Jump to content

Brand New KLX450 advice

Recommended Posts

Hey all, can anyone help with some tips on modern 450 engine maintenence. First time 450-4T owner.

Picked new bike up on Sat from dealer, rode 10 miles at moderate revs  and changed oil.

thx for any feedback.

 

 

IMG_0867.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They are jetted quite lean so re jetting is a must,also stock exhaust gets in the way of the oil filter cover not to mention being very heavy and restrictive,if you are on a budget keep an eye out for a second hand KX450F exhaust,its a straight bolt on fit but only from the 06-08 model KX.otherwise get an after market exhaust,some after market KLX exhausts still retain the longer header pipe that still gets in the way,so either get the FMF power/mega bomb which won't or aftermarket 06-08 KXF fitment.the exhaust and re jet will wake the bike up big time,if you weigh more than 80kg then you need to get the suspension done to suit your weight,

 

change oil at least every second ride,do the oil filter every second oil change.never rely on the sight glass to tell you how much oil you have,from brand new I dropped my oil out into a measuring jug and made sure it matched what the manual said should be in there,I then marked the jug at the level for oil change with and without filter so every time I drop the oil I can visually check if it all came out,otherwise if you start going off the sight glass you will start thinking you don't have enough oil and start over filling,grease all your electrical connections with dielectric grease to water proof them paying special attention to the grey stator plug found behind the left hand radiator mounted to the frame,this connection fills with water and causes all sorts of electrical gremlins,keep your battery on a battery tender when not in use,the stators are not the best on these bikes and some guys have lots of trouble keeping the battery charged,a good quality battery on a tender will have it running reliably,don't install any electrical add ons unless you get the stator rewound for more output,keep the air filter clean and pay special attention to the fitment,make sure you run your hand around the base to make sure its fully seated right the way around,dust will enter if you don't keep on top of it and the valves won't last long,

 

get a hold of the workshop manual as one thing you will want to do fairly quickly is clean the oil screen which get blocked with excess silicone dags and can prevent some oil from making it up to the cylinder head ,you will need a flywheel puller and the manual tells you how to do this,theres plenty more but I don't have time to go through it all in this post,i'm sure others will add there two cents in as well,read through all the topics here in the KLX section and you will soon see what other stuff you will find handy

Edited by ozglenn
  • Like 1
  • Helpful 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It looks awesome in your truck!

At first you are supposed to change the oil often like twice in the first 100 miles. After that I go by the color, dark tan is about 250 miles for my riding style and terrain and that is when I change,  I always do oil filter at the same time and put in 1.3L. OEM filter fit better on the cover so I buy those by the dozen.  I would use full synthetic to make the clutch happy.  Mine clutch squalked at me a couple times when using a partial synthetic back when the bike was new over 10,000 miles ago.

There are lots of threads on here about mods to make it better.  Ask if you can't find something.

I think most remove the air injection stuff and block it off.  Then open up the intake and exhast to get more power. Make sure you have some bigger jets ready to go in, or it will run so lean the exhaust will glow orange..  I use 45 pilot and 168 main JD jet kit needle at recommended groove(3rd) for 600ft elevation.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for replies/advice

I plan on keeping the bike for a long time and want to get it right from the start.  The dealer was getting rid of 2018 models  with 2K discount   :thumbsup: 

I'm using Penrite syn 10-40 MC4 in my '01 klx300, and will be using the same oil in the 450.

Watched a utube clip about the oil screen...........holy  #?@k!!!!!   -  potentially a big $$$ repair bill if left blocked.

 JD kit worked well on my CR 250 (b4 carb swap), so will def look at the jetting and other simple mods once the bike has loosened up a bit. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎11‎/‎28‎/‎2018 at 8:26 AM, RedmistNZ said:

Hey all, can anyone help with some tips on modern 450 engine maintenence. First time 450-4T owner.

Picked new bike up on Sat from dealer, rode 10 miles at moderate revs  and changed oil.

thx for any feedback.

 

 

IMG_0867.JPG

I lucked in with a local dealer - Here in Christchurch,     The dealer knew how to re-jet and supplied a new main - and pilot jet as well as an upgraded exhaust tip that fits the OEM muffler (1 and 1/4 inch I think) the jets were about $30 total the new tip $130 (NZ). The bike runs much better subsequently with less flame outs at low rpms (great for forest riding).  I haven't bothered with the header pipe, I have my header bolts lubed up with some sliver anti-seize and just remove one - loosen the other and swing the header out of the way.  Mines a 2015 - brought in 2016 - with 1k discount.  Between discount and trade in the total cost on the new bike was $3500 (NZ).  So far 90 Hours, oil changes every 10 or so hours.  I did have an extra spacer in the clutch stack from new that caused slippage - but the dealer rectified quickly when it was found.  A lowering link - I'm a 78kg short ass and the clickers one harder than they shipped on the front and as they shipped on the back and its sweet.  The best bike that have ever owned.  I did get he valve clearances checked at about 10 hours - but only for reference, so I know what clearances to look for when checked next.  I'm not power hungry, I was in the market for a new 250 but came across the 450 green machine and couldn't pass it up - more power than I'll ever need even with the standard exhaust.  I love the bike - its a keeper and about 10k$ less than the orange equivalent.  I think often overlooked and a really good trail / enduro bike.  Force out of Aussie make great radiator guards and bash plates - quite cost effective.  They can be found here:

https://forceaccessories.com.au/product-category/kawasaki-category/klx/450-klx/2007-2012-klx450/

I have both fitted and B&B off-road rear disk guard and rear master cylinder guard:

https://bboffroad.com.au/shop-by-bike/kawasaki-products?modd=614 

I hope this helps

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Learn where the grey stator plug is (mounted behind the left radiator/radiator shroud), it is prone to water ingestion whilst riding (river crossings/big puddles/rain) & washing etc, once this happens youll start getting erratic spark & all associated issues (poor starting and idling/cutting out/rough running).

It takes 5 min to unplug, clean, spray with contact cleaner & dry and could potentially save you with alot of bother with troubleshooting other areas - always do this job first as its the easiest/quickest to eliminate as a possible cause. 

I un-necessarily disassembled a carb 3 times & fiddled with jetting all due to the above.

Adam

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info, have found the stator plug and will waterproof it asap. I plan on moving the fuel tap too, that sucker could easily punch through the left rad  !!!

Any ideas on a jetting starting point.  Is stock jetting down under different from the states?

 

Quote
On ‎11‎/‎29‎/‎2018 at 10:32 AM, wielywilly-g said:

It looks awesome in your truck!

At first you are supposed to change the oil often like twice in the first 100 miles. After that I go by the color, dark tan is about 250 miles for my riding style and terrain and that is when I change,  I always do oil filter at the same time and put in 1.3L. OEM filter fit better on the cover so I buy those by the dozen.  I would use full synthetic to make the clutch happy.  Mine clutch squalked at me a couple times when using a partial synthetic back when the bike was new over 10,000 miles ago.

There are lots of threads on here about mods to make it better.  Ask if you can't find something.

I think most remove the air injection stuff and block it off.  Then open up the intake and exhast to get more power. Make sure you have some bigger jets ready to go in, or it will run so lean the exhaust will glow orange..  I use 45 pilot and 168 main JD jet kit needle at recommended groove(3rd) for 600ft elevation.

 

I ride below 2000ft (mostly sea level), was going to try 45 pilot-160ish main and lift the needle 1 clip . Keen to hear what others are using. Jd kit if needed, but would be good to order specific jets .

The stock muffler does nothing for me, so will fit a locally made aftermarket one and keep the stock header to start with and will rejet after that.

What the heck is the air injection,  are all models equipped with it ??  😕

Looking forward to opening this baby up, goes ok but def room for improvment.

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kawasaki NZ has an exhaust end cap (spark arrester removed & wider opening) & jetting kit (unsure of the specs but think around 48/155 ish), they chucked that in & installed for free when I purchased mine last year - ask em & they could well do the same for you.

I ran it for a few hours before installing a full fmf system with that jetting which was adequate, I purchased a JD jetting kit & ran it with a 170 for a bit but I feel this was too much (ran too rich & fuel consumption was way up)....now back to 155 & happy...

Good luck

Edited by HLAH
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Air injection = air introduced into the exhaust after the engine to improve emissions. Not in our part of the world.  The bigger / opened exhaust will make a huge improvement with the addition of the correct jetting.  I used Norjo motors her in Christchurch.  I sure if you gave them a call and purchased the jets through them they would be forthcoming with the correct jet info for an uncorked exhaust. :

121 Main South Road

Sockburn, Christchurch

03-3483493

sales@norjo.co.nz

 

I Didn't pay too much attention to what jets were fitted I just know they work, and I wont be mucking with it any time soon.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
49 minutes ago, HLAH said:

Kawasaki NZ has an exhaust end cap (spark arrester removed & wider opening) & jetting kit (unsure of the specs but think around 48/155 ish), they chucked that in & installed for free when I purchased mine last year - ask em & they could well do the same for you.

I ran it for a few hours before installing a full fmf system with that jetting which was adequate, I purchased a JD jetting kit & ran it with a 170 for a bit but I feel this was too much (ran too rich & fuel consumption was way up)....now back to 155 & happy...

Good luck

Thanks heaps, will give them a call   :thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
51 minutes ago, roleyrev said:

Air injection = air introduced into the exhaust after the engine to improve emissions. Not in our part of the world.  The bigger / opened exhaust will make a huge improvement with the addition of the correct jetting.  I used Norjo motors her in Christchurch.  I sure if you gave them a call and purchased the jets through them they would be forthcoming with the correct jet info for an uncorked exhaust. :

121 Main South Road

Sockburn, Christchurch

03-3483493

sales@norjo.co.nz

 

I Didn't pay too much attention to what jets were fitted I just know they work, and I wont be mucking with it any time soon.

Thanks for reply r-rev, one less de-smog job to do. 

Like you, I'm not tall or heavy, my weight falls just within spring specs, be good if there is a lowering kit available for klx/kxf?

This bike is heaps taller than expected, I have set the sag but still bloody high. Suspension feels plush , however lowering would be the icing on the cake.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, RedmistNZ said:

Thanks for reply r-rev, one less de-smog job to do. 

Like you, I'm not tall or heavy, my weight falls just within spring specs, be good if there is a lowering kit available for klx/kxf?

This bike is heaps taller than expected, I have set the sag but still bloody high. Suspension feels plush , however lowering would be the icing on the cake.

Yup I hear you - I use a KouberLink KLXR3 and have dropped the forks a little.  It makes for a much better ride for me.  Wicked in the tight stuff - slightly better turn in and can actually get my foot down when needed (usually when going slow) and not just bailing off.  The link was an easy fit.  I got it though the local dealer here. I dropped the folks to maintain geometry.  Before anybody comments - I ride hard all day long and have not had any bottoming out with the link. If there are any negatives they are strongly outweighed by the positives for a short ass like me - basically its made the bike a keeper.

The raised folks and I have also fitted some bar raisers (the curse of stumpy short arms) 

This is the exhaust tip that I was speaking about.  Opens the bike up and works a treat with the correct jetting:

And I know how I ride - so guards for everything (you can see in the top picture the rear brake cylinder guard) - below the Force bash-plate and radiator guards:

Ordered direct from Force in Aussie

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

serious armour there m8, bike looks mint 

I fitted a cycra bashplate to the 450, my CR250 and klx300 have ricochet bash plates, they work well where I ride . Those force rad guards look cool so will def look into them. thx

 

IMG_0879.JPG

IMG_0863.JPG

IMG_0801.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

stock jetting is 45 pilot and 145 in the main jet,way too lean to leave as is,if you run a de restricted factory exhaust then around 155 main will do the job,aftermarket exhaust look to run 158/160 and leave the pilot jet at 45,order a KXF NCVR fuel needle,I ran mine 4th clip from the top but experiment with what works for you,170 is factory KXF jetting and a little too rich for the KLX though fine to use but you're getting no advantage in doing so,I run full KXF exhaust,KXF airbox and 1mm oversize intake and exhaust valves and ran 160  main jet and was jetted perfect.strongly suggest you get an R & D flex jet fuel screw,the other aftermarket ones that come in kits can wind them selves out and have you chasing the fault till you work it out,the R&D won't wind out on you,also google the o-ring mod and do that at the same time as jetting.the JD kit has o-rings in it and instructions but when I removed my JD needle it was toast after 90hrs,swapped to the KXF NCVR needle and felt the response was better

  • Helpful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, RedmistNZ said:

serious armour there m8, bike looks mint 

I fitted a cycra bashplate to the 450, my CR250 and klx300 have ricochet bash plates, they work well where I ride . Those force rad guards look cool so will def look into them. thx

 

IMG_0879.JPG

IMG_0863.JPG

IMG_0801.JPG

Some good looking bikes.  I had a ride on a CR, it was like mountain bike with a motor LOL.    The KLX300 is a bit of a legend.  I've got a DRZ400 SM that is a bit blingy.  I have made it go ok by fitting fuel injection and some stage 2 hotcams.  It's not quite as grunty as the KLX450r but getting there.  The KLX450r is a bit of secret and underrated.  I think only available in New Zealand and Australia now. ^^ @ozglenn has had lots of experience with the KLX450r and his needle selections are probably spot on.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

DR looks like a bit of fun man and It's a minta, nice job.  How much difference did the hotcams make, any head work done?

 

Yea it seems the klx 450 has gone under the radar a bit, mabey because the weight on paper looks heavy (same a crf450x)

I was chasing one through a forest a was way impressed at it's nimbleness, that had me sold on one.

The bike feels light to ride and turns really well, but do notice the weight when pickn up of the ground................ (need more weetbix) LOL

I was lookn at used KTMs, a WR250fx and a CRF 450x but too rich for my pockets.   Kawasaki build tough bikes IMO, I havepreviously owned a kx and a kdx .

The KLX300 was set up by the original owner with a pumper carb and ohlins shock and airbox mod - goes and handles well for it's age.  I fitted the Cycleworks exaust- (450 will be getn same)

The CR250 took a lot of sorting out , but now its a bush weapon - CRF250x forks & shock with lighter spring - Airstriker carb - 10oz FWW - machined cylinder and head for 98 gas----twist throttle and hold on!!!!!

 

roll on summer m8:ride:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, ozglenn said:

stock jetting is 45 pilot and 145 in the main jet,way too lean to leave as is,if you run a de restricted factory exhaust then around 155 main will do the job,aftermarket exhaust look to run 158/160 and leave the pilot jet at 45,order a KXF NCVR fuel needle,I ran mine 4th clip from the top but experiment with what works for you,170 is factory KXF jetting and a little too rich for the KLX though fine to use but you're getting no advantage in doing so,I run full KXF exhaust,KXF airbox and 1mm oversize intake and exhaust valves and ran 160  main jet and was jetted perfect.strongly suggest you get an R & D flex jet fuel screw,the other aftermarket ones that come in kits can wind them selves out and have you chasing the fault till you work it out,the R&D won't wind out on you,also google the o-ring mod and do that at the same time as jetting.the JD kit has o-rings in it and instructions but when I removed my JD needle it was toast after 90hrs,swapped to the KXF NCVR needle and felt the response was better

Thats some good info there m8 - will save me and a heap of time and money :worthy:

NCVR needle and 160 main ordered today, will try to find the r&d fuel screw as well.

 

thx for reply

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FOLLOW THE MANUAL, that's the best advice I can give. 

And for the jetting, as long it's running fine don't mess with it just because someone says.... otherwise you will spend more time wrenching then riding

 

Edited by skorpan777
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for input - good advice for mechanically challenged people.

After many years of working on bikes and oldschool cars, I learned that stock jetting is mostly ballpark.

More air into engine- 2t or 4t = more fuel needed 

If jetted rich from factory less noticable, however if lean from factory then a larger exaust and de-restricted airbox could be getting close to the "really" lean condition as quoted above.

I burnt a hole in a piston because of incorrect lean jetting after mods.  That was 20yrs ago.

I prefer to go slightly richer in the top end on all my bikes. 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


×