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2015 450 sxf clutch issue?

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So I installed the Midwest mountain engineering clutch lever. That’s not the issue. I love it.

 

The issue is adjustment. It seems to change significantly as the motor warms up. At the start of the ride, I’ll have the engagement point close to the bar as suggested by mwme. After the engine is hot, it’s creeped out all the way to the point where the clutch almost starts slipping even if I’m not touching the lever. So I adjusted the screw out. Had to tweak it a bit but I thought I was good to go. That was last Friday.

 

Fast forward to yesterday when I changed the oil. Started the bike to warm it up and take it for a spin Around the yard. Pulled the clutch, out it in first and the engine shut down. I had to adjust the clutch again.

 

I thought the point of a hydraulic clutch was you didn’t have to adjust it. What’s going on?

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50 minutes ago, Kallendbor said:

 

So I installed the Midwest mountain engineering clutch lever. That’s not the issue. I love it.

 

The issue is adjustment. It seems to change significantly as the motor warms up. At the start of the ride, I’ll have the engagement point close to the bar as suggested by mwme. After the engine is hot, it’s creeped out all the way to the point where the clutch almost starts slipping even if I’m not touching the lever. So I adjusted the screw out. Had to tweak it a bit but I thought I was good to go. That was last Friday.

 

Fast forward to yesterday when I changed the oil. Started the bike to warm it up and take it for a spin Around the yard. Pulled the clutch, out it in first and the engine shut down. I had to adjust the clutch again.

 

I thought the point of a hydraulic clutch was you didn’t have to adjust it. What’s going on?

 

Min does that too, if you notice when you release the lever full extension (Very cold or very hot air temp(unridden bike) can be kinda slow at the very end , this is where the actuation point will be closer to the bar, soon as the clutch heats up actuation is further out, and plunger is more free.

I think it has something to do with the master plunger, cause I've pulled my cover shot some brake fluid, and it frees up instantly.

Also the rubber blatter in the master may be gradually distorting over time(not allowing full suction), and causing the issue, I'm not really sure, cause I understand the drill, of just squeezing the clutch multiple times before riding off(which helps). But still the issue is there till clutch full warm.

eventually I'll probably rebuild the master plunger, and get a new blatter, and see the effect. Considering my bike has over 800 hours on orginal parts, Ive never broke down the slave either for new oring, but have kept very fresh fluid in it.

so set the  clutch for full hot, and just remember to squeeze the clutch a lot when cold to free up the plunger.

if you have any severe dryness in the plunger  from washing, your condition could be worse.

if you pull the plunger cover, atleast on 2015+ masters , alittle lube and 14mm socket to pop it back it.

Edited by Spud786

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Yes, the master cylinder piston plunger , to really get at it , you have to remove a dust cover in the caliper.

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may even be the piston plunger spring weakens over time, and gets marginal, quickly getting out to full extension.

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Today’s ride was better. I think the mwme trades throw (length of travel) for its leverage gain. When the engagement point is “perfect” the clutch still drags. And I have to shut down for neutral. Side effect of the mwme lever I guess.

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Have you adjusted it as per the instructions?

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Have you adjusted it as per the instructions?

Yes. And I’ve even called them for direction. The issue is when its adjusted while hot (as directed) it tends to drag a bit even when pulled to the bar (recall that they direct you to adjust it so that the full engagement is just off the bar) When cold, pulling in the clutch and putting it in gear, there is so much drag that the bike stalls.

So unless I misread the directions and they mean the initial bit of drag should be just off the bar, and not full engagement just off the bar, I’m trying to figure out if there is something wrong with my system somewhere. Maybe the clutch fluid needs refreshing. Maybe someone more knowledgeable can see these symptoms as signs of glazed plates or something like that.

I believe the bike has less than 25 hours.

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I would bleed the clutch

Also what wt oil you use ? 10w50?

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10w50 motores per the manual.  I finally settled on adjustment per the directions (really starts to engage about a finder width off the bar).  when it's cold I have to give it gas to keep the bike from stalling, and it will jump forward. and finding neutral when it's running is pretty much impossible.

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