Jump to content
EPrice26

Cooling Problem

Recommended Posts

Is the fuel screw set about 1-3/4 to 2 turns out?

 

Sounds like your pilot jet and/or it's passageway above it are blocked.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Is the fuel screw set about 1-3/4 to 2 turns out?
 
Sounds like your pilot jet and/or it's passageway above it are blocked.

It was not it was about 3 turns out I’d say

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

3 turns out would initially point to a too small pilot jet but,

if the jet is of the recommended size, I rather suspect the jet/passageway is blocked and the fuel screw was set there to compensate.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 turns out would initially point to a too small pilot jet but,
if the jet is of the recommended size, I rather suspect the jet/passageway is blocked and the fuel screw was set there to compensate.
 

I set it to 1-3/4 turns out. Try it out and see how it runs?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep set it a 1-3/4 and give it a try,

 

Once the choke is off and the engine won't idle / stalls,  

does it puff some black smoke or smell flooded (gas) ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Yep set it a 1-3/4 and give it a try,
 
Once the choke is off and the engine won't idle / stalls,  
does it puff some black smoke or smell flooded (gas) ?

I don’t see any black smoke or smell gas.
1 - 3/4 turns didn’t work out so I went a tiny bit past 2. And I turned idle down real low. Throttle was responsive like it should be and the header didn’t glow red like it usually does. But the right side radiator did smoke quite a bit.. it’s been doing this for some time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like your settings were too rich rather than too lean,

though still worth checking the pilot jet for blockage when you have a chance.

 

If the radiator 'smokes' externally, perhaps it has a pin hole or crack in it somewhere?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sounds like your settings were too rich rather than too lean,
though still worth checking the pilot jet for blockage when you have a chance.
 
If the radiator 'smokes' externally, perhaps it has a pin hole or crack in it somewhere?

I thought it was lean due to the hanging idle, hesitant response to the throttle and the header glowing cherry red. Maybe I’m wrong?
I will clean the jets out as well.
How would I check for pin holes or cracks in the radiator?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ideally with a cooling system pressure tester, 

you can build up to normal operating pressure (say 1.1 bar / 16psi)

and leave it pressurized until you see where it leaks from.

 

If you bring it to a radiator shop (just the rad) they'll likely be able to find the leak a fix it.

Edited by mlatour

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ideally with a cooling system pressure tester, 
you can build up to normal operating pressure (say 1.1 bar / 16psi)
and leave it pressurized until you see where it leaks from.
 
If you bring it to a radiator shop (just the rad) they'll likely be able to find the leak a fix it.

Alright, I’ll look into one. So the settings on the bike sound alright? Just clean the carb?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think 1-3/4 to 2 turns out is the baseline for most Keihin FCR carbs.

any less/more can dictate the need for a smaller/larger pilot jet.

 

Taking into consideration it's a 2008, if the carb has never been refurbished,

there might be some wear items contributing to change the metering and alter driveability.

Fuel screw o-ring, emulsion tube, vacuum plate seal to name a few.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I think 1-3/4 to 2 turns out is the baseline for most Keihin FCR carbs.
any less/more can dictate the need for a smaller/larger pilot jet.
 
Taking into consideration it's a 2008, if the carb has never been refurbished,
there might be some wear items contributing to change the metering and alter driveability.
Fuel screw o-ring, emulsion tube, vacuum plate seal to name a few.

Took it out for a spin. Ran pretty good. Everything sounded fine so I’m just going to leave it how it is for now. I’ll still clean the carb and pressure test the radiator and call it a success for now. I will let you know if something else comes up with it. I appreciate all the time you’ve spent dealing with this problem child :b . Thanks for the advice as well.
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I think 1-3/4 to 2 turns out is the baseline for most Keihin FCR carbs.
any less/more can dictate the need for a smaller/larger pilot jet.
 
Taking into consideration it's a 2008, if the carb has never been refurbished,
there might be some wear items contributing to change the metering and alter driveability.
Fuel screw o-ring, emulsion tube, vacuum plate seal to name a few.

Okay so I got the pressure tester, and couldn’t get the thing to spring a leak... so now what? I don’t know.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not so much observing a leak but with the system pressurized, there was no drop in pressure at all on the tool's gauge?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Not so much observing a leak but with the system pressurized, there was no drop in pressure at all on the tool's gauge?

Oh oh there definitely was.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well that's the point of the pressure test, it must hold pressure without any drop for at least a few minutes

(small leaks in the tester is usually the reason for the eventual drop in pressure)

 

If the pressure drops rather quickly, you must find where it's escaping from.

Keep in mind leaks can be internal as well: head gasket, water pump seal, pin hole in casting etc.

 

 

Edited by mlatour

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


×