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timbanditos

650R valve help!

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9 minutes ago, notoriousE-R-I-C said:

You do valves with the motor running...got it

 

8ft lbs...you need new main bearings.

Eric, I don't need new main bearings.  It's easy until the rotation starts compressing the valve springs.  That's normal.  My XR100 does have a BBR full head kit so 2 valve springs per valve.  A couple of things I left out of my resume above.  I was also the team mechanic for Team Tejas and Team Your In On It.  Both were WERA national endurance roadracing teams.  In 3 years of racing, we had no mechanical failures except a flat tire.  We finished 2nd nationally in 1985.  I also worked on the GSXR600 ridden by Jeff Covington in sprint races.  He was a team Suzuki support rider.  I haven't heard anything about your mechanical and MC experience, other than sticking screwdrivers in spark plug holes.  Please elaborate.

 

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Ahh...so you do more work to charge more...got it.
The screwdriver move is how half of us do or have done it. And I've never heard of such damage as you describe. I'm not quite sure how you'd get a piston to move so fast turning a 4t single with no plug. No matter the amount of valves.
If you cause damage here it must be your first time doing it. Hence amateur.
The industry knows me...
We all do it differently

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"If you cause damage here it must be your first time doing it. Hence amateur."  That's just it, this is banditos first time, he is an amateur and he should be taught to do it the right way.

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3 minutes ago, humanrace911 said:

"If you cause damage here it must be your first time doing it. Hence amateur."  That's just it, this is banditos first time, he is an amateur and he should be taught to do it the right way.

Tim needs to buy a manual.

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2 hours ago, JoeRC51 said:

Tim needs to buy a manual.

They are available online.

You don't have to be dead nuts on TDC unless its a radical cam.

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Quick follow up for you guys, I wound up the open poles on my stator and re-installed it. Just fired up the bike and it started after a few warm up kicks to get it moving. Its been sitting in the cold 30 degree weather in my garage for a while, month or so.  It idles fine, lights and brake lights work fine as well.  I took it for a little ride around the block and it seems to run fine in first and second gear but when I got up to third gear and started to get on the throttle (50%) it started to drop power where it never did before. It doesn't seem like a jetting issue because it wasn't like that before winter. Could I have my valves adjusted incorrectly?  I assumed it wouldn't even start if they were adjusted wrong. Throttle felt fine before that 50% throttle point. Any idea what else could be causing it? Possible that I didn't warm it up enough?

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On 12/11/2018 at 4:08 PM, timbanditos said:

Quick follow up for you guys, I wound up the open poles on my stator and re-installed it. Just fired up the bike and it started after a few warm up kicks to get it moving. Its been sitting in the cold 30 degree weather in my garage for a while, month or so.  It idles fine, lights and brake lights work fine as well.  I took it for a little ride around the block and it seems to run fine in first and second gear but when I got up to third gear and started to get on the throttle (50%) it started to drop power where it never did before. It doesn't seem like a jetting issue because it wasn't like that before winter. Could I have my valves adjusted incorrectly?  I assumed it wouldn't even start if they were adjusted wrong. Throttle felt fine before that 50% throttle point. Any idea what else could be causing it? Possible that I didn't warm it up enough?

I'm not an expert on stator re-winding or ignition stuff, but suggest you start with the basics first.  Double check your wiring connections, clean air filter, fresh gas and a new spark plug.  Wouldn't hurt to recheck your valves as well (bike cold).  Normally if the valve clearance is off you will have trouble starting it.  For example, if the gap is too tight it will hold the valve open a little and you won't have good compression.  Your problem sounds more like fuel to me, maybe just from sitting.  The main jet and needle take over from the pilot (idle) jet as you roll on the throttle.  The main jet size and needle taper work together to make the correct air fuel mixture as the throttle position changes.  Things may just be gummed up in there.  Here's a picture of a friends XR400 main jet that was sitting for a while. (XR400 has same basic design carb as XR650R.)  Go for a real ride and see if it sorts itself out.  You will probably have to clean and rebuild the carb though.

IMG_20181013_214222.jpg

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Thanks Worley, checked my min jet is clean but it's a 170, temps are pretty cold since last running it so I gotta double check that jetting and triple check the valves while I epoxy my stator.

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Okay guys, I have checked and re-checked my valves 4 times now, .006 inches for intake and .008 exhaust. I feel like it starts and runs pretty good but I'm hearing some ticking. I feel like I have listened to a million videos of 650r's running and now I'm just losing my mind. Can anyone tell if I have exhaust too loose due to the decomp lever? Or does it sound okay?

 

 

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It's hard to tell in the video, but it does sound like more "ticking" than my XR650R. I have an idea, get a cheap mechanics stethoscope from auto parts store and see if you can pinpoint where the noise is coming from. Also, check out the motionpro feeler gauges, makes getting a good measurement easier.

Edited by worley_craig
more info
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Hard to tell but could it possibly be a exhaust leak? 
I didn't hear any exhaust leaks before, but I'm wondering if I failed on the auto-decomp valve.....

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Yup. Sounds to me like really really loose valve. My bet, the decompression exhaust valve. So, pull your timing index plug, pull the valve inspection plates. TDC the engine, easier way really to turn the mighty 650 over is to put the bike in 5th gear, on the stand so the back wheel is off the ground. Spin the wheel by hand and the motor turns over with ease. When the piston arrives at TDC, go a little to much, you'll hear a ting. That was the auto decompression action, you went to far. When the engine is at the proper position, ALL 4 rockers should have play. I'm thinking you will find the left exhaust valve is going to be WAY loose...and yes the bike will do weird things, as the 1 valve is not getting proper lift, causing a rich condition..hence the low flat power.

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Yup. Sounds to me like really really loose valve. My bet, the decompression exhaust valve. So, pull your timing index plug, pull the valve inspection plates. TDC the engine, easier way really to turn the mighty 650 over is to put the bike in 5th gear, on the stand so the back wheel is off the ground. Spin the wheel by hand and the motor turns over with ease. When the piston arrives at TDC, go a little to much, you'll hear a ting. That was the auto decompression action, you went to far. When the engine is at the proper position, ALL 4 rockers should have play. I'm thinking you will find the left exhaust valve is going to be WAY loose...and yes the bike will do weird things, as the 1 valve is not getting proper lift, causing a rich condition..hence the low flat power.
Thanks for the confirmation, in thought I was botching that tapper adjustment! Sounds like more tear down!

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