Is there a difference between 10W-40 oils?

[unrooted]

I went to the local shop to get some fluids for my bike and the owner recommended the Yamalube over the Honda 10W-40 claiming that it didn't get as dirty when he does oil changes. . . it was also $8.50 per quart vs $6.50 per quart for the honda oil. 

I want to support local businesses, but sometimes I feel like they try to take advantage of my "generosity". . . it would be nice if they at least sold the stuff by the gallon to save me a few dollars. 

[cooldudesmd]

Then the Yamalube is obviously $2/qt better. But seriously, they just want your money.

[Bryan II]

Unless the owner is doing oil analysis on both under the same conditions and use, I say he's just passing on personal opinion, not scientific fact. I'm sure he means well and don't think he's scamming you on 2 dollars extra a quart which is less than a dollar per quart profit for a dealer. Pick from either, you won't know the diff and neither will your engine. 

[Piney Woods]

Walmart--Rotella

[PhilthyX]

I've been using Maxima Synblend 4 10w40 in my CRF250R and its like $9 US a liter at RMATV. I don't race but like to go FAST and use an hour meter and I change oil/filter max 10 engine hrs. I've got almost 300 engine hours on the bike since last piston and valve job and IMO I don't mind spending a bit more $$$ and its a piece of mind that I'm doing my best to extent the life of my high performance motor.

Also use it in my DRZ400e for both engine/clutch oil.

[Chuck.]

Two separate oil sumps on the X; one for the engine and one for the tranny/clutch. Honda recommends the same for both but that may be to simplify maintenance since the two fill and drains are easy to confuse.

I use a high quality synthetic in my engine because I have it on hand for the aftermarket cam in my XR. Motul 300V or Redline MC oil.

I then use a synthetic ATF in the tranny for better clutch operation. Valvoline Dextron VI Syn ATF.

Don't confuse the fill and drain ports if you use different oils!!

[mlatour]

57 minutes ago, unrooted said:

claiming that it didn't get as dirty when he does oil changes

Dirty oil can actually be a good thing, it's detergents and other additives keeping contaminants in suspension in the fluid.

[Chicken-N-Waffles]

Rotella T5

[turbo dan]

4 hours ago, unrooted said:

I went to the local shop to get some fluids for my bike and the owner recommended the Yamalube over the Honda 10W-40 claiming that it didn't get as dirty when he does oil changes. . . it was also $8.50 per quart vs $6.50 per quart for the honda oil. 

I want to support local businesses, but sometimes I feel like they try to take advantage of my "generosity". . . it would be nice if they at least sold the stuff by the gallon to save me a few dollars. 

Sounds like 100% bullshit.

Either oil is fine.  You could also get a gallon of Rotella T4 for like $15 and run that.  I use the 15w40 for 3000 mile intervals in my 600 and the blackstone analysis shows it does a very good job. 

[Beta300REcat]

Buy your motorcycle oil not at a dealership. Put that extra four dollars into a full synthetic. 

[William1]

As long as the rating matches or exceeds what is called for, the oil is fine. High quality synthetics last longer in gear boxes.

The best thing you can do is regularly change the oil and look at it. Change it after river crossings. Change it after a race day. Change the oil filter every five changes. Unless you have engine problems, even once every five oil changes is probably over kill for filters.

Do not over tighten the drain plug. Just snug. You are not holding the world together with it. It is just a fat plug.

[Chicken-N-Waffles]

As long as the rating matches or exceeds what is called for, the oil is fine. High quality synthetics last longer in gear boxes.
The best thing you can do is regularly change the oil and look at it. Change it after river crossings. Change it after a race day. Change the oil filter every five changes. Unless you have engine problems, even once every five oil changes is probably over kill for filters.
Do not over tighten the drain plug. Just snug. You are not holding the world together with it. It is just a fat plug.

Wise, very wise. You are a great help to those in need of sage advice. I appreciate you.

[turbo dan]

Most oils labeled full synthetic are actually mineral based oils.  Most of these are a waste of money compared to a good mineral oil with a suitable additive package, Rotella 15w40 for example.

 

[Chicken-N-Waffles]

Most oils labeled full synthetic are actually mineral based oils.  Most of these are a waste of money compared to a good mineral oil with a suitable additive package, Rotella 15w40 for example.
 

Yup, gotta pony up for esther stock.

[hotwhls]

13 hours ago, HevyRotashunz said:

Rotella T5

Don't use T5 its not Jaso MA/MA2certified.  The T4 and T6 Rotella is Jaso MA/MA2 certified.  

Edited November 28, 2018 by hotwhls
Change

[Piney Woods]

1 hour ago, turbo dan said:

Most oils labeled full synthetic are actually mineral based oils.  Most of these are a waste of money compared to a good mineral oil with a suitable additive package, Rotella 15w40 for example.

 

👍

[Beta300REcat]

1 hour ago, turbo dan said:

Most oils labeled full synthetic are actually mineral based oils.  Most of these are a waste of money compared to a good mineral oil with a suitable additive package, Rotella 15w40 for example.

TOTALLY FALSE.

[Beta300REcat]

1 hour ago, HevyRotashunz said:

Yup, gotta pony up for esther stock.

Those who know and care do. 😏

[Chicken-N-Waffles]

Don't use T5 its not Jaso certified.  The T4 and T6 Rotella is Jaso certified.  

You're wrong. It says MA2 right on the jug.

[turbo dan]

5 minutes ago, Beta300recat said:

TOTALLY FALSE.

Please allow me to waste more of my time explain this to you:

https://blog.amsoil.com/are-all-synthetic-oil-groups-the-same-group-iii-vs-iv-vs-v/

Are Group III base oils “synthetic?”

Yes, in most countries anyway.

A true definition for the term “synthetic oil” has been difficult to reach, although it has generally been accepted that the term represents those lubricants that have been specifically manufactured for a high level of performance. Group III base oils with very high viscosity indices can be called synthetic oils in most countries.

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil#Full

Some "synthetic" oil is made from Group III base stock, some from Group IV. Some from a blend of the two. Mobil sued Castrol and Castrol prevailed in showing that their Group III base stock oil was changed enough that it qualified as full synthetic. Since then API has removed all references to Synthetic in their documentation regarding standards.

"Full synthetic" is a marketing term and is not a measurable quality.