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TigerTanker

South Puget Sound winter men’s club: Wednesday riding

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I have a 2018 FX350...... I'm thinking of going back to a 300...... Not sure which model yet....

You should ride my 2019 TE 300i to put your mind at ease. PM me. There is no substitute for a test ride.
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2 hours ago, Anatoli said:


You should ride my 2019 TE 300i to put your mind at ease. PM me. There is no substitute for a test ride.

I have ridden one already, hence why I'm thinking of going back to a 2 stroke. ;)

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17 hours ago, ride200mi said:

I have a 2018 FX350...... I'm thinking of going back to a 300...... Not sure which model yet....

What don’t you like about 350?

that 350 is a pretty darn nice bike for mtn st btw...

Edited by TigerTanker
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Only about 4 lbs difference between 2019 FE350 and FE450. A dyno chart would be telling, but I would guess the 350 makes less torque down low and needs to be revved higher. I would LOVE to test ride 250, 350, and 450 back to back.

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7 minutes ago, HHey said:

Only about 4 lbs difference between 2019 FE350 and FE450. A dyno chart would be telling, but I would guess the 350 makes less torque down low and needs to be revved higher. I would LOVE to test ride 250, 350, and 450 back to back.

FEs and FX and the 300s.  

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9 hours ago, TigerTanker said:

What don’t you like about 350?

that 350 is a pretty darn nice bike for mtn st btw...

Make no mistake I do like the 350. It is a VERY capable ST bike. So you ask what I don't like; well it is tricky for me to keep it from stalling when I get in the tough stuff. Even though I have a Rekluse, the clutch pull is fairly hard. And tends to give me arm pump sometimes. Some of the vids you are posting I haven't really tried on the 350 and I might be selling it all short but, while I lived in AZ the 300 was a handful in the desert sand. I did a couple of classes with Destry Abbott and everyone was on a 4T. Said they are easier to get through the desert. Which it is for the most part. Fast forward, and now living here in some very cool forest riding, it just seems the 2T would be a little less to muscle around. And the fact that most of the ST trails I've been on are pretty tight going, bar lock to bar lock, to get through the trails. The 300 tends to less of a handful. The 350 feels way lighter but on the 300, I like how the power can be controlled a little better. I really think if I want to get more experience in the PNW trails and how most are fairly tight (compared to AZ) I'm going to want to ride something a little easier to get up steep terrain and step ups. Does this make any sense?  LOL

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Only about 4 lbs difference between 2019 FE350 and FE450. A dyno chart would be telling, but I would guess the 350 makes less torque down low and needs to be revved higher. I would LOVE to test ride 250, 350, and 450 back to back.

James Dean has charts posted of both models on ktmtalk - stock and uncorked.

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2 hours ago, ride200mi said:

Make no mistake I do like the 350. It is a VERY capable ST bike. So you ask what I don't like; well it is tricky for me to keep it from stalling when I get in the tough stuff. Even though I have a Rekluse, the clutch pull is fairly hard. And tends to give me arm pump sometimes. Some of the vids you are posting I haven't really tried on the 350 and I might be selling it all short but, while I lived in AZ the 300 was a handful in the desert sand. I did a couple of classes with Destry Abbott and everyone was on a 4T. Said they are easier to get through the desert. Which it is for the most part. Fast forward, and now living here in some very cool forest riding, it just seems the 2T would be a little less to muscle around. And the fact that most of the ST trails I've been on are pretty tight going, bar lock to bar lock, to get through the trails. The 300 tends to less of a handful. The 350 feels way lighter but on the 300, I like how the power can be controlled a little better. I really think if I want to get more experience in the PNW trails and how most are fairly tight (compared to AZ) I'm going to want to ride something a little easier to get up steep terrain and step ups. Does this make any sense?  LOL

You need to tune the 350 better. They all come set up for flame outs at 7 mph. 

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1 hour ago, TigerTanker said:

You need to tune the 350 better. They all come set up for flame outs at 7 mph. 

Maybe you can enlighten me as too what you think I need to do.

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1 hour ago, ride200mi said:

Maybe you can enlighten me as too what you think I need to do.

Turn up the idle speed.

Plus PM @Pitbull and ask him about it he went through this with his 350.

Edited by KaToomTime
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The tps sensor on my 4 strokes needed to be raised from stock .58 to .67-.69

before changing to euro map and raising the tps, both the 350 and 450 ran embarrassingly bad

the idle is a band aid and raising it will not save that irritating and dangerous condition

i hear that raising the tps on 17 and newer bikes is harder but can be done with a cheap mod. @dan500afc is my mechanic and will do my new bike

 

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23 hours ago, KaToomTime said:

Turn up the idle speed.

Plus PM @Pitbull and ask him about it he went through this with his 350.

So just to enlighten you all, I have talked and had prior experience with many 4T, even in today's EPA ruled bikes. The 350 is nothing new when it comes to figuring out how to keep it from stalling. That being said, here is what has dramatically helped in keeping the engine from staling. First thing anyone should do is checking to see if the TPI is set correctly; it is. I have installed a FMF spark arrestor and this in it's self made the engine leaner. And despite someone mentioning FMF has a map for this..?? It didn't help or make any change, a waste of time IMHO. So saying that, I researched what will help with the "lean" condition. I found most, if not all, aftermarket builders/shops recommended a JT Tuning in line FI tuner. It works. You can make adjustments in any part of the RPM range to richen or lean fuel flow. I have also gone to a mixture of race gas (VP12) and premium pump gas (2 gal pump to 1 gal VP). This helps also. With the specific gravity being a little better (VP) for lean engines, I had to lean it FI at mid RPM's. Now to the controversial part, I bought a couple of mods from our friend at KTM/Husky, Best Dual Sport Dirt Bikes. A Alu FI inlet manifold, a better flowing fuel filter and the exhaust outlet manifold. The biggest improvement came from the FI manifold and the fuel filter. The exh manifold, maybe but the engine showed the best result from the other two. The bike works way better. And I almost forgot to mention I have a Rekluse clutch. To say "turn up the idle speed" is not what it needs. It needed better fueling at idle. All turning the idle speed up is engage the Rekluse and then the bike wants to move/creep. And if you are in a event that requires a dead engine start, you will have to use the clutch to get it stated and down the course. To me then, there is no use for a auto clutch. This brings me to the last mod that has been recommended to me by the reputable people I have talked to. Putting a crankshaft weight on. I am still working on what I have so far and it is a massive improvement from what I started with. The reason I mentioned I want a 2T 300 is due to the terrain here in WA. If you have seen any Hard Enduro races this is the bike of choice, for a reason. In AZ the bike of choice is a 4T.... Because of the open terrain and fast courses. I originally bought my 15 300 because the terrain where I lived in CA was mountains and forrest trails. It worked. Moved to AZ and it still worked pretty good but I struggled in the deep sand with it. The 4T's made the sand way easier. So there are reasons for choosing a 4T or a 2T. Just saying.... And I'm sorry for the hijack here but.....

Edited by ride200mi
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3 minutes ago, ride200mi said:

So just to enlighten you all, I have talked and had prior experience with many 4T, even in today's EPA ruled bikes. The 350 is nothing new when it comes to figuring out how to keep it from staling. That being said, here is what has dramatically helped in keeping the engine from staling. First thing anyone should do is checking to see if the TPI is set correctly; it is. I have installed a FMF spark arrestor and this in it's self made the engine leaner. And despite someone mentioning FMF has a map for this..?? It didn't help or make any change, a waste of time IMHO. So saying that, I researched what will help with the "lean" condition. I found most, if not all, aftermarket builders/shops recommended a JT Tuning in line FI tuner. It works. You can make adjustments in any part of the RPM range to richen or lean fuel flow. I have also gone to a mixture of race gas (VP12) and premium pump gas (2 gal pump to 1 gal VP). This helps also. With the specific gravity being a little better (VP) for lean engines, I had to lean it FI at mid RPM's. Now to the controversial part, I bought a couple of mods from our friend at KTM/Husky, Best Dual Sport Dirt Bikes. A Alu FI inlet manifold, a better flowing fuel filter and the exhaust outlet manifold. The biggest improvement came from the FI manifold and the fuel filter. The exh manifold, maybe but the engine showed the best result from the other two. The bike works way better. And I almost forgot to mention I have a Rekluse clutch. To say "turn up the idle speed" is not what it needs. It needed better fueling at idle. All turning the idle speed up is engage the Rekluse and then the bike wants to move/creep. And if you are in a event that requires a dead engine start, you will have to use the clutch to get it stated and down the course. To me then, there is no use for a auto clutch. This brings me to the last mod that has been recommended to me by the reputable people I have talked to. Putting a crankshaft weight on. I am still working on what I have so far and it is a far cry from what I started with. The reason I mentioned I want a 2T 300 is due to the terrain here in WA. If you have seen any Hard Enduro races this is the bike of choice, for a reason. In AZ the bike of choice is a 4T.... Because of the open terrain and fast courses. I originally bought my 15 300 because the terrain where I lived in CA was mountains and forrest trails. It worked. Moved to AZ and it stilled worked pretty good but I struggled in the deep sand with it. The 4T's made the sand way easier. So there are reasons for choosing a 4T or a 2T. Just saying.... And I'm sorry for the hijack here but.....

Well shit, you should have just said that it's not the bike then. Here we all thought we were helping thinking you hadn't thrown a thousand or two at "the problem". Turning up the idle a bit was all I needed. If I stall it now it's cause I am not riding it the right way. 

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I’ve heard that tuning 17 and newer was harder than on the 14-16 models. Once my adjustments were made, my bikes lived happily ever after with zero issues  

Sounds like you’ve tried a bunch of stuff. Did you raise the tps?

i do recall a thread a while back explaining that high performance gasoline can create a new cycle of events. 

 

Edited by TigerTanker

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17 minutes ago, TigerTanker said:

I’ve heard that tuning 17 and newer was harder than on the 14-16 models. 

Sounds like you’ve tried a bunch of stuff. Did you raise the tps?

i do recall a thread a while back explaining that high performance gasoline can create a new cycle of events. 

 

Yes to the TPS, Husky has a new set for the 350, I want to say .65-.69. It was in a service bulletin. The race gas can be an issue if you don't understand what type of gas will help or hinder. A talk to a VP rep helps tremendously. As to Kattoomtime's other post, I could have said it's not the bike, but most just think you are not doing anything but complaining. I wanted to mention what I have done so others might gain something if one is having the same issues. As I mentioned, it is a very good bike, it can be a handful on some of the more difficult trails compared to a 2T was my main point. 

Edited by ride200mi

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46 minutes ago, ride200mi said:

So just to enlighten you all, I have talked and had prior experience with many 4T, even in today's EPA ruled bikes. The 350 is nothing new when it comes to figuring out how to keep it from stalling. That being said, here is what has dramatically helped in keeping the engine from staling. First thing anyone should do is checking to see if the TPI is set correctly; it is. I have installed a FMF spark arrestor and this in it's self made the engine leaner. And despite someone mentioning FMF has a map for this..?? It didn't help or make any change, a waste of time IMHO. So saying that, I researched what will help with the "lean" condition. I found most, if not all, aftermarket builders/shops recommended a JT Tuning in line FI tuner. It works. You can make adjustments in any part of the RPM range to richen or lean fuel flow. I have also gone to a mixture of race gas (VP12) and premium pump gas (2 gal pump to 1 gal VP). This helps also. With the specific gravity being a little better (VP) for lean engines, I had to lean it FI at mid RPM's. Now to the controversial part, I bought a couple of mods from our friend at KTM/Husky, Best Dual Sport Dirt Bikes. A Alu FI inlet manifold, a better flowing fuel filter and the exhaust outlet manifold. The biggest improvement came from the FI manifold and the fuel filter. The exh manifold, maybe but the engine showed the best result from the other two. The bike works way better. And I almost forgot to mention I have a Rekluse clutch. To say "turn up the idle speed" is not what it needs. It needed better fueling at idle. All turning the idle speed up is engage the Rekluse and then the bike wants to move/creep. And if you are in a event that requires a dead engine start, you will have to use the clutch to get it stated and down the course. To me then, there is no use for a auto clutch. This brings me to the last mod that has been recommended to me by the reputable people I have talked to. Putting a crankshaft weight on. I am still working on what I have so far and it is a far cry from what I started with. The reason I mentioned I want a 2T 300 is due to the terrain here in WA. If you have seen any Hard Enduro races this is the bike of choice, for a reason. In AZ the bike of choice is a 4T.... Because of the open terrain and fast courses. I originally bought my 15 300 because the terrain where I lived in CA was mountains and forrest trails. It worked. Moved to AZ and it still worked pretty good but I struggled in the deep sand with it. The 4T's made the sand way easier. So there are reasons for choosing a 4T or a 2T. Just saying.... And I'm sorry for the hijack here but.....

Carbureted two stroke, manual clutch, 50:1, ethanol free pump gas, just saying. :busted:

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2 hours ago, shrubitup said:

Carbureted two stroke, manual clutch, 50:1, ethanol free pump gas, just saying. :busted:

Yes sir!!! However, I'm getting lazy in my old age. I want a FI 300!

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