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Officer Mike

MX Tech AER leaf spring mid valve

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2 minutes ago, bowser said:

no haven't tried them. DS is nothing more than regular closed chamber forks with coatings and some other good changes. I have spent a lot of time testing SSS forks and I expect the DS to be very similar to them. Even the cones don't feel a lot different than SSS but offer better HS compliance. The downfall of CC forks is in slow technical riding they build up pressure and get firmer. You won't have that problem with lucky forks

OK, Thanks Bowser. All in all, are your AER's with the cap and MV about perfect now, or do other systems like the Lucky may be better? It seems that the AER's with the cap and MV really shine when pushed hard in motocross.... Great progression and excellent bottoming resistance in big hits. But maybe a bit of a compromise in the smaller bumps and slower speed regime (technical riding as you put it). Thanks again for your insight.

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As I said I love them as they are now but the kashima and sky kit will only improve them further.

I don't have any complaints with slow speed or small bumps on these but then again i'm using the enduro valving with the larger float setting

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What kind of stuff do you ride, Bowser? Fast and open or technical, tight, steep (hard enduro) stuff?

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more fast open, tight rock hopping technical doesn't do it for me

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8 hours ago, crsflps said:

Ok, thanks. Hmmm... 

I really like my lucky. I haven’t had the pleasure of trying the mid valve kit or cap on my AER yet. The lucky is more plush than stock AER. I have a GP/ Colorado hare scramble setting and it’s very good on the track as well as the offroad we see here in the CORCS series. For more legit offroad, rocks, roots and technical, I would want a valving change. But the lucky is spot on for what I asked for. 

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11 hours ago, Officer Mike said:

I really like my lucky. I haven’t had the pleasure of trying the mid valve kit or cap on my AER yet. The lucky is more plush than stock AER. I have a GP/ Colorado hare scramble setting and it’s very good on the track as well as the offroad we see here in the CORCS series. For more legit offroad, rocks, roots and technical, I would want a valving change. But the lucky is spot on for what I asked for. 

Good to hear.  Is there any area that the AER performed better than the Lucky?

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6 hours ago, Jimsair said:

Good to hear.  Is there any area that the AER performed better than the Lucky?

It has been some time since I’ve ridden them back to back. Both my AER sets are good. But for my track bike, hare scramble/gp type of offroad, I prefer the same set of lucky forks. I find myself swapping them oxen between my track bike and hs Bike. This isn’t to say that I’ve been unhappy with the AER. My AER sets are still stock. The lucky is purpose built and tuned. It should perform better than stock AER. I will prob buy that Mxt MV soon and try that. Leaving the lucky on the hs Bike and going with the plush mx setting on track bike 

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5 hours ago, Officer Mike said:

It has been some time since I’ve ridden them back to back. Both my AER sets are good. But for my track bike, hare scramble/gp type of offroad, I prefer the same set of lucky forks. I find myself swapping them oxen between my track bike and hs Bike. This isn’t to say that I’ve been unhappy with the AER. My AER sets are still stock. The lucky is purpose built and tuned. It should perform better than stock AER. I will prob buy that Mxt MV soon and try that. Leaving the lucky on the hs Bike and going with the plush mx setting on track bike 

To what extent do you change your Lucky settings when moving the forks between the two bikes? Were the Luckys initially set up for the hare scramble/go type of off-road, or motocross?

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51 minutes ago, Jimsair said:

To what extent do you change your Lucky settings when moving the forks between the two bikes? Were the Luckys initially set up for the hare scramble/go type of off-road, or motocross?

I told Jeremy that I wanted it for the Colorado CORCS series. Which has a few GPs  and faster hare scrambles. I’m still figuring it out, but I softener the compression only 1 click for my last ride. Which was 2/3 gear lots whoops and g outs. They were built for this and not For moto. I decided to try them one day on mx and ended up liking it. So they stayed on that bike for a while. Whoever called me from mx tech to tell Me they were done, said he gave me a very good “all around” setting. I would have to agree with that. I don’t think I would like my current shim stack for hard enduro.  Hope this helps 

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On 2/1/2019 at 2:46 AM, bowser said:

As I said I love them as they are now but the kashima and sky kit will only improve them further.

I don't have any complaints with slow speed or small bumps on these but then again i'm using the enduro valving with the larger float setting

I know this is an older thread, but I just picked up an 18 FC350 for moto here in the Pacific NW. I don't do any trails, and our tracks vary from fairly small, almost "supercross-ish" with lots of jumps, to Washougal and its higher speeds and faster pace. Right now my Husky is totally stock for suspension, and the AERs aren't bad, but I do notice the air fork feel in small chop, and I've blown thru the travel once or twice already on bigger hits (rollers at speed). I find it comfortable at 142 PSI and I use comp damping to manage the feel. I'm a decently fast Vet Int, 180-185 (depending on beer intake) and I'm really thinking about getting the MXT AER48-R cap and the mid valve installed, with rear shock valved to match. How's your's working for you now after what I assume is more hours? Any feedback appreciated!

 

Mike

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Mike I love them. I went out a couple of weeks ago and sone a back to back test with my cone valves as I was working out which set of forks i will keep and which I will sell. small chop/ trail plushness = both feel very much the same, AER higher in the stroke

HS hits, toots, rocks = again both very much the same, AER slight edge

Bottoming/jump landing = AER for the win, I run  140psi and are yet to bottom them fully, they are so smooth. CV's also good for bottoming but more harsh

Weight = AER by a mile

Cost = Again AER win this. With the mxtech bits they are way more cost effective than buying a set of CV forks

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14 hours ago, bowser said:

Mike I love them. I went out a couple of weeks ago and sone a back to back test with my cone valves as I was working out which set of forks i will keep and which I will sell. small chop/ trail plushness = both feel very much the same, AER higher in the stroke

HS hits, toots, rocks = again both very much the same, AER slight edge

Bottoming/jump landing = AER for the win, I run  140psi and are yet to bottom them fully, they are so smooth. CV's also good for bottoming but more harsh

Weight = AER by a mile

Cost = Again AER win this. With the mxtech bits they are way more cost effective than buying a set of CV forks

Thanks! Sounds like the route I will take then, once the wet season sets in here and I'm done riding for the winter.

Did you also have your rear shock revalved to match or ?

 

Mike

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Depends which bike I put them on, on the 500exc I have stock xplor with SKF seal head, low friction band, Kashima, DLC, Öhlins oil, bladder and revalve on the 300xc I have basically the same but no DLC. I found this worked a lot better than the trax shock

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5 hours ago, bowser said:

Depends which bike I put them on, on the 500exc I have stock xplor with SKF seal head, low friction band, Kashima, DLC, Öhlins oil, bladder and revalve on the 300xc I have basically the same but no DLC. I found this worked a lot better than the trax shock

I'm budget limited so won't get too crazy front or rear. Trying to keep it all under $1k US. No coatings for me. 

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On 1/17/2019 at 11:55 AM, bowser said:

Installed it myself. Motech provides you with shim settings (which work well).

Fork cap tools from eBay, relatively easy job

Hey bowser, do you need a rod clamp or can you just do this all by lowering the outer chamber once you unthread the fork cap? I've got the tools to do the fork caps (big wrench and special socket) but no rod clamp holder. There is a youtube video but he is using a rod clamp. I was hoping I could do this without fully disassembling the fork, can I?

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What part do they say you need a rod clamp ? Just thread on the end cap and use that to work against ?

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I'm referring to this. Honestly I haven't watched the video yet, just skipped through without sound on but could see he was using one.

 

 

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Rod clamps pretty easy to make just drill a block of aluminum same size as rod and cut it in half

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yes is better to have a clamp, or make one. There is ways around it as Mog suggested.

You have to fully strip the fork to access the mid valve

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