Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Loose bolts.

Recommended Posts

Selling my husky 310 and really wanting a 300rr re. I go to ncmp to ride today and one of the guys that race in our hare scramble series has a 18 re. I ask a few questions about it and ask about the problems that he had since he bought it. The main thing was the engine mount bolts would loosen.  Any one else have loosened bolts? I've never had a 2 stroke, but it will be my next bike.  Thanks for the replies. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've heard of that happening but have always assumed that's a basic new bike preventative maintenance activity, kind of like greasing the steering head, swingarm, and shock linkage bearings. 

This is on the first page of the owner's manual for the bike you mention:

IMPORTANT
We recommend you to check all the tightenings after the first one
or two hours’ ride over rough ground. Special attention should
be paid to the following parts:
• rear sprocket
• ensure that the footrests are properly fixed
• front/rear brake levers/calipers/discs
• check that the plastics are properly fastened
• engine bolts
• shock absorber bolts/swingarm
• wheel hubs/spokes
• rear frame
• pipe connections
• tensioning the chain

I followed that recommendation on my 2016 300 and haven't had any problems with loose bolts in 200+ hours of riding, including a top end rebuild that required removing and reinstalling the engine mount bolts.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
23 minutes ago, wwguy said:

I've heard of that happening but have always assumed that's a basic new bike preventative maintenance activity, kind of like greasing the steering head, swingarm, and shock linkage bearings. 

This is on the first page of the owner's manual for the bike you mention:

IMPORTANT
We recommend you to check all the tightenings after the first one
or two hours’ ride over rough ground. Special attention should
be paid to the following parts:
• rear sprocket
• ensure that the footrests are properly fixed
• front/rear brake levers/calipers/discs
• check that the plastics are properly fastened
• engine bolts
• shock absorber bolts/swingarm
• wheel hubs/spokes
• rear frame
• pipe connections
• tensioning the chain

I followed that recommendation on my 2016 300 and haven't had any problems with loose bolts in 200+ hours of riding, including a top end rebuild that required removing and reinstalling the engine mount bolts.

He stated that he's had to retighten multiple times.  That's why I was asking in the beta forum. I always wash my bike before I ride again just to make sure I can see and check things before the next ride.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
26 minutes ago, LSHD said:

Did he properly torque it? That's the first course of action to prevent loosening, and very effective. Next step is blue Loctite like KRAYNIAL says.

Didn't ask that. The guy with him said he even put a lock nut on it. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The other day my engine mount bolts came lose on my 2005 KTM 300EXC. It happens. Torqued it when I got home and they aren't moving now.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine have come loose a few times on my 2013 250. But it is part of the ritual.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/25/2018 at 6:28 PM, KRAYNIAL said:

Same for all two strokes.

Some where on the bike there will be cronic bolt loosening.

That is what  wave washers and blue locktite are for.

😏

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Weird. I'm always checking bolts, but I've yet to have a single one come loose.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Same here, I'm on my 4th 250, I check them but have never had a loose one. The side stand bolt seems to come loose on any bike I own, lock tite or not. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I second, third and fourth using Blue Threadlocker (medium strength).

Another trick that may work if clearance allows is to install a longer bolt, and use a nylock nut (has a nylon interference fit insert). Those things do not loosen, they are better than thread locker, but only if you can get a nut on the end of a bolt.

nylon nut.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some of you have loose bolts between your ears. Anything that you beat the F out of is going to break or loosen at some point. That is why preventive maintenance should be a part of your riding week.  

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

2 smoke riders need to check their cylinder and head nut torques more than 4T guys as well. They're just more vibey. Unless you have a fancy counterbalancer.

  • Like 1
  • Confused 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, HansLanda said:

2 smoke riders need to check their cylinder and head nut torques more than 4T guys as well. They're just more vibey. Unless you have a fancy counterbalancer.

I've never had to (or felt the need to ) retorque the nuts on my cylinder heads.

Chassis bolts on the other hand......

Edited by ss-racing

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I've never had to (or felt the need to ) retorque the nuts on my cylinder heads.

Chassis bolts on the other hand......

Maybe I missed the memo. I found that instruction somewhere when I did my top end rebuild, and just kept checking they're snug every now and then. My torque wrench wouldn't fit to be used on all the cylinder nuts, so I tried to match them all by hand as best I could.

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If the only issue is loose motor mount bolts then it’s doing good. 

As others said that kind of stuff should be checked all the time. Try keeping up with a pro rider, our maintenance schedule is way higher than what people talk about on here. Bolts get tightened almost every ride. 

  • Helpful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/25/2018 at 7:11 PM, Edgecombe said:

Didn't ask that. The guy with him said he even put a lock nut on it. 

My DRZ has a shoulder bolt with a locking nut two places on the rear fender/subframe interface. One of them, the side opposite the exhaust, seems to vibrate loose. Go figure! I used Loctite 222 (low strength)  on it.

I've lost one of the M4 screws that holds on the switchgear and the M6 and washer that holds the front fender to the black doubler on my 300RE.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, HansLanda said:

Maybe I missed the memo. I found that instruction somewhere when I did my top end rebuild, and just kept checking they're snug every now and then. My torque wrench wouldn't fit to be used on all the cylinder nuts, so I tried to match them all by hand as best I could.

Use a fish scale and box wrench on those hard to reach bolts and fasteners.

  • Helpful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...