W.I.P. 1983 XR350 in Phoenix

[IronRanger88]

Hello ALL! 

This will be my Thread to follow my 83 XR350 Work In Progress. Long story short, I bought this Junker for $250 locally being told it was an 84XR250. After some investigation and help from TT Fellow forum followers (who are awesome people btw)  We concluded that this was INDEED an 83 XR350R. 

Original thread: 

 

Through My ignorance, I RIPPED the carbs off and completely destroyed the Carb insulator (16211-KF0-000) Which only exists as a new part in our hearts and NO WHERE else in the world. SO I will therefore be fabricating my own this week according to this awesome thread. 

So, in the mean time. I tried starting the bike with a quick fix. To my surprise, It starts! But quits once I turn off the choke, It dies. I will be doing a full tear down and Simple Green Bath of the carbs. Then Re jetting the carbs to the 135 main Jet and 110 secondary here:

 http://www.jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carburetor_type/jets_keihin_99101-357_main_Hex_25-xxx.htm

Pilot jet to a 48:

http://www.jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carburetor_type/jets_keihin_N424-74C_slow_27-xxx.htm

and am searching for a complete carb kit if one exists.  I did notice in my last cleaning that I'm missing the air cut off diaphram, so I ordered the Honda Shop manual here:

 http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?Make=AHC&Model=XR09&Year=&Category=&class_2=AHC&mk=Honda+Motorcycle&yr=All+Years&md=XR350R&dt=&module=&from=result&Style=helm&Sku=61KF001&itemtype=N

So I can get a full account of missing parts that will be necessary to build these carbs, adjust the valves, and anything else this bike will need to run like a BAT OUT OF HELL 80's wonder that it should. 

Other parts I've replaced the kickstand/spring, seat cover, and a few minor things from eBay. 

OH! and in my spare time, I'm making failed attempts at removing the spray paint from the plastic to see what is underneath. What a project. Again, thanks for the help guys! 

 

cody

 

[IronRanger88]

So here is a sweet update! 

Couldn't sleep last night, so of coarse I head to the garage. Consulted the K.I.S.S. method to figure out why this bike would be starved of fuel while trying to run. STEP ONE. Fuel tank vent clear, Check. STEP TWO. Is there fuel coming out of the petcock? NO! of course not..  Long story short, since the Petcock is riveted shut, I ended up hooking it up to my brake line vacuum and sucking out a big chunk of varnish. Works great now!   Was able to start and ride the bike around to functions check everything. I've got a lifter noise and the carbs are leaking like a stuck pig, but clutch, transmission, wheels, bla bla. I'm happy.  Will re check my RTV job when I tear down this weekend and see how that is holding up..

Question: what is the empty nozzle on the right side of the right carb?  (pictured)

[zrxer]

Well, good job. You're making progress!

That nozzle on the side is a vent. You might want to put a piece of hose on it and route it up somewhere out of dirt and debris way.

[IronRanger88]

6 minutes ago, zrxer said:

Well, good job. You're making progress!

That nozzle on the side is a vent. You might want to put a piece of hose on it and route it up somewhere out of dirt and debris way.

Awesome man, thanks. How about.... THIS ONE?

[zrxer]

That's just another vent, for your crankcase. I know on the bigger XRs it's routed somewhere above and/or to the side of the airbox. It just vents to atmosphere but it needs to be as high up as possible to avoid water intrusion during water crossings and such.

[IronRanger88]

1 minute ago, zrxer said:

That's just another vent, for your crankcase. I know on the bigger XRs it's routed somewhere above and/or to the side of the airbox. It just vents to atmosphere but it needs to be as high up as possible to avoid water intrusion during water crossings and such.

Sweet thanks!

[IronRanger88]

Ive made a horrible mistake. I wanted t make it easier to take the carb in and out, so I thought I'd unscrew the sud from the head. It just spun and spun and never came out. Eventually there was just no thread. I cant tell if the threads in the head are completely gone, but I need help on how to reverse time and not decide this was a good idea. 

Is there an oversized option I can tap into it to put in a bigger stud? If so, what size thread?

Thanks

[breakwellmz]

Oh dear! Helicoil insert.

[IronRanger88]

14 hours ago, breakwellmz said:

Oh dear! Helicoil insert.

We'll I found a "step down" stud and bought an M8 Tap. I have never trusted Helicoils... But I suppose I should try that first. Unfortunately I have to pull the engine to get the drill to fit.

 

[IronRanger88]

Tore the bike completely down today. Engine out, swing arm off. Need to touch up the paint. And suggestions as to what color red/orange I should shoot at it?

Would also like to restore the plastic as much as possible. Tips?

[IronRanger88]

Got the swing arm and linkages pulled off, apart, re aligned sleeves, replaced zerks, greased and re assembled! That thing was dry as a bone.. good thing I didnt ride it. 

Did some touch ups on the frame with a rustolium satin paprika. Actually doesn't look bad at all. 

Kickstand painted and installed.

Next will be helicoil M6 stud (decided to helicoil small before boring and putting the step down), degrease and clean the engine, cut tube and weld for the intake, and disassemble the carbs for the rebuild. 

PROGRESS! 

Edited December 3, 2018 by IronRanger88

[IronRanger88]

Curious, can I compression test with the engine out? I finally got my spark plug wrench in the mail and did a compression test. I'm getting 90 PSI with the engine out in the configuration seen above (with the engine out on the floor).  Seems low to me... Waiting for the Service manual so I can check on those things. but I'd rather not assemble the bike if I'm going to have to just take it right back out for new rings.

[Chuck.]

On 12/1/2018 at 10:55 PM, IronRanger88 said:

Tore the bike completely down today. Engine out, swing arm off. Need to touch up the paint. And suggestions as to what color red/orange I should shoot at it?

Would also like to restore the plastic as much as possible. Tips?

XR Colors Changes by year:
81-82   Tahitian Red (R23)
83        Flash Red (R119)
86        Flash Red with Shasta White (NH138)
91        Shasta White (NH138) with Rainbow Blue
94        Shasta White (NH138) with Real Blue
95        Shasta White (NH138) with Uranus Violet
97        Shasta White (NH138)
02        Fighting Red (R134)

The code in parenthesis  are the Honda color codes.

 

The livery for the 83 XR200R is as follows but the 83 XR350 should be the same.

1983 XR200R
Color: just one color: Flash Red
The front number panel and side panels were yellow
The frame was red, but the engine was black with polished fins
The seat and the rear tool bag were blue
The "XR" graphic on the seat was white
The swingarm decal was black

Some XR Color codes:
PB5L (FIJI BLUE) 84-88 seats
B106  (blue?)
NH1  black
NH138 Shasta White
NH146M  Accurate silver metallic
R119 Flash (lightning) red (84+)
R23  Tahitian red  (early XRs)

Honda color codes http:// http://www.vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/BHondaPaintCodes.htm

Here is a pic of my stock 87 XR250R:

If you don't care about a restoration just pick colors you like. Here is a contrast to the above pic, my 01 XR200R w/ mongrel colors:

If

The frame is VHT Urethane silver wheel paint w/ a clear urethane top coat. The red is late XR red. The rock guard is original 90 XR white. The engine color scheme is early XR.

 

Compression is always low on an engine that is cold and has been stored. Best to do after you get the engine in the bike and running, then test with a hot engine (and remember to WOT when testing).

 

Edited December 5, 2018 by Chuck.

[IronRanger88]

Awesome info Chuck Thanks!  Google thinks "WOT" means "World of Tanks", but I'm pretty sure you mean "Wide open throttle"?  Paprika worked for my (been sitting outside in the Arizona sun) Faded Red. I'm having the extremely rusted handle bars powder-coated white (for fun). BUT in the future if this bike works out, I will consider fully restoring one to OEM specs. This dual carb thing and it's rarity is growing on me. It's "Special" 

I read some things about the compression relief valve sticking, so I bought a cable lubing kit last night and lubed up all the cables ( which were WAY STICKY) hopefully that will also help. 

I also M6 tapped the intake stud, worked like a charm. I highly recommend the Power Coil Repair kits! They come with everything you need to do the whole job for $35 (25 coils, the drill bit, tap, tool, and a punch!) just need the correct T handle (an additional $8 or so) 

[Daniel627]

IronRanger, I used Citristip on mine. Got it at Lowe's. It worked amazingly. A few heavy spots needed a 2nd coating, but I really liked it. Brush it on, let it sit, then scrape or wipe it off. 

The after picture is after I did a little wet sanding

[IronRanger88]

1 minute ago, Daniel627 said:

IronRanger, I used Citristip on mine. Got it at Lowe's. It worked amazingly. A few heavy spots needed a 2nd coating, but I really liked it. Brush it on, let it sit, then scrape or wipe it off. 

The after picture is after I did a little wet sanding

Looks Awesome.. What was your final grit of sand paper?

[Daniel627]

I honestly never got to finish completely sanding them to a high grit she I could polish them and make em look new again. I did 400 grit and i think maybe some 600. But then I put them back on the bike and haven't gotten around to redoing it completely yet. I was just happy they were pretty and white white again lol

When I do them again, I'll probably go to 1200, then use my bench polisher and buff em shiny

Edited December 5, 2018 by Daniel627
Left stuff out

[IronRanger88]

-I got the Engine cleaned and put back into the frame. Spent and hour thinking I knew how to assemble the exhaust correctly, FINALLY got it together and it was obviously very wrong! haha, WHERE DO THESE LITTLE HALF ROUND THINGS GO!? 

-I'm an Idiot sometimes. 

-My Service manual should come in today or tomorrow, that'll also help. 

-I soaked the rusted out chain in semi old oil for a week, steel brushing it every once in a while, and have it hanging from the ceiling in my garage to drip dry. Hopefully "restore" it again for some more use. 

-tried installing my aftermarket seat cover myself, but I couldn't get into the smallest areas with my normal staple gun. Decided to drop it off at a professional place to install. NOT an expense I had calculated in, but I think it'll help the overall look significantly in the end (it was $25 to install, not the end of the world)

- looking through my wiring harness and someone who didn't know what they were doing has been here before me...  I hate them.  I'm going to have to look thought the wiring diagram when I get the book and see what is missing. Hopefully nothing awful.  I also need to buy a headlight bulb. Anything aftermarket work well?

 

 

[Daniel627]

Those half round things go in with the head tube at the cylinder head. 

Summe you don't have your manual yet, you can go to Bikebandit.com or Partzilla.com. Go to the OEM section find your bike and what you're looking on, and there will be an expanded view of all the parts.

Add for the chain, the outer rust would start off in any wear areas. It's the rust in the pins and rollers you gotta worry about. A new chain and sprockets are an expense that would be good to start out with on a fresh build. Di'nt want an old chain breaking and slapping the engine case, putting a big hole in it. That happened to me on my '08 CBR600RR, the chain only had 2000 miles on it. I was very not happy! 

Upholstery, best left to the professionals lol. I suck at it. 

Good luck with the wiring 

[IronRanger88]

11 minutes ago, Daniel627 said:

Those half round things go in with the head tube at the cylinder head. 

Summe you don't have your manual yet, you can go to Bikebandit.com or Partzilla.com. Go to the OEM section find your bike and what you're looking on, and there will be an expanded view of all the parts.

Add for the chain, the outer rust would start off in any wear areas. It's the rust in the pins and rollers you gotta worry about. A new chain and sprockets are an expense that would be good to start out with on a fresh build. Di'nt want an old chain breaking and slapping the engine case, putting a big hole in it. That happened to me on my '08 CBR600RR, the chain only had 2000 miles on it. I was very not happy! 

Upholstery, best left to the professionals lol. I suck at it. 

Good luck with the wiring 

Right, The microfiche doesn't really give me a good explanation where they sit exactly... This shows that they are the thing touching the copper gasket (doubt that is correct)  I see that they fit around the "fatter" part of the manifold, but they didn't seem to fit around that and inside the head at the same time. 

I'll play with it again tonight.