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mr_extreme112

KYB 48 OC Husqvarna Revalve

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Posted (edited)

Hello, i want to revalve the above mentioned fork myself.

They feel quiet weired, riding low in the stroke and deflecting of big hits. There is also quiet a bit of headshake when accelerating over braking bumps. I mostly ride on slow MX tracks with very hard packed ground, nothing like real MX. I also do quiet a bit of cross country riding. I weigh about 80kg naked and 190cm in hight (sorry for metric units :D ). Anybody got some suggestions?

Here are the stock stacks, and yes they look that weired, i quadruple checked as i couldnt belive it myself:

BV
Piston
9x 24x0,12
22x0,15
18x0,12
20x0,15
18x0,15
16x0,15
14x0,15
13x0,15
12x0,15

MV
10x0,3
10x0,3
12x0,12
14x0,12
16x0,12
18x0,12
20x0,12
22x0,12
3x 24x0,12
-PISTON-
7x 23x0,12
14x0,12
22x0,12
20x0,12
18x0,12
16x0,12
14x0,12
12x0,12
9x0,2
9x0,2

 

BTW: One other thing, if i seat the new fork bushings fully they are much to tight, if i put in the circlip and give it a little "pull" as i would seperating them they are fine, maybe a little tighter as the totaly shot ones that were in there. did anyone have this problem? On my last bikes this was not the case.

Edited by mr_extreme112

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That's the midvalve float ?

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I forgot to check, will be the first thing tomorrow after work. Have you ever seen such a strange BV stack? Or did they assemble it wrong?

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I forgot to check, will be the first thing tomorrow after work. Have you ever seen such a strange BV stack? Or did they assemble it wrong?
Husky did odd things, what year is it ?

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Its out of a 2012 TE310, european model if that matters. I saw someone post their stock stack out of the same model, didnt seem that odd, relatively normal. I think this was also on TT but i have to check if i have time.

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Maybe go back to STD and work from that ?

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Maybe go back to STD and work from that ?
Im going to look into that, most people seem to have different settings stock wich is quiet weired. Dont know what "STD" is on these forks. Just that every other stack looks more normal.
Its basically the same fork that came on ~04 YZ's, people seem to drill the BV ports from 3 to 3.5mm because they restrict flow, what do you think? They really look quiet small. While im in there this qould probably be a nice mod.

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Yes the ports are restrictive ,drilling them won't hurt

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I got some time to disassemble the other fork leg, they assembled the BV stack wrong. On this side the 18x and 22x shim are the other way around, like you would expect. The MV has ~0.65mm of float (0,73 calculated, dont know whats more relevant). Also i checked the BV ports, they seem to already have 3.5mm instead of 3mm on the old YZ fork.

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0.65 sounds stiff for that type of fork and that base valve ?

My cr 125 had 1.5mm lift and 0.1 shims on base valve

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Thats what i heard, thought thats a bit tight for a OC fork too. They have lager BV ports than the OC KYB out of the early YZ´s, but still... Do you have an idea what i could try next? I dont want them too soft, as i was using most of the travel, which is weired now that i see the setting. Honestly im confused right now on what to think :D I definately think i need to go a little softer on rebound to reduce the packing on repeated hits, but compression... not sure

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What springs and air gap ?

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I tried a lot of different airgaps, wasnt happy with any of them. I think its more of a valving problem. Stock is 115mm, but i tried 110-130. Springs are 4,6.

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We have an odd situation where the springs and air gap look reasonable , the valving looks stiff yet the forks dive and deflect

If we soften the valving it will dive more

What rear sags do you have ?

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We have an odd situation where the springs and air gap look reasonable , the valving looks stiff yet the forks dive and deflect

If we soften the valving it will dive more

What rear sags do you have ?
Tried 100-110, static sag is perfect to. I did a bit of revalving in the past, always worked quiet well but im really confused in this case. Its a realtively rare bike too, so not a lot of people have experience with it, could be weired geometry but i dont know. I would just try something but not even sure where to start. I would definately speed up the rebound, maybe one less faceshim on rebound to get them to return faster and open up the float by removing one of the 9mm shims on the MV? Not sure about the BV though..

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You may compare the midvalve stack with the one of a pre-2007 KTM WP fork with the 28 mm cartridge or some of the yams YZF/WRF that had the 28mm OC-cartridge.

jeanjean

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This is a kxf 250 fork from that era

Just for comparison

It used a bleed shim on the mid which I don't understand when you have a decent float Screenshot_20190110-194252.jpeg

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This is a kxf 250 fork from that era

Just for comparison

It used a bleed shim on the mid which I don't understand when you have a decent float Screenshot_20190110-194252.thumb.jpeg.b794864efb29a554deb9beb55cc7445b.jpeg
Im not a fan of bleed shims, but other than that the valving actually looks quiet similar, maybe a little softer wich is weired? Interesting.

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