2019 FX350 TPS

[djsather]

I will be picking up my new FX350 soon and I have a couple questions.

1. I know in the past adjusting the TPS was a must because of flameout.  is that still an issue with the 2019?

2. if it is still an issue, is there a good value range that people are using to set the TPS on 2019s?

3. Are the values for the FX350 going to be the same as a KTM 350XC-F? or are they different?

 

thanks!

[ride200mi]

So it is my understanding that the 2018 and 2019 engine didn't really change that much. Some DLC has been added to the 2019 but it appears everything else is the same. The TPS was mentioned as a suspect on the flame out issue but even after I had my 2018 checked, it still flamed out on the most in opportune time (I had also installed a FMF muffler that leaded out the engine also). Relating back to some past knowlage of having some 4 strokes stall, I did a couple of tried and true things to get it to work better with my style of off road riding. First (because of feed back I got from the Husqvarna service rep), I bought a JD tuner (some will call them a piggy back ECU programmer). Rode it and tuned it according to what I felt worked the best. Mainly just off idle I richened it. Made sure the idle was set correctly (and it needed to be a little on the low side due to the Rekluse that was installed). Added a better fuel filter that had better flow. Installed KTMHusky inlet elbow to allow better flow too. Both made a great improvement in starting and running at lower RPM's. I later installed a exh flange and found it helped even more to improve the stalling while riding in the slow single track conditions. I also switch to running 30% C12 VP fuel. 70% 91 pump gas and 30% C12 helped to with the throttle response. I hope this helps but you must make the finial decision on what will work for you.

[weantright]

You added a tuner but no mention of the FMF map. Did you load the FMF map?

[djsather]

16 hours ago, ride200mi said:

So it is my understanding that the 2018 and 2019 engine didn't really change that much. Some DLC has been added to the 2019 but it appears everything else is the same. The TPS was mentioned as a suspect on the flame out issue but even after I had my 2018 checked, it still flamed out on the most in opportune time (I had also installed a FMF muffler that leaded out the engine also). Relating back to some past knowlage of having some 4 strokes stall, I did a couple of tried and true things to get it to work better with my style of off road riding. First (because of feed back I got from the Husqvarna service rep), I bought a JD tuner (some will call them a piggy back ECU programmer). Rode it and tuned it according to what I felt worked the best. Mainly just off idle I richened it. Made sure the idle was set correctly (and it needed to be a little on the low side due to the Rekluse that was installed). Added a better fuel filter that had better flow. Installed KTMHusky inlet elbow to allow better flow too. Both made a great improvement in starting and running at lower RPM's. I later installed a exh flange and found it helped even more to improve the stalling while riding in the slow single track conditions. I also switch to running 30% C12 VP fuel. 70% 91 pump gas and 30% C12 helped to with the throttle response. I hope this helps but you must make the finial decision on what will work for you.

VERY GOOD INFO!  much appreciated.

a couple more questions.....

Have you ever had any issues with the piggyback?  And just so I understand, that just adds or subtracts fuel at a given throttle opening, correct?

when you had your TPS checked, did you also richen it up, or leave it as it was?

[weantright]

You can get the ECU remapped for less and that includes timing changes. I had an issue with a piggy back on a  310txc. For the money I would go a remap for the simple fact of being more simple and one less item to break. 

[djsather]

19 minutes ago, weantright said:

You can get the ECU remapped for less and that includes timing changes. I had an issue with a piggy back on a  310txc. For the money I would go a remap for the simple fact of being more simple and one less item to break. 

Where/who do you go to get the ECU remapped?  Is it worth just getting a Vortex?

[Kallendbor]

Try blais racing for a remap.

[ride200mi]

5 hours ago, djsather said:

VERY GOOD INFO!  much appreciated.

a couple more questions.....

Have you ever had any issues with the piggyback?  And just so I understand, that just adds or subtracts fuel at a given throttle opening, correct?

when you had your TPS checked, did you also richen it up, or leave it as it was?

I have had no issues what so ever with the JD tuner. When I had the TPS checked it was spot on the factory settings. And I did not want to change them. I like the JD because if I ever want to revert back to stock trim, I just have to unplug it. On these bikes a remap is unnecessary IMHO. To answer the question about adding or subtracting, I believe it does.

[ride200mi]

13 hours ago, weantright said:

You added a tuner but no mention of the FMF map. Did you load the FMF map?

I am unaware of any FMF map/s. And at this point doubt I would change to that anyway. It is running spot on now.

[ride200mi]

4 hours ago, weantright said:

You can get the ECU remapped for less and that includes timing changes. I had an issue with a piggy back on a  310txc. For the money I would go a remap for the simple fact of being more simple and one less item to break. 

Maybe on the older Husky's this might be the way to go. They had different ECU's than the ones on the newer bikes. I agree, some bikes don't like the piggy back style ECU, but the newer KTM/Husky's work pretty well from what I've seen and experienced so far. I've not seen a remap as inexpensive as the JD kit but I didn't look that hard for one either.

[weantright]

13 hours ago, djsather said:

Where/who do you go to get the ECU remapped?  Is it worth just getting a Vortex?

These FX’s don’t have a locked ECU so a Vortex isn’t needed unless you wanted different maps. 

10 hours ago, ride200mi said:

I have had no issues what so ever with the JD tuner. When I had the TPS checked it was spot on the factory settings. And I did not want to change them. I like the JD because if I ever want to revert back to stock trim, I just have to unplug it. On these bikes a remap is unnecessary IMHO. To answer the question about adding or subtracting, I believe it does.

Remap isn’t needed but you went with a tuner? A map will give you fuel just like a tuner but also timing. Why would you revert back to stock after you have a good running bike? Only reason to go back to stock is if the piggyback fails. 

9 hours ago, ride200mi said:

Maybe on the older Husky's this might be the way to go. They had different ECU's than the ones on the newer bikes. I agree, some bikes don't like the piggy back style ECU, but the newer KTM/Husky's work pretty well from what I've seen and experienced so far. I've not seen a remap as inexpensive as the JD kit but I didn't look that hard for one either.

Blias racing remaps for $89 and FMF map is free at most dealers if you bought the system there. FMF map is only available thru your dealer and only for the FX models. I know several run the FMF map on a stock bike with good results. There’s many ways to adjust the system without a piggyback tuner.  These tuners are a great way to get the performance back on a locked ECU bike but not the best direction on all other models  

https://blaisracingservices.com/2012-2017-ktm-husqvarna-custom-ecu-mapping.html

 

[ride200mi]

On 12/22/2018 at 5:08 AM, weantright said:

These FX’s don’t have a locked ECU so a Vortex isn’t needed unless you wanted different maps. 

Remap isn’t needed but you went with a tuner? A map will give you fuel just like a tuner but also timing. Why would you revert back to stock after you have a good running bike? Only reason to go back to stock is if the piggyback fails. 

Blias racing remaps for $89 and FMF map is free at most dealers if you bought the system there. FMF map is only available thru your dealer and only for the FX models. I know several run the FMF map on a stock bike with good results. There’s many ways to adjust the system without a piggyback tuner.  These tuners are a great way to get the performance back on a locked ECU bike but not the best direction on all other models  

https://blaisracingservices.com/2012-2017-ktm-husqvarna-custom-ecu-mapping.html

 

Timing isn't a issue with the FX. And as to reverting back to stock. I'll do that if I need to sell the bike and or somethings comes up that would need a base line. i.e. timing.... Some of these companies don't guarantee that you will get YOUR ECU back and so can cause future issues. I have yet had a dealer interested in the FMF tune. Apparently it doesn't do much to help with the stalling that occurs with these models. To each his own I guess....

Edited December 23, 2018 by ride200mi

[socalluke]

I found that once I bumped up the idle to around 1600 rpm the flameouts went away 100%. All stock (well except skid plate and flexx bars) 20 hours later and this bike rips. Did take 10 or so hours for the suspension and motor to break in. 

[djsather]

On ‎12‎/‎22‎/‎2018 at 7:08 AM, weantright said:

These FX’s don’t have a locked ECU so a Vortex isn’t needed unless you wanted different maps. 

Remap isn’t needed but you went with a tuner? A map will give you fuel just like a tuner but also timing. Why would you revert back to stock after you have a good running bike? Only reason to go back to stock is if the piggyback fails. 

Blias racing remaps for $89 and FMF map is free at most dealers if you bought the system there. FMF map is only available thru your dealer and only for the FX models. I know several run the FMF map on a stock bike with good results. There’s many ways to adjust the system without a piggyback tuner.  These tuners are a great way to get the performance back on a locked ECU bike but not the best direction on all other models  

https://blaisracingservices.com/2012-2017-ktm-husqvarna-custom-ecu-mapping.html

 

I do usually throw an FMF 4.1 on my bikes, do you know what the "FMF MAP" does?  is it just richer fuel to compensate for the greater air flow?

and I know it sound stupid, but I have an issue with sending out my ECU and getting a different one back, I want the one I sent out if i'm going to send it anywhere.

 

[djsather]

8 hours ago, socalluke said:

I found that once I bumped up the idle to around 1600 rpm the flameouts went away 100%. All stock (well except skid plate and flexx bars) 20 hours later and this bike rips. Did take 10 or so hours for the suspension and motor to break in. 

So you have your idle at 1600 or do you mean 1600 higher?  I ask because most people I have spoken to say that the flameouts went away at about 2400 rpms.

 

 

[weantright]

8 minutes ago, djsather said:

I do usually throw an FMF 4.1 on my bikes, do you know what the "FMF MAP" does?  is it just richer fuel to compensate for the greater air flow?

and I know it sound stupid, but I have an issue with sending out my ECU and getting a different one back, I want the one I sent out if i'm going to send it anywhere.

 

I will be installing the FMF map this spring. I was told it adds fuel here and there, there’s a timing change also. Most people are happy with stock but there’s some wanting more. For me it’s free and more of a experiment.  Ride200mi is correct that these bikes don’t suffer with timing issues like the DOT models. However they will still respond with some changes to the timing. As for the ECU, need to talk to the shop doing the map and they will have all the details you need. I memory is correct ECU’s are vin linked so you should get you original ECU back. 

7 minutes ago, djsather said:

So you have your idle at 1600 or do you mean 1600 higher?  I ask because most people I have spoken to say that the flameouts went away at about 2400 rpms.

 

 

My idle is around 2200 rpm which is where most modern 4t should be running. 

[djsather]

On ‎12‎/‎24‎/‎2018 at 7:01 AM, weantright said:

I will be installing the FMF map this spring. I was told it adds fuel here and there, there’s a timing change also. Most people are happy with stock but there’s some wanting more. For me it’s free and more of a experiment.  Ride200mi is correct that these bikes don’t suffer with timing issues like the DOT models. However they will still respond with some changes to the timing. As for the ECU, need to talk to the shop doing the map and they will have all the details you need. I memory is correct ECU’s are vin linked so you should get you original ECU back. 

My idle is around 2200 rpm which is where most modern 4t should be running. 

gotcha!  I pick up the bike on Friday, and i'll probably want to ride it all stock for about 10-15 hours to break everything in and also then i'll fully understand what all the changes are doing to the feel. i'm just trying to get a baseline understanding before the process.  Also I was unsure if they fixed the little issues with the 2019 that everyone has been seeing with the 2016-2018 models.  Very much appreciated.

 

yes, I am coming from a Yamaha 250FX and I thought that liked a high idle (2000) because all of my carburated bikes like the idle around 1800.  So when my friend said that he has his 2017 KTM XC-F set at 2400 I was a little shocked.  But it is what it is to get the bike to run right without stalling.

[socalluke]

On 12/24/2018 at 4:44 AM, djsather said:

So you have your idle at 1600 or do you mean 1600 higher?  I ask because most people I have spoken to say that the flameouts went away at about 2400 rpms.

 

 

My Idle is right around 1600. If dead flat and smooth, I can do 2nd gear starts with no throttle and stock gearing. When I first got the bike, the rpm was 1100 (and that first hour ride, had a lot of flameouts, usually slowing going tight turns.)

[socalluke]

Do think the fueling is better for MY19......Haven't even thought about the tps or re-map......

Now my 15 FE501S, that was a much different story. haha!

[djsather]

My Idle is right around 1600. If dead flat and smooth, I can do 2nd gear starts with no throttle and stock gearing. When I first got the bike, the rpm was 1100 (and that first hour ride, had a lot of flameouts, usually slowing going tight turns.)

So I just picked up my bike yesterday and the manual says idle should be 2250-2350 rpm... But at 1600 yours isn’t having any issues? That’s good to know, at least something to think about.