcf58cbb5600ecbe52809325a2c8886a.jpg

I haven’t rebuilt my water pump yet, I was wondering if this “play” means it’s time for a rebuild 

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Were you getting milky tranny oil before your clutch rebuild and are you asking about a coolant leak?

Otherwise good to hear you checked your tranny oil after the new clutch and IMO once you have the right outer case off on a 10 year old bike, I would do a water pump rebuild for prevent maintenance cus its cheap and easy

 

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14 minutes ago, filterx said:

Were you getting milky tranny oil before your clutch rebuild and are you asking about a coolant leak?

Otherwise good to hear you checked your tranny oil after the new clutch and IMO once you have the right outer case off on a 10 year old bike, I would do a water pump rebuild for prevent maintenance cus its cheap and easy

 

No milky oil before the clutch rebuild, yeah I’m leaking coolant into my gear case somewhere. I might as well just rebuild the water pump while the case is off. Where’s the best place to get the rebuild kit?

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12 minutes ago, Charecter1 said:

No milky oil before the clutch rebuild, yeah I’m leaking coolant into my gear case somewhere. I might as well just rebuild the water pump while the case is off. Where’s the best place to get the rebuild kit?

RMATV, OEM parts for your bike.

are you also 100% sure your getting a coolant leak (milky) and the tranny oil is not just greyish?

Also I'm guessing on all of this but did you make sure you also got the old right outer case gasket off and got the new gasket on correctly?

 

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28 minutes ago, filterx said:

RMATV, OEM parts for your bike.

are you also 100% sure your getting a coolant leak (milky) and the tranny oil is not just greyish?

Also I'm guessing on all of this but did you make sure you also got the old right outer case gasket off and got the new gasket on correctly?

 

Yeah I’m 100% sure it’s milky and not just grey. I replaced the oil after replacing the clutch. It came out looking like a milkshake. 

Yeah I made sure to get all of the old gasket off of the cover before installing the new gasket 

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I THINK the only way rad fluid can get into the tranny case is through part number 9 BUT there might be another way and as I post, I don't THINK there should be that much play though may b mistaken with both and hopefully someone else will tell you exactly.

Sorry that I can't and I'm going back to drinking beers and watching NCAA ball :)

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26 minutes ago, filterx said:

I THINK the only way rad fluid can get into the tranny case is through part number 9 BUT there might be another way and as I post, I don't THINK there should be that much play though may b mistaken with both and hopefully someone else will tell you exactly.

Sorry that I can't and I'm going back to drinking beers and watching NCAA ball :)

No worries, I appreciate the help, I just ordered a rebuild kit anyways because it’s not expensive and my local shop was running a discount on engine ice with the purchase👌🏼

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1 hour ago, Charecter1 said:

No worries, I appreciate the help, I just ordered a rebuild kit anyways because it’s not expensive and my local shop was running a discount on engine ice with the purchase👌🏼

BE SURE to install the seals in the correct direction or they will leak. Look at the post above that shows the direction they have to be installed in. Also, rub a really thin layer of grease in the seals so that when you first fire the bike and the seals are dry they will not be compromised by the dry shaft.

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The bearing is toast. The inner seal goes flat side out, the water part of the seal goes flat side in. Now, it should have spewed water out of the weep hole before spooging the gear case. So, clear that hole, replace the seals and the bearing and it should be fine. That play back and forth is exaggerated because the water pump shaft would bottom (or come very close) to the idler shaft that drives it, so your run out demonstration isnt really valid.

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