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Stuck CS sprocket - nut

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As the title states, I've been trying to help a friend remove the nut to replace his CS sprocket.  The bike is an 06 KLX 250.

To date:

Heat

PB Blaster overnight

3' extension 

Rear wheel locked out w/chain through rear sprocket and swing arm

Tapping nut

Impact gun 

 

Nothing is working...holy cow.  It has been removed once before according to my buddy but when...I have no idea.  I am short of ideas here.

 

Mike

 

 

 

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Mike I have fought my 2012 KLX250 twice. I don't know if riding makes it tighter or what but they are hell to get off. I don't think the heat and blaster are going to help at this point. I put mine in 1st gear, put a 3 foot cheater on the breaker bar, stand on the bike, one foot on the rear brake, and one foot on the end of the cheater. Unbelievable how tight this can get. Persistence pays off, and I always replace the seal when I take it off, as I do not want to take it off again any sooner than necessary. I had one fail the first time.

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Got it off...lots of heat and 5' breaker bar and rear sprocket chained to swing arm.  What a MF'er...ridiculous.  I explained to him the wonders of anti-seize and a torque wrench.

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On 1/8/2019 at 11:06 AM, MX813 said:

Got it off...lots of heat and 5' breaker bar and rear sprocket chained to swing arm.  What a MF'er...ridiculous.  I explained to him the wonders of anti-seize and a torque wrench.

Cool, go easy on him, I used antiseize and torqued mine correctly, but when I had to take it off again it seemed like double what I tightened it. I am curious if running the bike and direction of threads tighten it up some, I know I sometimes abuse the hell out of my chain, clutch, and rear wheel.

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Adding any anti-seize, oil, grease or any such matter to a thread means that you will have to back off the torque settings. Unless otherwise stated in your manual, all torque settings are to dry threads.

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I did...and explained that even though he is a fair weather rider the importance of being able to work on your own bike, even if it hasn't been ridden for awhile.  He hasn't changed the bearings on anything so looks like a complete bearing overhaul from top to bottom is due soon.

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2 minutes ago, ChampWazza said:

Adding any anti-seize, oil, grease or any such matter to a thread means that you will have to back off the torque settings. Unless otherwise stated in your manual, all torque settings are to dry threads.

Interesting.  I did not know that.  Been using reco'd settings per manual with an extremely light coating of anti-seize and never had a problem.  Yet.

 

knocking on wood as I am preparing my bike for Baja.

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