Magura Clutch

I have a Magura Clutch on my 2000 - yz426 and is seemed like it was grabbing real jittery when engaging. I was checking it out and found that the rod that connects to the clutch arm was bent. So I straightened it out and had to bleed the system. (Great posts for doing that on tt) I noticed that the rod that got bent now has residue on it each time it is pulled. I am wondering if there is a seal or gasket that may have blown out. Is there a rebuild kit for them? Anyone have any experience on this?

rooster,mine has had oily film on the rod since new i bought it late last year and continues to work very well,i was worried at first but i have had no problems so far(fluid level stays the same after many checks and not enough fluid to make a drip from the rod)i would even wipe it off then pull in the clutch and it would be wet again,so i would say it's normal.maybe keep an eye on the fluid level.

If you are talking about the Hymec system, mine does the same. You can ride a lot before you need to add any fluid.

I don't know if Magura changed the design since I bought mine, but watch out for the threads on the end of that rod where the nipple screws on. Mine fatigued and broke at the base of the threads. I had to braze on a new nipple which involved dissasembling the slave cylinder, but worst of all I was stuck on the trail with no clutch. Also, I would recommend using the rubber boot off from the stock clutch cable on your slave cylinder rod. It keeps most of the dirt out.


I have not seen large amount of fluid on the rod more a film like you described. I like the idea of some type of cover on the rod...I bought the bike used and the magura was on it when I got it so I dont have the original cover. Any other suggestion to use? I did a search on what type of oil to add to the system and there seems not to be alot of responses to it. The system calls for "Mineral Oil" Specifically on the cover. When I downloaded a section on how to bleed the system it specifically says (Do NOT use brake fluid) the question I have is this: Is this the same type of Mineral Oil I would get at a supermarket? I asked at the dealership in our area nd believe it or not noone knew the answer!

When I repaired mine, I refilled the system with automatic transmission fluid because I'd read somewhere that it would work, and it has for a couple years. It's easily available and inexpensive. I was in the bicycle shop the other day and I noticed they sell mineral oil for hydraulic bicycle brakes. I didn't notice the price, but that's a possibility as well.


Does the grabbing get any better after the bike has done a few laps? IMHO, it sounds like the '00 clutch problem with the inner plate sticking to the hub (rather than an issue with the Magura).

Mine always did it too (with cable & Magura). Installing a Hinson basket helped a bit (it increases the oil flow around the plates), but I believe you can substitute some '01 parts for a cheaper fix. You should find some good threads on the '00 clutch issues here on TT..

HTH, Jon E.

Could any of you guys e-mail me a pic of your set-up. I just put mineon and have WAY to much slack between the slave cylinder and the bracket that holds it on. The bracket is to large in diameter and i was wodering what other pepole did to remedy this?? or

IRIDEYZ, the slave is ment to move around and find its own center. If you make it solid it will leak.The fitting instructions tell you what to do. I use a little rubber gator taken from the vee brakes of my specialized mountain bike to slip over the exsposed rode. With the clutch arm lengthend 7.5mm and the enduro engineering lever when I ride it is soo light the wind keeps disengaging the clutch for me :):D

I don't think it's meant to move around this much though. It has a good ten to 12 mm of travel in the bracket. If i hit a bump its gonna bend the rod. that's why i would like to have a pic of someone else's to see if i'm missing any hardware.

I didn't care for the slop either, or the fact that as the clutch actuates the cylinder rocks a little, which over time os going to wear the aluminum. I took a solid piece of nylon, UHMW, or Delrin (basically white hard plastic) and made a spilt cone shaped washer. The taper keeps the cylinder centered, and the material provides an alternate wear point. Works just fine.

Went to the local pharmacy and picked up some mineral oil for $2, works great.


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