C'est la vie

[ChilledRider]

Just received my replacement engine (yay).... 2nd thing I try to undo rounds off. Looks like I'll need to make sure I use a good amount of de-gripping spray on some bolts before I try undo them.

 

The same happened when I bought my bike on my original engine. I wanted to open her up and see what's what but it rounded off again. Only way I managed to get it out was to open up the stator case and with difficulty get it out from within. That was a challenge I must say.

 

Are there any tips on this which may make this job a touch easier? ?

 

Many Thanks folks.

[Juney]

Are you using the correct size wrench?

I just put it in and give it a few taps until it starts to loosen up. They make anodized ones that look fancy and might hold up better

[ChilledRider]

I was using the correct size hex bit, tried a regular length gave it a few knocks wasn't shifting so pulled out the 1 foot wrench for some extra leverage tapped it a few times give it a nudge rounded. Meh. I need it out anyway because I have a much better one in my own engine that I'm going to use instead. Never have any trouble with that. Even tried using the impact drill to give it some shocks but to no avail.

Edited December 12, 2018 by ChilledRider

[Juney]

I was using the correct size hex bit, tried a regular length gave it a few knocks wasn't shifting so pulled out the 1 foot wrench for some extra leverage tapped it a few times give it a nudge rounded. Meh. I need it out anyway because I have a much better one in my own engine that I'm going to use instead. Never have any trouble with that. Even tried using the impact drill to give it some shocks but to no avail.

Yeah, I don't know if there's anything else you could have done. All the bikes I've had were bad about rounding off on that part.

[ChilledRider]

Just now, Juney said:

2 minutes ago, ChilledRider said:

I was using the correct size hex bit, tried a regular length gave it a few knocks wasn't shifting so pulled out the 1 foot wrench for some extra leverage tapped it a few times give it a nudge rounded. Meh. I need it out anyway because I have a much better one in my own engine that I'm going to use instead. Never have any trouble with that. Even tried using the impact drill to give it some shocks but to no avail.

Yeah, I don't know if there's anything else you could have done. All the bikes I've had were bad about rounding off on that part.

How do you go about getting them out? from the inside or just hammer in a bigger bit and give it some welly? ?

 

[Juney]

I cut a little slot in one when I knew it was headed for the trash anyways. Then I used a piece of scrap metal as a giant Flathead screw driver.

I don't think I've ever had to come at it from the inside, but you might be able to get some torque on it that way

[GuyGraham]

Warm engine up to make the case expand

If hex is rounded then use a centre punch near the od of the plug and tap it round to undo the plug.

[ChilledRider]

2 minutes ago, GuyGraham said:

Warm engine up to make the case expand

If hex is rounded then use a centre punch near the od of the plug and tap it round to undo the plug.

Yeah I think I'll do that. I take it a blow torch would do the job?

[GuyGraham]

No, just run the engine

[Erik Marquez]

1 hour ago, ChilledRider said:

Just received my replacement engine (yay).... 2nd thing I try to undo rounds off. Looks like I'll need to make sure I use a good amount of de-gripping spray on some bolts before I try undo them.

 

The same happened when I bought my bike on my original engine. I wanted to open her up and see what's what but it rounded off again. Only way I managed to get it out was to open up the stator case and with difficulty get it out from within. That was a challenge I must say.

 

Are there any tips on this which may make this job a touch easier? ?

 

Many Thanks folks.

Its super common to round out the hex in the stator cover plug. Folks way over tighten them,making them difficult to remove.. The "better" way to loosen them is with an impact tool, like a impact gun. (NOTE do not use a hand impact driver, the ones you strike with a hammer, its as likely to drive the hex bit through the plug as it is loosen it.)
Too remove the damaged one, drill a small simple on the outer edge, use a punch and hammer to drive it counter clockwise.
When you go to install the new one, go gently, you are just compressing the O ring and snugging it up when the part bottoms out ... Not trying to tighten a lung nut on a 1 ton truck. put a very light smear of anti seize on the threads and the metal surface that will contact the case..Do not make it sloppy, just enough to "paint" the surface 


 

[ChilledRider]

15 minutes ago, GuyGraham said:

No, just run the engine

Would love to but it's not in the bike ?  engine was delivered today but I'm changing the cam chain and giving it new gaskets and so on before I put it into the bike ?

 

11 minutes ago, Erik Marquez said:

Its super common to round out the hex in the stator cover plug. Folks way over tighten them,making them difficult to remove.. The "better" way to loosen them is with an impact tool, like a impact gun. (NOTE do not use a hand impact driver, the ones you strike with a hammer, its as likely to drive the hex bit through the plug as it is loosen it.)
Too remove the damaged one, drill a small simple on the outer edge, use a punch and hammer to drive it counter clockwise.
When you go to install the new one, go gently, you are just compressing the O ring and snugging it up when the part bottoms out ... Not trying to tighten a lung nut on a 1 ton truck. put a very light smear of anti seize on the threads and the metal surface that will contact the case..Do not make it sloppy, just enough to "paint" the surface 


 

Cheers erik ?

 

I tried using my impact gun but it didn't wanna budge. So I have been making a mark on it so I can hammer it out counter clockwise. If it still doesn't shift I'll just grab a heat gun to give me that little bit extra help.  From when I had to mess around the first time with this issue I made sure that I never over tightened my new caps because I didn't want to have that issue again ? So for sure won't be doing the same. Sound advice ? Cheers guys.

I'm taking my time and being as gentle as possible, no rushing as it seems to work better ?

[ohiodrz400sm]

Take the cover off , drill through the hex and grab an EZ out. Be done with it in minutes with zero chance of slipping and hitting th magnesium case.

[HansLanda]

I did this when checking my valve lash the first time. Much easier to leave this cap alone, and turn the crank by turning the back wheel in 5th gear.

[ChilledRider]

Got the bugger that was on tight. But thankfully already have my replacement. I think I will be changing the stator cover anyway from my other engine as this one has some corrosion on it that I'm not really into.



So far so good though woohoo

Touch wood next week I'll be riding again yay. Valve clearances valve clearances valve clearances. Just about to check them for probably their first time in 20k miles. Ooo I do love the smell of an engine [emoji3]

[ChilledRider]

Just wondering are these bolts meant to be really tight? Trying to undo them and wow they are taking a lot of physical force and I still haven't budged them.

Not sure if this engine has been opened before. So far so good besides the exhaust timing being at 0.20mm and 0.18mm, intakes 0.15mm [emoji846]

 

Edited December 12, 2018 by ChilledRider

[ChilledRider]

Got it, just needed some extra leverage. [emoji106]

[ChilledRider]

Last question for now,

 

is it alright to clean off some of the carbon on the valve heads? would that mess around with the valve clearances in a negative way or?

 

Cheers guys

[Juney]

Last question for now,
 
is it alright to clean off some of the carbon on the valve heads? would that mess around with the valve clearances in a negative way or?
 
Cheers guys

If I'm understanding correctly, you want to clean off the carbon from the side of the valve that is facing in towards the cylinder. That won't affect clearances at all, and is probably a good idea. It's always good to check the clearances again once you've mostly put things back together.

[ChilledRider]

[emoji846][emoji106]

 

And yeah I have for sure learned to check clearances. That's the reason why I had to buy another engine >.<

Edited December 12, 2018 by ChilledRider

[Erik Marquez]

14 hours ago, ChilledRider said:

 

And yeah I have for sure learned to check clearances. That's the reason why I had to buy another engine >.<

Do not scrape, poke, and pry at that carbon... dissolve it with WD40 or other carbon solvent and lightly scrub with a 3M pad.

If you can buy WD-40 in a bottle in the UK, lay the head upside down so the cylinder side is flat and level. Fill the combustion area with WD-40, cover with some plastic wrap so the solvents don't evaporate too quickly and leave 24 hours (or longer) , steal a 3M scrub pad from the kitchen supplies and lightly scrub the carbon away. Finish up with a lint free cloth and some more WD-40.