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Help!!! Cam chain tensioner stripped

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Posted (edited)

Over tightened cam chain tensioner and it stripped! Honda xr100. Should I just super glue bolt to case to make it stay in place? Thanks! Edit: the bolt itself is not stripped. Wherever it screws into inside the top end is stripped. from what I understand from the diagram in my clymer manual, the sole purpose of this bolt is to hold the arm in place. If it can still do that simply by being in its place inside the arm and I can secure it from popping out of the engine, the theoretically that would work, correct?

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Edited by bhers

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I can't imagine anyone is going to recommend super gluing a vital engine component like that. I'd say you're going to have to bite the bullet and buy a new one.

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Posted (edited)

Do you just need a new tensioning bolt (Part 6). Its like $6 on Rocky Mountain.  Otherwise if you stripped the threads in the cylinder you need to talk to someone to see if they can fix it or you need a new cylinder ($150) - (Part 1).  Unfortunately if you stripped the cylinder - replacing the cylinder is probably the best fix.  Not that costly and pretty easy to fix.

 

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Edited by R1peacock

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45 minutes ago, bhers said:

Should I just super glue bolt to case to make it stay in place?

You're trolling, right? If so, well done. If not... put down the wrench, please.

There are ways to fix a stripped thread, for example Helicoil. But I'm not a mechanical engineer so I don't know if you can trust one in an application like that. At this point I'd be calling a real mechanic.

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Heli coil or insert.  I would heli-coil. 15 minute job.

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1 hour ago, socalxr said:

Heli coil or insert.  I would heli-coil. 15 minute job.

The Heli coil part is simple. Getting the aluminum chips out of the engine from drilling and tapping for a heli coil isn't.  It should work if there's enough wall thickness, but you'll have to have it done with the cylinder head off the bike. The xr100 engine is simple to work on.  Lots of youtube videos on heli coils and xr100 top ends. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79IYC4L68LU&ab_channel=realfixesrealfast

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhTnwsfx11Y&ab_channel=85ccmaster

 

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Thanks for the responses! i stripped whatever part number 6 screws into. what i am trying to figure out is what part number 6 screws in to so i can fully understand the issue

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Looks like it screws in the part of the cylinder.

Watch the video. See the head bolt right in the center of the head (where the fins are cut back). Everything under that is the cylinder.  The #6 bolt in in that part.

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Posted (edited)

The rough cam tensioner adjustment bolt is screwed into the Cylinder.  So Part 6 goes into Part 1 (pictured above).  If you can’t fix the thread you will need to purchase a new cylinder, gaskets, etc.   Not difficult to fix but a bit of money and a few hours of work.  You will need to disassemble the top half to attempt the thread fix to make sure any metal shavings don’t get into the engine.  What year is your XR? I searched OEM parts on Rocky Mountain and it looked like you could still get the cylinder for $150.00.  What’s the cost for the heli-coil kit? ($30ish)....

RP

Edited by R1peacock

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Posted (edited)

Rocky Mountain and Partszilla show all the needed parts available.  I feel your pain - a month ago a simple oil change on my son’s KLX140L resulted in a cracked LH case when the drain plug was tightened a bit too much.  Ive changed oil in lawn mowers, motorcycles, cars, trucks, etc. for 30 years and do it the same way every time (finger tight and then just a bit more with a small socket wrench) well this time it cracked the case around the plug opening.   I called the dealer and he wanted $900-$1200 in labor alone w/o parts.  The best I could find was a small local shop that quoted me $750-$900 for labor w/o parts.

I purchased a service manual and all the parts required (case, gaskets, o-rings, seals and bearings) for under $200.  It took me about 15 hours over 4 days during the Christmas break to take the engine off the frame, dissemble the engine, swap out the new parts, assemble the engine and put it back on the frame.   It sucks but at least I know it was done right.  Don’t JB weld your bolt or fix it half ass.  Bite the bullet and spend the $150-$175 in parts and fix it right.  In a month you will forget all about it - until you adjust the cam chain again.....

Plenty of videos online and Im sure CyclePedia has an online step by step manual if you don’t already have one.  There really isnt that much to it - just follow the steps in the manual.  You should be able to leave the engine on the frame to replace the cylinder.  

 

RP

 

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Edited by R1peacock

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Peacock, You know you just scared the bejesus out of him with those pictures right!


That was a complete engine tear down I had to do to install a new crankcase. It scared me as well but to save $1200 it was worth a shot. That’s the most technical repair I’ve ever done. To replace the cylinder is not as complex and it should be able to be done with the engine on the frame. Remove the plastics, seat and gas tank and go at it. From there it’s just a matter of taking the top head off to get to the cylinder. Just follow the service manual. There are so many videos about engine repair on YouTube anyone can do it.

Keep in touch if you have any questions. I just took my son’s engine completely apart so it’s all fresh in my head. Take your time and it will be easy - I was surprised how well my son’s rebuild went — very rewarding when you finally push the start button and hear the engine.

RP

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If you are not sure of you mechanical ability, just pull the motor and take it to a shop.  If you've never done it before, but want to try, buy a manual and read that section a few times.  You are going to have to buy a helicoil kit.  It should come with a drill, tap, tool, and helicoils.  You will also need a base gasket and head gasket.  Also watch videos on helicoils.  

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