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Enclosed Trailer Anchor Install

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I just picked up a 6x12 pace trailer with no anchor points in it. Thinking I just want a couple non recessed d rings. Floor is 3/4 plywood, do the d ring bolts need to go through the crossmembers? They are tubular no idea what to do here any help is greatly appreciated.

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I just picked up a 6x12 pace trailer with no anchor points in it. Thinking I just want a couple non recessed d rings. Floor is 3/4 plywood, do the d ring bolts need to go through the crossmembers? They are tubular no idea what to do here any help is greatly appreciated.

Mine came with,they had plate welded to cross members. For things I've added, I used fender washers, plate with holes to match bolt patterns. Just into existing plywood floor. I would not drill into cross members. Even adding another piece of plywood to bolt through would be good.
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You won't create any problems drilling into cross members. That stuff should be a heavy gauge steel. I used these to put d-rings down in my trailer. Where there was no cross members I used 3/16" thick plates, drilled to match the d-rings. I used these screws throughout and haven't lost anything in my 6x12 or my weekend Warrior.

https://www.jakesales.com/Reamer-Tek-Wood-to-Metal-Screws-Tek-Screws-p/self-drilling-reamer-tek.htm?1=1&CartID=0

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Do not drill through metal cross members. First off I would get a front wheel holding devise, there's all kinds on the market. Locate the place you wish to mount the front wheel holding devise, mark the mounting holes and drill the correct size for your bolts, go underneath trailer floor and mount a piece of 3/4" plywood about 12" square at each hole. Get the correct size bolts and length plus 2 fender washers and 2 lock nuts and mount. You then determine how you want to place your hold down straps, their sole purpose is the keep bike from rocking beck and forth, left to right which would put wear on the front wheel bearings. Me I have 2 tie down straps that go on each foot rest and are anchored to the floor and connected to eye bolts with the same method as the front wheel holding devise. This method will not keep your front fork springs in a compressed state while traveling, plus the bike for sure doesn't move at all. To each his own? 

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Thanks for the help guys. The trailer did come with e track not installed, the reason I dont want to use it is it says to drill in to each crossmember the e track crosses. I live in canada and drilling in the frame is just creating another spot for moisture and rust to form.

 

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Exactly, why I said not too! Im in Michigan. Mines all aluminum, but will corrode from salt. I've insulated underneath, with ridged insulation. Sealed it with UGL drylock water seal paint.
If your interested in conversions check out TnTTT cargo trailer threads. Lots of CTC's set up for Toy haulers.
Here's mine
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=http%3A%2F%2Ftnttt%2Ecom%2Fviewtopic%2Ephp%3Ft%3D62418&share_tid=62418&share_fid=39727&share_type=t

Its sort of mine!

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Damn thats nice, did you use treated 1’x1’ plywood on underside of anchors, or just regular spruce? I think I may still go with the 1/8 thick x 2” wide x 4” long steel underneath, i think it will be plenty strong with less area to hold moisture between the layers. Maybe im over thinking it??

 

 

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Damn thats nice, did you use treated 1’x1’ plywood on underside of anchors, or just regular spruce? I think I may still go with the 1/8 thick x 2” wide x 4” long steel underneath, i think it will be plenty strong with less area to hold moisture between the layers. Maybe im over thinking it??
 
 
My main tie downs came with trailer, I was mounting other things. I used different methods based on strength needed. Mostly mine are fender washers.
I was doing my conversion when I was struggling to function, and wake up alive each morning. So somethings I've forgotten. Somethings, I now could do better. I look at it and I'm amazed at what I did when I was so bad off. Then I see something, I did that was stupid. I wonder, what I possibly could have been thinking. It's good for a laugh.
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In your opinion/ experience, do you think using the flat bar instead of 1x1 plywood would suffice?
Yes.
Oh, I do know I used a deck waterproofing waterseal in and around all the holes I drilled. And sealed everything I could with a sealant. I don't like silicone so I used Lexel sealant.
http://www.sashco.com/products/lexel/
Silicone will not seal to itself. Many don't realize this and apply it over old. Just creating more issues
I'd paint the steal after drilling holes and use anti seize on the bolts.
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Well after all that, and actually getting under the trailer and looking turns out it is a z channel frame. So since I am not screwing in to a tube crossmember I am going to use the e track and attach to the crossmembers and use a sealant at each hole

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In my trailer I used these on the floor, and 2 strips of e-track down the sides.  Those rings are beefy and fold down flat.  I used these for the front bike wheels (offset them front-to-back to fit bikes closer together), and they come out for when you want to use the trailer for something else.  For the floor I used rubber diamond plate. 

Edited by sirthumpalot
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I have 2 serious chocks on the floor or my trailer, they have tie down tie points on them.

I mounted them with these: https://www.amazon.ca/Z-Lok-Threaded-Hex-Flanged-Internal/dp/B002711TWS/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1543010154&sr=1-2&keywords=E-Z+lok+wood

as I take the chocks in and out for sledding season. Jamming myself under the trailer at the WORST time of  year,  twice a year while I yell at my helper just isn't fun.

 

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Etrailer.com has removable wheel chock for cycles.  I put one in my sprinter van bike hauler.  Take 2 wing bolts out and its out and wont get in way of any cargo.  They sell backer plates for tie down d rings as well.  I wouldnt mess with tryin to drill into a tubular trailer frame crossmember.  

Back in the 90s, we put a rubber or vinyl floor tiles as flooring for a highpoint trailer floor.  It was on top of plywood.  Then the d rings went in after.  Steel backer plates went on underside of ply.  You could hose it out occasionally which worked well.

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I know you want to mount D rings but i use this set up and it beats them all just my two cents(no climbing around tie downs and chocks) 

56012753215__E4ADBE0F-9DD1-4D31-A249-A6FBEA28D319.JPG

IMG_7209.JPG

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Definitely use anti-seize on the bolts. I put d-rings just like the ones you have pictured on my trailer last summer, 5/8” bolts with washers just through the 3/4” plywood. Worked fine for a dirt bike but I wanted to take them off and move them this summer. Ended up breaking half of the bolts they were so rusted. I didn’t even use the trailer in the salt of winter.

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7 hours ago, olddude13 said:

I know you want to mount D rings but i use this set up and it beats them all just my two cents(no climbing around tie downs and chocks) 

56012753215__E4ADBE0F-9DD1-4D31-A249-A6FBEA28D319.JPG

IMG_7209.JPG

who sells these tie downs ? Those look simple and quick.

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8 hours ago, olddude13 said:

I know you want to mount D rings but i use this set up and it beats them all just my two cents(no climbing around tie downs and chocks) 

56012753215__E4ADBE0F-9DD1-4D31-A249-A6FBEA28D319.JPG

IMG_7209.JPG

Do you have any problems with the bike trying to roll forward or backward with your tie down setup? Where did you get these tie downs?

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